rebourne

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=210380&d=1433818778

This picture needs an arrow.

Just remember the two elements. 1 no codes. 2 visual.

Tucking away would not be CARB approved. Leaving connected who is to say the butterfly is not connected any longer. Tech isn't going to tear into your car that far to see.

Oh, you're saying the modified, butterfly-less TGVs (kinda deletes) would be fine. At first I thought you meant the deletes.

That's my thought. Ive got JDM deletes in right now. Modified my USDM TGV's to be deletes with the bar still in thinking I can sell them to someone that wants deletes but doesn't want to worry about passing smog.

You might have a customer.

<----

Your fine. Your not going to throw a code with the system still connected.

So your saying deletes are fine, if you leave the motors still connected and tucked away?

So I'm making a set of TGV deletes with the rods slimmed down to not affect flow as much and still have the motors and sensors attached. Thought on these for passing smog. I'm not worried about it for my car but should I just machine out the rod if they wouldn't work?

I'm curious if tgv deletes get through visual smog frequently. They should be non impacting to the smog numbers, if they measured.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=224036&stc=1&d=1454461139

Used VF52 arrived. Looks good, just a bit dirty. Zero shaft play. I still need to research what gaskets and hoses I should have on hand to do the swap.

Would the bare flash bring out the subtle line that goes across the doors and through the quarter more on the first picture? ...

That's the fun part! Maybe? It might highlight things you didn't see at the time?

Both pics need better lighting to be "magazine" quality, but that's it. Great local. Great car. First one, the location and background lighting are amazing. But the car needs some lighting from the left to accentuate it. Bring up the shadows on the black car, without blowing out the highlights of the background. Master one flash before adding any others. If this was an ad for the wheels you have, 2 or 3 flashes would make it even better, but only incrementally so. I'm only ranting because it's really so good, and since you have a black car, even a $3k camera needs a bit of fill flash to make this shot epic.

If you want to get into it, and you can trigger an off camera flash with your set up, get one $70 YN560 (amazon), and you're in business. Start with one flash and a stand. Then try a reflector before buying a second flash.

Disclaimer: My friend that used to photograph for Super Street gave me many tips, but I never had a car I cared to try them on, at the time. And now I am too busy with work and my kids, so I'm an arm chair quarterback at the worst.

I did play around with two YN560s off camera flashes on my kids when they were little, and I'll toss may favorite out to attempt to give my rant some validity:

Location is awesome. The wagon steez is on point. But something is missing...

Off camera flash. Both of these shots need some targeted fill lighting to make it pop. First one I'd try a bare flash to the left and play with the height and feather.

It's a fun hobby, but another time and money suck.

Thanks for all the pics and posts (including the 4th gen thread)! You are helping me a lot. I've got an AVO TMIC to go on, waiting on my vf52, need to install my GS intake, dw65c, and get my tune going with Cryo-Dave. TGV deletes and/or an elh are my main hesitation to get going. And time. Just too busy with work and snowboarding to have the subie not ready to run.

Can't wait to see how it turns out! Did you do virtual dyno runs to compare to before the parts started to fly?

My stock wheels rub very slightly on the inner fender liner. Up high and in the front. The outer fender liner is worn away because I was missing clips for awhile and it flopped down a little. Note, this is on basically stock legacy springs with a 3/4inch spacer on top of the Bilstein HD strut.

 

Edit: turns out I have a picture

http://i.imgur.com/oqa9WcU.jpg

That's the spot. There's a L shaped ledge in there, and mine was showing signs of healthy rubbing (is rubbing healthy?). But this was after lowering.

I got my roll after installing the Tein H-Tech's so I can't tell you if it was a minor, reasonable rub on the LGT springs or not.

But on the Tein's I was just tucking tire. I think the stock OB diameter tires look too big in the wheel wells when lowered this much. But my eyes might be tuned for LGT tire fitment, since I owned one previously.

I far prefer the look of a little meat on the rims/tire. How much fendor work do you think it would be to fit 245/45/18 on your rims? or is your car just too low for that?

 

Were your tires rubbing on the outside fender? or on the inside finder liner?

No rubbing with the 8" et 40s. With stock OBXT wheels and rubber, they rubbed inside and out in front. And still rubbed outside after the fender work.

I'd run 245/40s instead of 45s, for fear the tire would get to tall again and have the OE tire size problems. 245/40 is just .25" shorter than the 225/45 I am on now. Less than the difference between full tread and worn. Hrmm, well a wider wheel would stretch that 245/45, and with right offset I bet the rubbing would be minimal, and entirely reasonable.

But the more I think about it, the less likely I will run 245s. Maybe 235s. I don't need the width, and I'd like to dial in a little bit more low in the front. Coil overs will probably happen in the spring to make that happen. This is just a freeway/offramp car.

A few random updates:

Since installing the 45 series tires and with their extra 5/8" ride height, I haven't scrapped the exhaust once. They absorb plates, rail road tracks, bumps, etc so much better than the previous tires.

But! I actually feel a noticeable amount more body roll. Like, on the 40s, I wasn't thinking of sway bars... the car was pretty damn flat in the corners. But on the 45s, it seems like the scales have tilted. I've read a few books on suspension angles and math (so that makes me an expert!) and I'm not surprised... It's not huge, but I feel it.

Paid for an etune with Cryo, but haven't got my shiz together to get it started. I've got plenty of excuses, don't you worry.

Pretty much convinced myself I need an ELH; influenced by a few threads here.

Bought a VF52 from another member, via ebay. ( http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ct-oem-ihi-vf52-turbo-246977.html?t=246977 ) Waiting to see it before I decide how it alters my trajectory.

Yup, this is the thing that makes sense.

I'm estimating my 740cc, and dw65 plus upgrading the vf40 to just a vf52 or 16g will give me good response on 91, and then nearly all my clutch and 5mt can handle on E85.

And E85 is nearly a dollar cheaper than that crappy ACN 91. Jeeze... Sign me up.

Swapped out the 225/40/18s Bridgestones for 225/45/18 (lightly used) Falkens. The old ones were done.

The math says that the 45 series tire should be .77" taller in diameter, which would raise the car 3/8". Well the difference between the worn 40s turned out to raise the car 5/8" as measured at the wheel flairs.

The tires fit better on the wheels too, less stretched. I think it looks tougher, as opposed to ... uh, stance-ier?

Old tires:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=222495&stc=1&d=1452229655

New tires:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=222496&stc=1&d=1452229655

I'll get some better pics when it stops raining and I'm willing to spend the time or money to wash it.

My other thought is that I could remove the current 3" pass-through resonator and neck down to a 2". That will certainly add some resistance and will be significantly cheaper than porting or pursuing a custom downpipe (and of course, any EWG options).

 

Any thoughts on this?

Resonators don't quite follow the rules for straight pipes, because the perforations make for turbulence (like the dimples on a golf ball), and that breaks up this boundary layer you mention to some extent.

Ah, I ass-umed the "neck down to a 2" would be a straight pipe for testing... Resonators are way outside of any text book I read.

Big 16g flows a bit more then small one, it's basically an 18g that's faster spooling. This thread has a ton of good information: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208193

 

That link spends pages talking about why the small 16g and the Evo3 16g are better than the big 16G... But they are all on 2.0 L motors. Your take is that the big 16G is a faster spooling 18G, right? Almost confused... but not quite, yet.

Like i said I'm way out of practice, but with air flow through a tube the length x diameter ratio greatly affects the flow numbers. Easy analogy, blow through a drinking straw and a 1"x11" diameter tube rolled from 8x11 paper. 1" tube is easier. Now cut a 1/4" section off the drinking straw and blow through that. 1/4" of straw is as easy as the 1"x11" tube (if not easier).

Where it really gets fun is for same diameter of pipe as you go longer in length, same velocity, the airflow touching the walls is slower,than the middle. and as length goes up, this slower air actually starts to behave like a wall effectively narrowing the pipe even further. With a small enough diameter, and long enough pipe, you can get it to behave as essentially closed at higher velocities.

So, yes, if you can swap in a section of smaller diameter pipe of substantial length, you'll generate far more back pressure than a short ring.

(This is also why crushed bent piping isn't nearly as bad as people think, as a half inch bigger piping negates the potential gain you might see with mandrel bends... But I digress... And no longer have the data.)

That just gives you a reason to do a 6spd swap....

 

@covert what intercooler and fueling (injectors? pump?) are you running with your big 16g?

Honestly I've been thinking of looking at the numbers for a new aftermarket clutch, and Moore blast plates versus a six speed with the stock clutch. somehow I think I can trick myself into that making sense... but if so, I'd get a lightly used 16 or 18G for now and see how long i can baby my current clutch of unknown brand/miles. while i save for all that 6mt parts...

is there ANY clutch other than stock/OEM that IS easy? or lasts longer than a year/12k?

 

I need a new clutch for planned 350tq territory and have no idea which to get, as they all sound nearly equally terrible...

 

the only good thing with me and my driving is that i'd probably only unleash 350 on my clutch a few times a year.

Max Capacity says yes:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/time-clutch-but-which-onei-248449.html

Watching this thread too:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/competition-clutch-stage-3-review-240968.html

I drive 10k a year, so if I can get easy, 3 years between clutches and 400 ft-lb holding, I'd take that balance. I'd then be open to whatever turbo fits my budget.

I have a new clutch, exedy stage 1, just need to get a single mass flywheel then decide if it's easier to pull engine or the transmission .

 

Big 16g flows a bit more then small one, it's basically an 18g that's faster spooling. This thread has a ton of good information: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208193

There goes my morning productivity!

The best part is, it's only 200rpm slower to full boost! I got some virtual dyno's to show for it, over 35whp gains on 2psi more

That does sound tasty! Is that with any tuning or just plug and play? What's your ultimate boost target?

I'm in turbo info + clutch combo collecting mode. I've got forged pistons, so I could run a Dom 1.5XTR, but can I slug through infamous LA traffic five days a week on the clutch necessary to hold the power? The conservative side of me says a 16G or 18G and a nice easy clutch is as high as I should aim for. Still collecting info for the other side of me

I ended up just plasma cutting this thing yesterday from some 304 stainless so we'll see how well it works...

Dang dude, that looks pretty nice for just knocking it out. What's the inside diameter? By the looks, think I would have started a little smaller, just to be sure.

Don't be surprised if that sharp edge adds an all new hum or shriek to your exhaust sound profile. Might even find an rpm range where the metal resonates and "sings". I've forgotten most of what I know about that stuff from when I did speaker port tube velocity modelling for work, so just making an educated guess based on a hunch, so you don't freak out if it sounds crazy bizness. Just a tiny edge would show up as harmonic distortion, and there's going to be some insane turbulence going through that.

Going to have to update that signature once it's all sorted! And new clutch time?

Excuse my ignorance, but what makes a 16G a "big" 16G?

That looks huge next to the vf40! Thanks for that pic!