jaylew

I had to replace my mode actuator, (internal to the actuator) it wore through the copper traces so it couldn't make up its mind as to what position it wanted to be in at times, "coffee percolating noise". The mode actuator and the driver side temp mix are the hardest to get to. The Passenger temp mix is easiest along with the recirculate / fresh air actuator. I only did the mode actuator because it was the only one acting up. For 2005, the driver temp mix actuator is discontinued so I am banking on that never going bad or at least being able to find some ebay seller that might have one if that ever needs to be done

Ripped out the carpet. Replaced the faulty A/C mode actuator..what a PITA. The one picture shows the angle to most easily get at the top bracket screw with a long screwdriver (blue handle for reference). The back most one requires a phillips socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. This weekend is all about the hard lines and trying to finish up making them. At a minimum if the middle lines can be replaced I will be happy

1) Just realized the title to the thread is misspelled, hope that isn't indicative of my work! 2) A lot has been done. The Koni front shocks are built after the housings were completely stripped to metal and powder coated. New top hats and this car will ride brand new. I decided to paint the front knuckles since I was already so far down the rabbit hole and had every rear suspension link blasted and painted. New wheel bearings in all 4 corners to boot. While I had the brake calipers off, I cleaned them and painted them. Rebuilt with OE rebuild kits. I am replacing the guide pins that use the bushings with the non-bushed guide pin, so all calipers will have normal guide pins and binding bushings will never be a problem. I highly recommend the OE rebuild kits. I have used centric parts in the past to only have the boots cracked within a year. OE lasts at least 10+ years of salt belt conditions. Next time I will post pics of steering rack work, as energy suspension bushings are now installed, and OE inner tie rods are going on with Super Pro roll center correction outer tie rods and ball joints are going on to account for the lowering springs. I swear if the engine gives out after all this work to the chassis...I guess I'll be building that. Goal to have the car back on the road by 4/1...ish Whats Left (simplified): -finish NiCopp hardlines -remove rest of interior - Done 4/3/19 -install sound deadening -install new tie rods - Done 4/3/19 -patch rust hole in rear wheel arch -install gas tank -install rear subframe -install suspension -swap black leather cover of '08 seats to frame of '05 tan seats (cause thank you first model year nonsense) -install rest of black leather interior Alignment and drive like hell

3/12/19 - Update - everything has been thrown out nothing left

Ok thank you for the help. In actually assembling the shocks with springs, i found the spacer not needed. It pushed the top hat too high and the bearing had nothing to locate on for it's I.D.

Thank you, I think i was able to figure it out just trying to put it together. I am attaching pictures to better help explain what I am questioning the use of It is the silver spacer looking thing next to the shock in one picture and slipped on it in the other

hey so i have the koni's assembled with swift springs for the rear. I just finished painting the front shock housings, and am getting ready to assemble the fronts. I was reading through the directions and noticed that my front koni's came with a spacer of sorts. I do not see that spacer (like a super thick washer (about 10mm thick) fits on the stepped portion of the shock where the top spring perch goes). Just wondering what the order of operation is or if the spacer washer is not needed (kind of like the cylindrical shim for the insert to front shock housing). Sorry if this has been asked, but i am super busy right now and don't have time to search through this whole thread. If it has been asked already could someone please point me there? Thank you

So, been pissing off the girlfriend with how long this project is taking, but ski season does slow progress down a bit. All the rear suspension links have been media blasted clean of all rust, then coated in POR-15. I then pressed in ALL NEW bushings. I am surprised with how robust the POR-15 is while handling everything to press in the bushings. I also painted the fuel filler neck since that is not rusted and out. Only the evap line brackets were rusted but they are isolated from the steal lines by rubber that I don't feel the need to replace. Now the fuel filler neck is future proofed. I cut the lip on the rear brake dust shields before painting them, to future proof against any big brake upgrades if they should happen. I am debating on lightly buffing it all with some sand paper, then finishing it off with raptor liner....please tell me if that is overkill or the POR-15 is enough. I feel it might be overkill on the cast iron parts at least but I am so far down the rabbit hole already. I assembled the rear shocks and am excited to have it all back on the car. The front shocks have been cut for the Koni inserts. They have been media blasted and are awaiting paint before the front shocks can be assembled. I started bending up some of the hard brake lines that are getting replaced. Both the lines by the gas tank and the hard lines that bolt to the trailing arm. Next up is ripping out the interior to then get to the center lines. The part of me that is getting tired of this job, says just add a coupler to the steal center lines, but I already have the NiCopp to replace the center lines I might as well not be lazy and just do it.

