waynieRS

Ill have to see if i can steal the car for a bit and grab a video. Its a very different sound than yours was and it wasn't consistent. It was a very loud almost knocking sound under part load.

good old long screw driver as a stethoscope will be your weapon of choice

I love that someone else is putting as much time into their 3.0R as I have. Sadly I went through the whole effort of doing the timing chain and I still have a horrendous rattle while the car is part load at low RPM. Im starting to think it could be the cam adjustment solenoids sticking or an oil pump/pressure issue.

i think the cam solenoids would throw up a code as mine sometimes throws up miss fire on 2 4 6 so im guessing the solenoids on mine need a clean

Thanks WaynieRS and nevets27, I suspect both of you may be right.

 

WaynieRS, I decided to take on the job because of an odd set of circumstances with my particular dealership. They did the airbag recall but damaged some interior pieces which are no longer available. So I had a decent sized credit and decided to put it towards the complete timing chain job (all OEM parts to boot). I'll post pictures as I do it but basically for all of the parts including an OEM water pump and all guides, bolts, radiator hoses etc. it was ~$375 compared to almost $2000 retail.

 

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Finally got going on this again and I decided to pull the valve covers to measure the valve clearances. I don't know how people could possibly pull the covers without jacking the engine up but well done to those people! In my case I had to put some wood under the engine mount. Bonus is while undoing the engine mounts, pitch stop in particular, I think I found what was causing my knocking when the engine rocked back and forth.

 

In this picture I'm putting very minimal amount of force and the bushing is already compressing.

 

 

 

Now for the possible major problem. For some reason, one entire bank of valves is out of clearance (passenger exhaust side). This one has me puzzled as all of my googling shows that usually with something catastrophic it's the whole cylinder head that has issues (not just the exhaust side of one head). Other guys have a couple of clearance issues on random valves but not every single one all in a line. The opinion so far seems to be "just leave it" as it's better loose than tight especially for the amount of kilometereage (mileage) this car has (251k kms). If this car didn't have the stupid buckets and the rear timing chain cover then I'd just go ahead and do them but it's a lot of extra work. The valve ticking noise existed ever since we bought it @~180k kms and hasn't gotten worse. What are your thoughts on the measurements? You can hear the ticking in the first video I posted.

 

well mate how did you get on ?

They are indeed hydraulic but they still have clearances to check/measure between the cam lobes and the buckets. The link you posted I believe is for older style engines that actually have shims (not buckets) so unfortunately that won't work.

 

Thanks for the link to the service manual and I can confirm that's the one I'm using. You can even see the "front" of the page in my measurement picture .

 

With my car being @251k kms I decided not take anything further apart. Looser is better and I'll see what happens I suppose. It has been like this for a 3rd of it's life so I'll cross my fingers it'll last a while longer.

good stuff . box her up and have the cam rolling for the first turn over ... good luck

Thanks WaynieRS and nevets27, I suspect both of you may be right.

 

WaynieRS, I decided to take on the job because of an odd set of circumstances with my particular dealership. They did the airbag recall but damaged some interior pieces which are no longer available. So I had a decent sized credit and decided to put it towards the complete timing chain job (all OEM parts to boot). I'll post pictures as I do it but basically for all of the parts including an OEM water pump and all guides, bolts, radiator hoses etc. it was ~$375 compared to almost $2000 retail.

 

****************************

 

Finally got going on this again and I decided to pull the valve covers to measure the valve clearances. I don't know how people could possibly pull the covers without jacking the engine up but well done to those people! In my case I had to put some wood under the engine mount. Bonus is while undoing the engine mounts, pitch stop in particular, I think I found what was causing my knocking when the engine rocked back and forth.

 

In this picture I'm putting very minimal amount of force and the bushing is already compressing.

 

 

 

Now for the possible major problem. For some reason, one entire bank of valves is out of clearance (passenger exhaust side). This one has me puzzled as all of my googling shows that usually with something catastrophic it's the whole cylinder head that has issues (not just the exhaust side of one head). Other guys have a couple of clearance issues on random valves but not every single one all in a line. The opinion so far seems to be "just leave it" as it's better loose than tight especially for the amount of kilometereage (mileage) this car has (251k kms). If this car didn't have the stupid buckets and the rear timing chain cover then I'd just go ahead and do them but it's a lot of extra work. The valve ticking noise existed ever since we bought it @~180k kms and hasn't gotten worse. What are your thoughts on the measurements? You can hear the ticking in the first video I posted.

 

 

have a read of this mate ... they are hydraulic by the sound of it ... and there is a set way to check

http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php?/topic/137818-30r-spec-b-valves-calibration/

I linked the image from my FB account.

-K

how do i go about linking fb accounts with this account ?