ssulb

Hey guys. Yesterday I was replacing a leaky exhaust gasket. I secured the front wheels and lifted the rear of the vehicle and the rear wheels were off the ground. After replacing the gasket, I lowered the vehicle down a little bit but the wheels were still not touching the ground. I started the engine because I wanted to hear the difference and check for other leaks. When I walked out, I noticed the left rear wheel was spinning. I did a double take and verified my transmission was in park. I turned off the vehicle, lowered it to the ground and turned it back on. I believe the reason the rear wheel were spinning while the engine was on was because the parking paw only works on the front wheels and maybe the cold fluid in the trans made the rear wheels turn in park.

Now today, I took it out for a short drive and immediately noticed the AT OIL TEMP light blinking 4 times per second. I don't think the transmission is overheating because I hardly drove it. This has to be some sort of other error message. I checked the trans. temp using RomRaider and it was around 134F-138F. I checked for error codes and found none. I then tried to clear error memory and unplugged the battery for one hour and AT OIL TEMP light did not go away.

I looked up somewhere and found that AT OIL TEMP blinking 4 times per second, then the problem is most likely a power supply or ground problem. Not sure if this is correct.

Do you guys have any suggestions about what this could be? Did I unintentionally break something? I think I am safe driving it to the dealership as long as it is not overheating, shifting perfectly fine and smooth, and the front & rear speed sensors work. I think the TCU maybe is confused and there is some permanent error code.

Make sure to get 3M VHB specifically, and I can promise it will hold as long as you clean and prep the surface properly. VHB is even stronger than normal 3M.

 

Here's my post from mounting it, scroll through the pictures to see how I did the tape on it. https://www.instagram.com/p/BytTEQmgBWH/

Yup, I agree the prep work and a clean surface is the most important step.

There's a bonus on that USB drive I sent.

Oh sweet. Can't wait to see it. Thank you.

Would you be willing to pass on that template when you're done with it? I've been thinking about getting an OEM spoiler, but don't want to deal with trying to get the holes aligned on my own.

 

Also, I have a factory bluetooth kit in my car. If you're interested, I wouldn't mind swappig it for your cubby.

Sure no problem. I can make a cleaner version of the template and pass it on. Or maybe I can figure out a way you can just print it and tape several pieces of paper together at like dashed lines.

I have the OEM H/K Bluetooth kit that is already built-in so I don't need the Bluetooth kit that goes into the cubby. Thanks always though.

Unless you're dead set on having the OEM spoiler with a functional brakelight, I'd recommend dremmeling off the embedded screws and and mounting with 3M body adhesive instead of drilling any holes. Will keep your trunk clean if you ever feel like removing it in the future, and be easier to mount and dismount. Did that with mine and it held more than strong enough for the spoiler to be used as a lift point for the trunk.

 

That said, if you want functioning brake light, yeah, go with the template. And yeah, the factory spoiler is a really good addition if your car has had a naked trunk for most of its life.

The brake light would be nice but I can live without it. Using 3M body adhesive is a good idea as it doesn't involve drilling holes. I am just worried it might not hold strong but if you say it held strong for you then I think it is worth it to try out.

Hopefully this will be helpful.

Thank you very much for the PDF. Where did you find this info? I have the FSM and many other PDFs manuals but I don't think I have it all.

I actually went to the junkyard and saw the trunk was in pretty bad shape. Lots of scratches, dents on top, rust holes on the bottom of it (typical), and rust near license plate holes.

Also I realized it is a different silver color. Mine is Steel Silver Metallic and this one was Ice Silver Metallic. And sadly no backup camera. The picture the junkyard posted was low quality and I thought I saw something sticking out that looked like the camera.

I ended up just taking the OEM spoiler and made a template where the hole line up on the trunk.

Test fit on my car. I actually really like the look of the OEM spoiler.

I also took the OEM radio with the 4.3" screen. I am going to make a harness and get it working with my car. I could just upgrade to something aftermarket but I sort of wanted to stick with the OEM look. Plus I got this one for a very good price. I took the radio, harness, connectors, USB port, and SXM antenna. I would love to get the 2013 Navigation head unit some day and upgrade to that.

I have another tool that I forgot about because I haven't used it in a long time. I just went out and test it, and it does have an ABS activation function that works.

 

Activating the software requires a hoop jump or two, but I can help you with it. You're welcome to have it for the cost of shipping. It's one of these but with bluetooth...

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000351633343.html?

Oh sure. Thank you very much for checking that quickly. Yes I am interested in it if you are willing to sell it. I can PM you details.

Just took a look at the FSM and found a connector R24/R60. Not sure where it would be located but my guess is somewhere under the partial shelf panel.

I recently spotted a 5th gen at my local junkyard. Same color as mine with the OEM spoiler and a reverse camera. I want to take the entire trunk but not sure how to disconnect the wiring harness and I don't want to cut it.

Fellow Legacy owners, have you ever removed your trunks? lol

How would you disconnect the wiring harness to the trunk. Is there like a body to trunk connector somewhere?

