jfsn06

Sorry to hear about your issues. It’s getting to be really hard to trust shops these days not only about honesty, but also quality of work.

On a side note, if you still have issues with you AOS, I would venture to check out the o-rings on the coolant line connections. They are o-ring -AN fittings. It’s possible that the o-rings weren’t lubed when they were tightening them. Also maybe you already know l, but just in case, tighten them snug then turn 1-1 1/2 extra flat.

Yea it's really hard especially with the yellow vs gold. Really wish we had all the cool stuff japan offered.

Wow, I didn't know the pre-facelift mirrors had so many options! Very cool!

 

Trying to figure out which color some of these actually are is pretty tricky, considering a lot of these eBay sellers have bright blue or red backgrounds and completely throw off the colors of the lenses.

This week has been slow, so not really much to update. I have the motor pretty much sealed up except the oil pan area. I installed the oil pump yesterday, let the sealant cure and today, I was able to confirm that it picks up oil from the oil pickup. I guess the factory packed the rotors really well. I'm currently waiting on the 08+ WRX oil filter pickup and high flow water-pump with two nipples for the oil exchanger delete. I'll be running an oil cooler setup once the motor is broken in. Once those parts are in, I can prime the motor to make sure that oil gets to the places it needs to. The reason for not sealing the oil pan is i'd like to verify that oil squirts out from the crank journals and rods. Also some more parts came in today: AEM 340lph fuel pump, AEM wideband, Mishimoto oil cooler, Turbosmart BPV, IAG phenolic spacers and 18qt. of Motul break-in oil.

On a sidenote, I should be using this time to finish wiring up the Tein EDFC ActivePro since I got the Tein Flex Zs from the sedan installed on the wagon.

For those doing an oil exchanger delete and are interested in the part numbers, here they are:

Water pump (cast impeller) 2 nipples:2111AA065

Oil Filter pickup:15018AA050

doh....gkinslow you have me confused about the ones I bought. They could be purple or blue depending on the lighting.

yup they are the purple ones. The black cover is probably throwing off the color. I recently sold the blue ones and somac is correct in that the blue ones are the blue and the teal. I have the purple myself. I had yellow ones too but they're not really that yellow in person so I sold them. These were the color choices for the pre-facelift:

SAA3050200HN: Yellow

SAA3050200GL: Green/Teal

SAA3050200UL: Red

SAA3050200TE: Tinted Silver

SAA3050200PM: Purple

SAA3050200IU: Blue

SAA3050200GH: Gold

That is me right now.

Posted more on the forum in last 3 days than in last 2 years. Anxious to get the wagon back. Added the ferrari pic to the first page.

This post is for those of you that have the JDM wagon powered folding rear seats and have yet to wire it to the JDM rear cargo switch

I don't know how complete everyone's JDM rear seats are but to make this work you will need:

-JDM rear folding switch(located on the upper part of the JDM rear cargo side panels

-JDM rear seats(or at least the upper portion) which has the release motors

-JDM upper rear seat hinges(these hinges have a really beefy spring that force the upper part of the rear seats to fold down when they are unlatched. Without these springs, even if you wire the release motors, the upper seat will not fold.

So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red.

I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground.

Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down.

In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this:

12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground

No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off.

The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.

So I took a look at the wiring today for the powered upper seat release/folding and I was able to figure out how to make it work. I don't know if SOJ used the same colors on all the wiring but mine was Black and Red.

I temporarily unpinned the harness on one side on the folding rear seats and extended the wires so I could connect it to an extra battery I had. The wiring is pretty simple: Red is power and Black is ground.

Basically, the release motor has constant 12v power. When the ground is connected, the circuit gets completed and allows the release motor to do its thing. What makes the seat fold down are the heavy duty springs on the hinges where the upper seat is bolted down.

In terms of wiring the the switch on the cargo panels, the routing will look like this:

12v power -> red wire on upper seat harness -> black wire on upper seat harness extended to 1st wire on rear switch on cargo panel -> 2nd wire on rear switch on cargo panel connected to ground or any common ground

No relay is needed and the power wire to the release motor just needs to be tapped to a constant 12v+ source so that the function can be used even when the car is off.

The switch itself is just a glorified toggle switch so that the ground circuit can be completed. Let me know if you have any questions.

I noticed the same thing. I had to remove one of the vertical “ribs” and some of the padding. Once those are on you’ll notice that USDM floor panels don’t fit. Arnold, aka valleylegacy, also got the rear seat release buttons working on those panels. I have the harness connection but they need a relay to work correctly and wiring ain’t my thing.

I have the matching grey alcantara armrests if you're interested. Beautiful wagon btw!

Finally picked up my new to me seats! JDM Spec C Recaro driver seat and a Tuned by STI wagon set to finish it off. Its going to look great. The seats will take some work to make everything function as it should. Also got some new rebuilt and painted brembo calipers and suspension bits to add on the winter build. Lots of projects so little work time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hoping that it’s not too late of a post but if you want to retain the SRS and side airbags, this is my recommendation. I used the non SRS pieces at first but seeing how easy they can pop off i’d be scared to see what happens when a side airbag deploys. But as long as you run on no airbags, then that shouldn’t be a concern. Check my post

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5870227&postcount=666

Wagon sat so long, that I started buying parts for it:

s402 black interior - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/seattle-wa-jdm-tb-sti-wagon-black-plastics-264012.html?t=264012

 

saving pics from post

 

TB STI black plastics for the wagon- C & D pillars.