Yeah fuel tank is looking pretty good. I will be fixing some of the rusty brackets and cutting a one corner of the pinched metal that has rust, then undercoating it. If the gas tank were to go and need replacing in 50-100k I honestly wouldn't have a problem doing it. after this project that is a day job honestly. I have it all down to a science now. And so you're saying that really just a thick-ish metal plate bolted in with the sway bar bracket is good enough?

I have started the long process removing bushings from the suspension components and subframe. Basically I burned everything, but really had to heat up the inner portion of all the bushings that the bolt goes through to the point that it could just be just pushed out. Remote areas are advised when doing this cause it will stink up the neighborhood and make a mess. I have only just started the slow task of cutting out the outer races of the bushings but being careful not to cut the subframe or suspension links. least fun portion of this whole winter project next to prepping the car for paint.

Well I took the dive now really am committed to going NiCopp lines. I cut the rear lines to make it easier to remove and then pull the center lines into the car for when I raptor lined the under body. I made sure to mark the center line that leads to the rear right side before cutting so that when I make the new lines I can trace things.

So, This past week has been a lot of work. I spent the whole time prepping the under side of the car for raptor liner. I wire wheeled a lot of rusty spots to 'clean' them up. I then painted anything that was even slightly rusty with POR-15. After that cured I then when at it with Raptor Liner...The entire time I was wishing I had the car on a chassis rotisserie or a lift. NOT fun when I can only jack the car up about 24 inches or so. The worst of the rust was at those crapy heat shields by the mufflers. I do not get the point of them, as I can't imagine the mufflers getting that hot. I will not be reinstalling them, that is for sure. Anyway a little more than about 1.5 coats (i was applying the first coat kinda heavy) done. I am going to go back in and do some touch up with a foam brush tomorrow. For the most part I am very pleased with the outcome thus far. Next I turn my attention to finding every plastic piece I broke that holds hoses near the subframe. Then tackle the bushings and POR-15 the subrame. Hopefully this helps the car last a lot longer now (it better)

Thanks for the suggestion on polish / clearing.

sorry I should have added the word braided. For the flex lines. I will use NiCopp for the hard lines off your suggestion in my other thread!

I will use this as my posting point for updates on progress. This project started life as the complicated job of replacing all bushings in the rear subframe and maybe painting the subframe. Also I am going to weld on reinforcing plates for the sway bar mounts (cheaper than buying) Then I thought well if I am going to have new bushings in the rear, it might be work it to update the rest of the suspension. So I am installing koni shocks and swift springs when this is all done. Then it I thought well while the subrame is out I might truck bed liner the under body since from what I could tell, its mint for 236k miles and 13 years old. If I am doing the work on the subframe and putting the money in, I might as well make sure the shell lasts If I am going to truck bed liner the body then I am going to drop the gas tank because I am there and can and also then access the entire under body. Once the tank was out, it revealed the classic rusty brake lines that were not fixed by subarus magic wax and now I am being denied new lines, so adding to the project list is making new center and rear brake lines out of NiCopp. While removing the side skirts and rear wheel well liners, revealed rust by the passenger door. Fun. Doesn't look too bad (I have had a forearm sized hole in the strut tower of my 96 outback so this is nothing) also the fact that is is covered up once fixed is great cause it doesn't have to look pretty. Oh and for fun on top of all of this, I was able to coincidentally procure the entire black leather wagon interior in GT trim from the junk yard. So that is going in to replace the worn out Tan leather interior. The A/C mode servo has been just replaced because it was failing (making the coffee percolating sound i.e worn out contacts) Also while I am replacing the door panels I will be replacing the drivers outside door handle. For some reason when I got the car 30k ago, it had one black (unpainted) so I have a color mating handle from the junk yard. When removing the front struts control arms cause why not paint those too, the control arm supports at the fire wall side are rusting and flaking...time for junk yard replacements or new ones. Now I am on the verge of throwing all caution to the wind and going for SS braided brake lines to replace the flex lines to the calipers. I already have new rear wheel bearings and might get new front. Both inner tie rods are a bit worn so they'll be replaced. I am debating on getting the energy suspension steering rack bushings. If I remember anything else I have done I will add it. Otherwise I will update this as I go along. This is more for my own documentation so if anyone else is interested that is just a perk! So ..... I am looking forward to the new task to add the growing list ***As a note I do not know why some of my pictures are posting upside down. When opened in another window/tab the image rotates correctly

Ok, after continuing work on the car which has gone from a simple 1 month project to a full on winter project. I looked at the routing of the center brake lines and I want to slap the engineer that decided to place the through point at the fire wall. That will be fun to fish out without removing the fan box. I will have to investigate further but if anyone has suggestions for future me when tackling this as to fire wall routing it would be appreciated haha!

