Ashtone

38 minutes ago, alex0856 said:

I have wanted one for a long time but you can't buy them new anymore unfortunately. I'll probably end up going aftermarket at some point.

Try LKQ. In case you’re not familiar, they are a nationwide auto recycler. I work at a body shop, and we get parts from them daily. With the number of these cars sold, I’m sure there’s plenty of them out there.

11 hours ago, alex0856 said:

I recommend the vacuum pump method. I've also used the cheap one man bleeder kit. I vacuumed the living hell out of my lines when I did my flush and my car brakes like it was new.

Did you use a Mighty Vac hand sqeezed pump, or something powered?

My Mighty Vac takes a lot of squeezing to completely flush the lines.

On 4/8/2024 at 4:08 PM, Bobsyouruncl said:

Replaced my brake lines with SS lines and did a full fluid flush. 

Did you use a vacuum pump, or the two man “pump the pedal” method?

22 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Is this you?
https://carsandbids.com/auctions/KZJvYXLA/2005-subaru-legacy-25-gt-wagon

 

Probably not, since it’s a no reserve auction, so will sell no matter the final price. Tehspud said “if it doesn’t get much traction I’ll put it up on FB as well. ”

@infosecdad:

I see we have the same exhaust…

It came on the car when I purchased it. I paid extra since the P.O. claimed he spent a lot to get the tips adjusted to match the bumper. I agree it is “loud” in the low frequencies at idle, and sounds good (not droning) at highway speeds.

I asked my neighbor about it, since I back out of my garage at 6:30am and his (usually open) bedroom windows are 100 feet away. He said he can hear the “low rumble”, but it’s not an issue. Which is fair, since I hear his Corvette when he fires it up.

Why does everyone remove their engine cover? I would think it was designed to make a tighter seal for the TMIC to receive cooler outside air though the hood scoop. 
I know that an open air filter element inside the engine compartment draws hot air, which defeats the purpose (unless you provide a heat baffle and a cold air source). Isn’t this engine cover seal the same thing? If it’s not there, isn’t the top mount intercooler getting a lot of hot air from the engine?
Maybe aftermarket TMIC’s are larger than oem IC’s so it won’t fit, but why take it out if you’re running the stock IC?

Hi. Still have the Avo tmic?

@KZJonny; @SubOperator:

thanks. Makes perfect sense. I thought the odometer was having an issue.

Has anyone experienced this display on the trip odometer?

When it happens, it always says the same thing.: ILL.5.

no other symptoms when it happens, and it goes away only to return days or weeks later.

8 hours ago, 310Z said:

I live in the mountains north of Tahoe so snow and ice are a way of life even in CA we do see road salt. But I am trying to protect this car and not drive it when the salt is on the road.

Find a car wash that has a chassis wash that you drive over. I do this as often as necessary when the highways are treated. Colorado uses mag chloride which isn’t as corrosive as salt, but it leaves a white residue.

If you can buy a wash book or other discount method, it gets cheaper.

my wash is $10.00 a shot with the cassis spray.

My dash was starting to feel sticky. I heard about this stuff in a post here, so I tried it.
More than a year now, and the stickiness hasn’t come back. 

Chemical Guys VRP.

On 1/12/2024 at 1:04 PM, Ashtone said:

@alex0856

when I receive them next week, I will post the part numbers here. I gave him my vin, and he had no problem finding them. He mentioned the rear guards were wagon specific.

.

For anyone interested: 

Part numbers for oem mudflaps for LGT wagon, Hardware included

…and a full set on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323137233680?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DzWCZ5ZUSGi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mm4ShqwmRX2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

First off, my LGT is my daily driver, and my suspension and wheels are oem. The rest of my LGT wagon is a mild stage 1: STI exhaust, Accessport  V1, and a K&N filter in the stock air box. So this post is directed at people who run year round, and are driving a car with stock suspension.

I drive on I-25, from Colorado Springs to south Denver (140 miles round trip) four days a week. I’ve purchased Michelins for years, but about a year and a half ago I bought these Pirelli P7 all season tires in the oem size for my LGT wagon. I love them! I drive over a pass that’s notorious for having completely different weather on each side, and elevation changes of over 2000 ft. My commute can start in sunny weather and end up in rain, snow or whatever the season can deliver. I’m sure all-wheel drive helps in crappy conditions, but I can tell they are better than the Michelins I’ve had. I’ve put about 40,000 (highway) miles on them in 18 months, and they still have 9/32” tread depth. 
They’re not loud, handle great (for an all-season tire) and have long tread life.

9 hours ago, alex0856 said:

 

@Ashtone

No problem! I was honestly surprised they were still available. Did you order the wagon specific rear mud guards? I had a hell of a time figuring out the part number for the fronts as I was getting conflicting information from different dealer sites on which set was for fourth gens.

@alex0856

when I receive them next week, I will post the part numbers here. I gave him my vin, and he had no problem finding them. He mentioned the rear guards were wagon specific.

.

On 1/9/2024 at 5:10 PM, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

Where’d you find the mudflaps? I really like these. Ended up buying some rally armors which are ok but really like the look of these instead, this is what I’d want. Are they still available? TIA!

I just ordered a set from Groove Subaru in Denver, so they’re still available from the accessories catalog. Thanks alex0856! I didn’t know about the oem mud guards.

16 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Slowly working on planning and pulling parts from the blue wagon.

I think I'm going to build a chassis dolly so I can part all the suspension and bracing from the wagon, there is just too much good stuff there that I don't want to lose.

@infosecdad:

what color is the interior? Does the sunroof still have the little arms that pull back the sunshade?

Im looking to buy those and the door weatherstripping and some tan interior pieces.

thanks!