 

33-58605 Upper rear gate trim- $90 Shipped

 

33-00218 D Pillar Upper - $90 Shipped

 

33-82361- C Pillar Upper $140 Shipped

 

"C-Pillar Lower" is really "D-Pillar Upper"

Don't know if anyone else does this when sealing the front cam caps, but i've found that it helps keep the oil passages from getting clogged from too much sealant. I've done this on 10 motors now and not one has ever leaked.

I tape up around the dowel alignment pin. There's a small space next to the dowel to allow just the right amount of sealant without it flowing to the oil passage

Twinning! The seats are so awesome! Actually, the first pair I had were like WRX USA's. It had the grey inserts and white stitching. But it really bugged me because it didn't really match the rear seats the bolsters were really beat up. At first to try and offset it, I bought a grey alcantara center console lid from the one of the JDM TBSTI but it still didn't flow well(its for sale btw). I was browsing on crooober for some parts for my BRZ and I ran across it. Before that time, I didn't even know they had the black insert red stitching. Even better that it was cheaper, shipping was cheaper and it was in better condition. Definitely one of my fav mods in the car.

I'm really hoping so. I don't know which trans to get. I wanna say I want the longer Forester STI gearing but at the same time i don't know how the power band will be affected. Also I need to save up for the biggest BBK. I think the power this car will put out might just be too much for me. The wagon was suppose to replace my BRZ as the DD, but now its just all out. I guess the BRZ is just a better daily anyway:p

I'll keep everyone posted if I get any other info. I'm trying to ask my friend in Japan to see if he can get me the JDM wiring diagram. I really wish we had all these options.

I thought I had the only black/red stitching Tuned by STI seats in States. Guess that isn’t true anymore. I need to figure out those rear buttons as well. Six speed in the future? I’d highly recommend it.

So update, I spent my weekend putting together the short-block together. I had a small hiccup because the machine shop forgot to put the alignment dowels on the block and I couldn't align the head gasket and the head. Luckily, a nearby dealership had them in stock and I was able to get the dowels the next day.

For those that might be curious, the motor is a full build.

Bottom End:

-Wiseco Forged Pistons 99.5 8.9:1 Compression Ratio

-Manley H-Beam Rods

-Polished and balanced STI Crank

-King Bearing

-Total Seal Rings

-Line-bored block

-ARP headstuds/case-half bolts/rod bolts

-11mm STI Oil Pump

Heads:

-GSC S2 Cams 272/272

-GSC Beehive Springs w/Titanium Retainers

-GSC Brass Valve Guides

-Supertech Nitrided Intake Valves 36mm

-Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves 32mm

-Port and polish

-5 angle valve job

We're gonna try to go for an 8000rpm build, which is why we chose the 272 cams. On the other end of the spectrum we don't want the power band to shift too much to the left so we stayed with regular sized valves and upped the compression a little bit. Hopefully my choice of the 1.5xtr 10cm2 will be a good pairing and allow a pretty decent spool-up and still hold till redline. Well, I hope at least.

Here's a view of those beehive springs and titanium retainers

Thanks madrig! your build has been one of my inspirations.

nice built !

Start a build thread too! I'll start compiling a parts list once I've started putting them in the car. I've been so pre-occupied with my short block build and its taking all my time lol. I've been trying to be really meticulous about the motor since there's so many parts being thrown on there and I can't afford a small mistake.

On a side note, I've wanted the USDM version of the gauge pack but its so hard to come by, and when it does, its sometimes not complete or the seller is asking an arm and limb for it. I got lucky purchasing it from Japan at 3/4 the retail cost and it was complete will all the harness and even the single DIN cubby trim.

Nice, looks like quite the stockpile of parts. You should list them out in the first post. Also not sure if you knew this but there is a USDM/left hand drive version of the STI gauge pack where they're angled to the left and the STI symbol is in the bottom right corner. Impressive none-the-less.

 

Reminds me that I should start a build thread. I've compiled all pictures I have so far into a folder but nothing else.

I was looking at the wiring and it seems like the switch only has two wires. I'm gonna take a wild guess that one is power and one connects to the actual release motors on the rear seats, which would mean that the 2nd wire coming from the seats is ground. Or it could be reversed and power goes straight to the seats and the switch completes the ground. Hopefully once I'm done with the short block i'll have some time to get a multimeter and see how things are wired up.

I noticed the same thing. I had to remove one of the vertical “ribs” and some of the padding. Once those are on you’ll notice that USDM floor panels don’t fit. Arnold, aka valleylegacy, also got the rear seat release buttons working on those panels. I have the harness connection but they need a relay to work correctly and wiring ain’t my thing.

I've been hoarding engine parts for the last 5 months and I think i'm finally ready to start building the engine tonight. The heads and the block finally came back from the machine shop and they look so pretty.

I've got my workbench all nice and organized