Just got a call back from a SOA customer service manager and was told the same thing, that my car is old and too high mileage. Sad to see this is the way they treat the last good Subaru wagon in America. I'm full nicopp train now. I'll keep this update on how that goes

Ok so after one quick phone call with SOA, I was pretty much shut down and told even if I bring my car to a dealership that I would be denied due to the fact that the car was 'taken care of' already and has 236k miles. I am waiting for a supervisor to call me tomorrow to try and escalate this party. Preparing for the worst and totally being shut down a last ditch effort might be to talk to a local dealership in person (though likely futile) In any event a brake line flare tool is not bad ($30 Flare tool) I am just not sure what dimensions brake line and and threaded nuts are needed. Can anyone help so I can start shopping to make my own brakes. If I can get the parts (not including tool) for less then the cost of OE brake lines ($240) then I am sold and SOA can suck my..... Thanks for the help!!! I swear I will pay it forward

Yeah I am going to give them a call today and see what they can do. If they are willing to send me new brake lines then sweet! I will likely add a layer of paint to the whole line or to the common areas before installing. I looked up the price and OE from the discount dealership up in washington it would be $150 for the center and $80 for the rear. I will look into the copper-nickle if SOA is being that bitchy. I have no problem taking it to a dealership but logically it makes sense for me to do it since I already have everything out of the way and I am about to rip out my interior anyway. Either way this is going to be replaced. Max, you give me hope to persist and be as annoying as possible while on the phone with SOA about this Thank you for all of the help!! I'll keep you posted on what happens

So, You know the rusty brake recall for the rear brake line coupler...well I had my car "addressed" when I had the airbag replaced. They just did the wax job (which was applied by some blind mechanic just shooting wherever) So fast forward to today when I am hauling over the car (mostly the rear suspension). I am swapping out the tan interior for black and truck bed lining the under body. So I have the rear subframe out and just dropped the gas tank. By doing this work I just got a new good look at the brake line coupler. (see picture). Looks kinda messed. I want to replace it but what is the likelihood SOA is willing to just send me new center and rear brake lines for me to install. The car is obviously in no shape to go to a dealership to have the part replaced there and if I am already going to have the interior torn up, that is half the battle. Just looking for thoughts, bets, comments. Thanks

Do you know which actuator you bought that is different? Motor-mix-driver 72131AG12A ---- 05 (no longer available) 72131AG27A ---- 05-09 Motor-mix-passenger 72131AG11A ----- 05 72131AG26A ----- 05-09 Motor-mode-select 72131AG09A ---- 05 72131AG24A ---- 05-09 Motor-recirculate 72131AG08A ---- 05 72131AG23A ---- 05-09

I'm leaning towards buying the 24A. Parts.com says both part numbers fit but tech services says only the 09A does for my 05. There's a $20 difference (doesn't bother me) I am wondering what the difference is. Part of me wants to buy both and open them up, but at the same time I don't want to do that haha

Hey guys, I want to replace the same mode actuator. Likely doesn't work due to the common traces being worn out. My question for the general public is the difference between the two part numbers 72131AG24A (says applicable for 2005 - 2009) and 72131AG09A (says applicable for 2005 only) is there a known difference (like the trace material or actuation stopping points) and has either worked for people that have replaced the unit? I am getting unclear responses from subaru tech services when i call them

It has a 1 amp and 2 amp port. The 2 amp is what most phones and tablets use, I haven't seen a mobile device charge at 3 amp before. The 1 amp I find perfect for my iPod, but still charges a phone (obviously not as fast as the 2 amp port) It's just super convenient because it gets rid of the need for large charging adapters and is super cheap

I bought one of these and put it in my '96 OBW and absolutely love it!! I plan on put in the LGT. Not sure how much cutting of plastic I'll have to do since I plan on putting where the lighter / ash tray is. It is slightly larger in diameter but so worth the work to make it fit. No need for an adapter anymore! And I know that no cutting would need to be done if it is used to replace the port in the arm rest. http://www.eachbuyer.com/car-truck-cigarette-lighter-adaptor-dual-usb-charger-power-plug-socket-12v-diy-p318030.html