Surfcast23

If that's the one connected to the starter I took the bracket off with out removing it. I'll check tomorrow to make sure that it didn't get jostled.

Is that above the starter? I can't really tell form the picture where it is in the engine bay.

I tried that and the result was the same rapid clicking.

Would it be safe to bypass the cables and connect my working battery directly to the starter?

Where are the grounds located?

Took the clamps off and the wire a very small amount of corrosion so I don't think that's the issue/

I tried that resulting in the same rapid clicking. I am hoping that the issue is bad corrosion in the positive battery cable where it connects to the clamp. I have the nut soaking now. I'll report back after I look at it.

Shouldn't I still be able to start it by jumping it? Terminals are tight and I will give them a more thorough cleaning today. I am not sure about the age of the battery. I have had the car for five years, but do not know if or when it may have been changed by the previous owner.

I just replaced my starter and when I went to start it (by jumping) the starter clicked rapidly and the car would not start. I also got the Er 1u error in the odometer which I read means that there is an error in the Body Integrated Unit or a very dead battery. My question is since I am jump starting shouldn't it start after a while of being connected to the other car? I am also concerned by the rapid clicking. any ideas?

I did, but don't want to pay the return shipping for the core.

My starter is shot and I am looking for a replacement. I have heard that Denso's are great, but I don't want to spent close to $200 for on a starter for a car with about 159k miles on it. So I'm looking to y'all with more experience with our cars for suggestion on a starter that will last, but not break the bank. Thank you!

I am also getting these CEL codes, p0345, p040, and p045 with occasional no start. Could these all be related?

Plugs are only a few years old. Have not done a boost/leak test. Will look for loose hoses once it cools down a bit m.

I have been experiencing violent bucking combined with/followed by a loss of acceleration from about 2500 to 3000 rpm. I have seen a few older posts with this problem and wanted to know if anyone has figured out a solution?

Where is the box located? I also don't think a 0.08 drop in voltage make that much of a difference?

Finally got a change to check the voltage and its 11.92V.

Just swaped the DRL and fog light relays with no change.

Gotcha!

The DRL's are not working at all as well as the headlights being extremely dim.

Checked fuse 18 yesterday and its good, I'll check the relays when it stops raining. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cleaned contacts, no change. Fuses are good

Will do tomorrow, at work now.

Hello All, My headlights are so dim that my fog lights are brighter. I thought it may have been the bulbs so I switched both and the problem persists. I also noticed that my DTRL don't work at all after reading through other posts from people with similar issues. I am no good at electrical and would like to ask for any pointers.