11 minutes ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Getting ready for the JDM bumper. Had to notch out a few places on the mounts that slide into the frame but otherwise fits great.

 

Does that Beatrush piece replace your rear impact bar when using a JDM bumper cover?

My painter had such a hard time matching my paint he named it “f¥€ky-f¥€k red”. 
 

1 hour ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I’d be ok with $8k for my wagon if totaled, but only if I could buy it back for next to nothing, and keep/sell everything salvageable

Exactly. That’s what I did: took the money, (minus the salvage value) and did PDR. No title change when totaling for hail.
My point was more to the fact that it is worth more to a buyer who knows what it is (or on BaT) than to your insurance carrier.

I purchased a pristine low mileage ‘95 Accord EX Wagon from SE Texas and had it shipped to Colorado in 2019. When it came off the trailer I had around 6k invested. I was rear ended in 2020, and it was totaled. Going back and forth for 6 months contesting their $2,000.00 valuation netted me an extra $65.00. Comps in California and Arizona weren’t considered, and they were the only recent examples I could find. One was sold on BaT from NJ, and sold for more than $6k. Not considered because it was an “outlier”.

insurance and health care should not be for-profit businesses.

You will find that any standard insurance company is going to lowball any estimate you come up with. I’ve been through this twice with my ‘05 LGT 5mt Limited wagon, once at 180k and again at 210k. (Currently at 246k) Both times totaled for hail here in CO. My car has no rust, no damage, perfect leather and paint. They do not give any premium for this; that’s what their baseline is and any imperfections (except accident damage) are not subtracted. So all the care and maintenance you’ve lavished on your car doesn’t come back to you in a settlement. I spent weeks sending photos, trying to find comps and arguing over the phone. First time settled for $8500.00; second time $8k. I had bitched, yelled, whined for weeks before I finally got an adjuster who went over every option and upgrade on the car, pricing each individually, which netted me about $500.00 more than the original estimate. I had the car PDR’ed both times and it’s still on the road.

I work at a body shop in Denver, and see how these companies operate every day. their first move is to give you a lowball estimate, hoping that you will take the money and run. There is no special consideration given for rarity, “cult car” status, mods, upgrades or upkeep. That’s why there are so many “take offs” and part outs in the classifieds here. Strip everything off your totaled car that isn’t factory because insurance doesn’t pay for it. They do not give one single f¥€k. It’s all based on mileage and regional book value. So the most you can hope for is that you have a low mileage car and perfect condition and even with that you will get the value they set. Finding comps on these cars that fit their qualifications is almost impossible. We all feel these cars are special, and should garner a premium if totaled, but insurance doesn’t work that way.

Mine is an 05, and I have found that it is not old enough to qualify for Haggerty. Maybe in a few years…

Maybe there’s a company that will do a “stated value“ policy, with inflated rates, but State Farm won’t. They just don’t have the option.

im still hoping to find a solution before my next round…

8 hours ago, pksystems said:

Is that the fumoto valve that has a rubber o-ring in it?  I've seen people have issues with that one leaking.   

No; maybe they updated it. The supplied gasket was a fiber gasket.

1 hour ago, Max Capacity said:

Odd, I had no problem when putting the Fumoto valve on my GT wagon years ago. The car normally has the under engine cover installed.

Seems the only installed picture in the car is from when the oil pan was leaking. 

FWIW, you can see a small hole about 2" up on the front corner of the pan.

 

I also use gallon milk jugs with screw on tops as the catch container. I take the used oil to my local junkyard, where for free they take it, as they use it in their heating system.

 

I can’t tell what year your car is from that photo, but you have way more clearance between the oil pan and the interfering bracket than I do. Mine is an 05 LGT wagon with a manual transmission.

I installed a Fumoto oil drain, which is not just a screw-in addition. since 1972 I’ve owned 11 cars, and done my own maintenance on all of them. I have to say this Subaru is the sloppiest by far when changing oil, so this valve seemed like a great solution to eliminate the mess when changing oil.

I read a post here about grinding some metal off the support bracket that interferes with tightening the new valve, but I chose to remove the engine mount bolts and jack up the motor a bit. This eliminated the need remove the splash shield, which is in the way when trying to get a grinder into position.
The other problem I had was the position of the opening lever when the valve was fully tightened. In my case, it was facing toward back of the engine, which made it difficult to get to. I added a Subaru drain bolt gasket to the Fumoto gasket, Which placed the lever at the top of the valve when tightened. I’ll be keeping an eye on this thing for any leaks, but I’m sure it will be fine. The Fumo gasket is fiber and the Subaru gasket is metal, so it’s not like stacking two metal gaskets.

Kind of a pain on the install, and having to use an extra gasket to locate the opening lever in a good position… I guess I’ll see how it works when the accessory hose kit arrives and my next oil change is due. I drive about 700 miles a week, so they come around rather quickly.

On 12/15/2023 at 7:50 PM, 310Z said:

I really liked what Ashtone did with the useless cubby to make it useful. I have never had my phone up where I could see it while driving and as Ashtone said He did not want it to obscure the view or the temp/clock. I did not have the same products either but I found the same phone mount. Then I walked around a Walmart and looked for something similar that would work that I could adapt to my needs. What I found was a Walmart brand yoga block that I thought would work.

 

I had done some custom work on a motor cycle seat years ago so I had some ideas to go about changing the block into the size I needed. I took some rough measurements and used a electric kitchen knife to cut the block down to size. Then an electric vibrating sander (not circular) with 60 grit sand paper and then finished off with 220 grit sand paper. I did not think the adhesive on the phone holder would stick to the dense foam but it did. The block fits snugly and can slide out if needed. I just returned from a eight hour drive and this set up worked well.

Thanks for the great idea Ashtone.

Very nice!