Damn, that sucks. I should have looked into it more first before making the suggestion. Now I see that the SSM4/Tactrix combo will only work with 2016+ models. Looks like you need something like a VXDIAG VCX NANO PRO for SSM3, but they sell for around $220.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32827708018

Oh no problem at all. You enlightened me about even using SSM with Tactrix. I didn't even know it was possible. Thank you for that. Yeah I saw a couple websites sell that VXDiag tool. I might buy one soon and check it out.

I believe they do lifetime rebuilds/replacements - if they seem like they are failing, and you're using the ones Koni calls out for your car (so 8610-1447 Sport inserts in front and 8010-1055 Sport shocks in the rear) I'd reach out to them. (they pretty specifically state if its anything other than the ones they specify for your car, you are sol, though)

Oh yeah. I forgot about the warranty. That's also something to keep in mind while selecting suspension. To be honest I love my Koni setup. It's a good mix for daily driving and sportiness. Took it autocrossing and they were great.

Thanks! Much appreciated.

Also make sure to get the torque specs RIGHT. Calipers are aluminum and you need to be careful with torque. Also like Scubaboo said, use the bolts that came with the PS calipers bolts as they have different threads.

I torqued mine down to 60 ft-lbs with Copper Anti-Seize grease.

Hey @ssulb, I went ahead and activated my HT200 to save you the trouble. No ABS bleeding. :/

 

It's still a very advanced tool for the money, but like I said, I already have something better.

 

Another option since you already have a Tactrix is SSM 3/4, but there are certain hoops to jump through, if you know what I mean. I know the places to look into such things.

Oh thank you very very much for trying it first and reporting your results. I appreciate it. Would SSM work with the Tactrix like "as-is"?

Yeah, I assumed it would show under system tests. Just went out and used FreeSSM for the first time actually... no bueno. Cascade emulator doesn't have the option either (misremembered, it did for my old Hyundai).

 

I have a Launch X431 Pro tool, so that's what I used when I bled mine. I bet the HT200 from Walmart has the option. I have one here but it hasn't been activated so I can't know for sure. Don't want to activate it because it's just a backup device in case something happens to my Launch tool. You could get one from walmart and "test" it. They have a great return policy.

Ah that sucks. Launch X431 Pro is pretty pricey for me. You think the HT200 has an option for ABS bleeding? It seemed like it's just another one of those OBDII Bluetooth adapters for a phone.

First of all. HOW did you find a 5-th gen 2010 Legacy at a junk yard? I never see them in my local junk yards.

Scoring a 2010 Nav system for $60 is a pretty good deal. I think it should be plug-n-play for a 2010. I think they changed the harness up a little bit in 2011+. You may need additional connectors and wiring like you mentioned for the GPS antenna and backup camera.

Is there a way to toggle ON the ABS motor when bleeding brakes. I heard it can be done with SSM but is there a way to do it with Tactrix or anything like that?

I recently did a brake fluid change with a Motive Power Bleeder and I feel like I still have air in the system. I bleed it out twice and in between drove the car to trigger the ABS but it seems like it's not perfect.

Nice. An Outback bumper actually looks pretty cool. How are you going to figure out the exhaust tips with the Outback bumper? Are you just going to put a turn down tip on them or actually cut out holes in the bumper?

How hard was the valve body swap? I am at 210k on my 3.6R and I am starting to suspect my Turbine Speed Sensor going. When coming to a stop I often feel a jerk, like the transmission just fell out of the car. It feels like something isn't disengaging.

How is the screen in direct sunlight?

How dim can the screen get during night time?

Did you try putting any launchers on it?

Wow the new unit looks pretty impressive! I bought a very similar Tesla screen unit from Seicane back in 2019. Oh it was horrible. It must have been a rebadged eBay variant. But watching the video of your new unit, it looks like the new unit is much much better.

The most annoying thing with the Seicane was random crashes, lag, and an annoying beep everything I used my steering wheel controls. One time when I was driving on the highway, everything froze, even the audio. I was not able to turn the volume down at all. I had to pull over and physically unplug the unit to reset it as turning the key on/off didn't reset it completely. I wanted to return it but Seicane would not allow me to so I am stuck with in a box.

I do remember them being a little dim. I replaced both after one burnt out a while ago. For the high beam, I don't believe you have to remove the headlight as they are easy to get to. I do recommend taking the headlight out for the low beams.

As for fixing the adjustment screw, over the summer I may end up taking the headlights apart and having a peak inside. I had this crazy idea of retrofitting a Morimoto Mini High Beam kit in place of the stock high beams. Also replacing the U-bar and amber turn signal LEDs with something brighter and more uniform. The turn signal LEDs are super dim during the day compared to some of the newer cars I drove. I also need to clean the lens as they are starting to peal a little bit.

Yeah it’s especially noticeable for my brights as well, have u also noticed the bulbs that come with it are not bright at all? I'm considering changing them but id have to take the whole headlight out unfortunately

I was thinking bad ground myself.

 

Admittedly, I haven’t had to take the door cards off in a modern Subaru yet, but it’s typically not the hardest thing to do. Why not pull the cards off and disconnect the door lock actuators on each door in turn and see if a particular one being out of the system stops the sound. You can inspect the wiring while you’re in there, too.

 

 

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Thanks for the recommendation. I'll do that when I get some free time.