ssulb

I tried to remote start my 3.6R as I was walking to it. It attempted to start and cranked the engine but did not start. This sometimes happens when it’s really cold outside. I guess the aftermarket remote start isn’t programmed to crank long enough. In the warmer days it’s perfectly fine. I turned off the failed remote start attempt and tried to start the car normally. It cranked fine, fast and not slow. Although, it was having a rough time actually starting. (As you can hear from the video) The starter grind happens often around this temperature and is a common issue. I don’t think the starter grind has anything to do with the no start because it starts fine with the sound. It was about 27F outside and snowing. Air conditioning was off, headlights on (everything LED), and I don’t think anything was on to create additional load. Battery is healthy and connections clean. I recently changed the spark plugs about 15k miles ago. Car has about 200k miles on it.

This issue happens quiet often during the colder days, but also occurs from time to time during warm days but not as severe. This was probably the worst scenario I recorded. After this occurred and everything was warmed up, car starts up fine.

http://

Does anyone have any insight to what this could be?

Thanks.

While looking for TSBs related to airbags today, I noticed the attached one for "Click, Pop or Creek sound from left or right outer cowl corner / base of A pillar area" (12-169-14). Seems to apply to 2010-2014 MY Legacy and Outback.

 

Could this be a part of the problem on some cars?

Thank you so much for that info. I didn't know there was a service bulletin for this. I have the symptoms of this issue coming from the right A pillar. But sadly the hunt for the weird suspension clunk noises is still on going for me.

The fart sound is your tires. My tires make a fart sound as they slide horizontally across the concrete of the garage floor while jacking it up and letting it down.

 

As for the noise while driving, check to make sure the center shock rod bolt in the tophat is tight.

I thought that as well. I decided to lower the car onto pieces of wood to try to see if the noise still occurred and yet it still happens.

are you using factory bushings? anything firmer might require some sort of lube. my whiteline swaybar kit came with some. idk what swaybar youre using. where did you get the koni's from?

I am using CKE 26mm front sway bar bushings so a tad bit firmer than factory. I tried spraying lube on them but the noise is still there and nothing changed. I bought the Koni's new from the Koni website when they did a production run. Not sure if you can still get them or if they still produce them.

Sounds like a bushing is binding.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Hmm, I guess you are on the right track. The noise sounds really weird and it sounds like knocking "thudding" while driving.

that's what I was thinking - you get a metallic echo-like sound in there... I'd have someone lower the jack then go around the car listening to see where it is - you can also hit the bushings one by one with silicone spray and when you get the right one (if it's one of the bushings) the sound will change/go away

Thanks for the tip. I already sprayed the swap bar bushings and nothing has changed. I will go around and investigate all the other bushings and rubber bits.

Recently I hear a weird hollow thumbing or tapping noise while driving over slight bumps, uneven surfaces, or accelerating. The noise appeared to be coming from the front so I decided to lift the front with an ordinary floor jack to check everything. While I was lifting the car I heard a noise that sounds like a night after Taco Tuesday.

The noise only occurs when the tires are touching the ground and the suspension is under-load. As soon as the wheels are in the air, the noise disappears. The noise occurs both when lifting and lowering the front of the car. I cannot isolate the sound because when I listen for it on the left side, it appears it is coming from the right and vise versa.

From the outside it sort of sounds like something to do with rubber but when actually driving the car, it is more of a hallow sound. While driving the noise happens quickly per bump and the prolonged farting noise is only heard when lowering and lifting the car.

I am running RCE Black Springs with Koni Inserts. Pretty much everything suspension wise is replaced:

- Koni Inserts with approximately 20k miles (bottom bolt is torqued and checked)

- RCE Black Springs

- New top hat

- New sway-bar (26mm)

- New sway-bar bushings

- New sway-bar links

- New tie rods

- New lower control arm

- New ball-joint

- New front lower control arm bushing

- New rear lower control arm bushing

I always heard clunking and thumping noises in the front and was always disappointed in how the suspension sounds, although it handles flawlessly in my opinion. Browsing the forum I came to a conclusion that it is just the Koni Inserts setup that makes the noises. But recently these clunks have becoming more apparent and loud.

Would anybody have any clues or guesses of what I should do or check next?

Here is a short video of what it sounds like when lowering the car off the jack.

Unfortunately, I still hear weird clunking and hoping sounds over months of annoyance (Still love driving the car though and hardly noticeable on good pavement).

I am running on Koni and RCE Blacks and also replaced almost everything. The softer the Konis are set the more noticeable this clunk is.

1) New sway bar links

2) New top hats

3) New Control Arms (Movotech Arms with upgraded lower rear control arm bushing)

4) New Control Arm bushings

5) New balljoint

6) New tie-rods

I did everything expect touching the frame and engine mounts.

Thanks guys for the information. I think I settled on a combination.

Konig Ampliform 18 X8.5 44 offset

(I like the design, look like STi OEM wheels, and affordable flow formed wheels)

MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S 255 /45 R18

(I don't want to go lower than 45 because the roads in Michigan are terrible)

Now to save up

Hopefully they would fit. Ran it through willtheyfit.com and it says about 11mm closer to the strut.

Thanks for the feedback guys and for the reference pictures. Wow I didn't know a 255 tire would fit on the Koni setup.

Yeah finding wheels you like is a fun game.

So this question was probably answered before already in the forum but I just wanted to confirm.

I am in search of a new wheel and tire combo. I have Koni inserts with the OEM lower strut housing paired with RCE Black springs. I noticed many people are running 18" (235 or 245) (40 or 45) and was wondering about clearance with the OEM lower strut housing. I have my heart set on either Koni Oversteer or TSW Nurbburgring wheels.

I don't want to go to 19" because I feel like that is too big for this vehicle and daily driving with horrible Michigan roads.

I would appreciate the forum's feedback. Thank you in advance.

A while back I came across a project called Crankshaft and now got around to try it. This allows you to use a Raspberry Pi and a touch screen as an Android Auto interface. (sadly only for Android)

https://getcrankshaft.com

I just wanted to share my primitive testing setup. Later, I want to build a better screen enclosure and mount it permanently to the trim bezel. So far it is alright and it is an alternative if you want to get Android Auto on the cheap. The Raspberry Pi is only connected using the aux input and USB power. I've seen people build some pretty cool setups, like integrating steering wheel controls and even back up cameras.

Just wanted to share. I am waiting up and saving up for the 10" Tesla head unit in the future. That looks really cool and I am up for the challenge of wiring that up.

I tried the Nameless 5" Axle back mufflers first. They sounded pretty good and sometimes heard little growls.

wide open throttle timestamp: 5:05

Then I switched to a NVIDIA N1 cat back exhaust. Sounds great with some discrete pops.

wide open throttle timestamp: 5:25 and 6:30

Sadly, there is a lot of drone near highway RPMs with these two setups, which sucks on my long drive to school.

I also have a clunk clunk noise with the Konis and RCE Black Springs setup. I just replaced the sway bar end links thinking that might fix it but nope.

I noticed it is more noticeable if I drive the car in the morning or after it has been sitting for a while. After driving the noise is still there but less noticeable.

All clean.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sorry if this question was already answered but, I just purchased the inserts from Koni. Now I need to figure out what springs to use. I wanted to use the RCE springs or 2013 OEM springs. What do you guys recommend?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Would there be a difference between suspension parts between the 2010 GT and 3.6R? I have 130,000 miles on my 3.6R and I need to upgrade the suspension because it's very noisy and the ride is soft but I don't know what to do. I want to start off with new shocks and stiffer springs but I don't know which ones?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk