cBax

No longer mine, but still kicking around the shop.

I'm still running mine open. I was behind on the project and that wiring was the last thing I wanted to do. Snow is not that fun right now. haha. I'll tackle it this spring along with my JDM double din. I love flogging my buddy's sti at autocross. Looking forward to that magic in the XT.

 

This thread was great! The only thing that didn't work out for me in the recipes was the Spec B linkage. I would up using the STi stuff and it worked great. 5mt bezel and shifter is centered.

My dropouts definitely seem related to the adapter. I first started seeing them on a WRX and it was bad, like every WOT I'd lose 3k worth of data. Then started seeing it on my OBXT occasionally. The adapter I was using at the time failed (mini usb connector came apart). I purchased another one and it's been fine on my car since. Ive yet to send my broken one in for repair, but he offered to do it for free. Ive got another OP2.0 that has intermittent flashing issues and haven't tested it on that one.

Nice. My original water pump was stamped as well. I put in a cast version based on suggestions here.

ugggh... You're going to make me sell these Super Pro inserts, aren't you?

 

fyi...the modification to the Super Pro appears to just be trimming the ears off 2 of the pieces.

My subframe is now blasted and ready for paint. I've decided I'm just going to leave the old bushings in and use the inserts referenced earlier in this thread.

The Perrin piece isn't solid. It's got poly bushings in it. Things not moving around is typically better, no? I couldn't care less about NVH.

I bought the 5/6spd perrin mount because the Perrin rep said it would work. All you have to do is drill two holes in the crossmember, remove the trans mounting plates from the mount and drill 4 holes in the stock mount with no rubber. Then mount the Perrin piece to the stock metal. Certainly solidifies the driveline and you will feel everything.

 

I also did the Perrin pitch stop at the same time.

 

Then the trans died.

aaaand reading this

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html

 

I did a full rebuild on a TH400 a few years ago. It's still sitting in the corner next to that project. But it wasn't a hard project. Just a lot of little stuff. hmm

Pretty much matches symptoms here

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-shudder-shaking-violently-under-wot-acceleration-150988.html

 

Im looking at a local 80k 5eat to put a valve body and diff bearings in. Hoping that would be enough to satisfy me for a little while. Just concerned about buying an unknown trans.

pooop. Pretty sure I need to get on that new trans purchase asap. Slipping fairly bad in 3rd, manual mode. And there are times I'm getting a violent shudder around 4-4.5k. Car was way up to temp for a while, but my trans temp gauge was hovering around 140 when it slipped badly. After it came up to 160ish, it seems to be holding, but I still get the occasional violent shudder.

 

Its an 05 OBXT w/ forged pistons, VF52 peaking at 21, FMIC, DW1000s, DW300c, inlet, intake, DP, catback. The intake, injectors, pump, catback and FMIC were just put on within the last month and I (was) starting to dial it in.

The center diff lives in ATF? I thought it was part of the front diff. Although, I suppose I have no reason to believe that.

 

edit: I see now. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-center-diffrential-bulletproofing-122946.html

no

I LOVE this trans mount! Such a direct feeling. It used to feel like it had a lot of slop. Definitely an increase in NVH. Slight whine when coasting to a stop. I also did a Perrin dog bone at the same time and I have Group N motor mounts. Everything vibes like crazy, but I love it. Cant wait to finish with the rear subframe rebuild and dial in my RT tables. Eyeballing some local 5eats for sale. May do a rebuild and a hexmods VB for spring time.

Figured Id post this here instead of getting lost in the WDYD to your Outback or my build thread. Installed a Perrin trans mount today on my 5eat Outback. Did not "fit" quite as easily as the Perrin rep assured me it would prior to my purchase. But it's in there and it's solid. Havent driven the car yet..

My spare subframe is sitting here with only these bushings installed. The only thing holding me up from cutting them out is not knowing whether they can be replaced. If I have to get inserts, then I'm leaving them be and just wire wheeling and painting the subframe. If I know I can get replacements, I may go ahead and cut them out and powdercoat the subframe along with the rest of the stuff. Any measurements I can get for anyone without having to remove the rubber?

I am getting ready to pull the trigger on this for my '05 OBXT. Current rack has a lot of slop and still making some noise after new inner/outer tie rods.

 

I've got some LGT rear LCA mounts and plan to remove the subframe spacers. I'm assuming that I will be able to just swap to a solid STi steering joint and I'll be GTG. Is that correct?

I am also interested. Spare subframe getting rebuilt and I'd love to ditch the crappy stock rubber bushings.

 

I'll get some measurements soon.

If you want to do it electronically, zero the initial WG tables and the target tables. I'm not positive whether the ECU will try to add WGDC if youre not hitting the target. And I would not rely on correction to bring it down from the initial WG tables. Or you can just loop the line. You can just unhook the signal lines from your EBC and put a coupler there to connect them together. I'm assuming it's easier to get to the EBC than the actual turbo nipples. Mine is still looped right past my EBC...

 

I am still on the stock timing map after I smoothed it. I dont think there is much risk leaving your timing alone. Just check for knock.

I recently put in a Qstarz 10hz GPS/accelerometer into my autocross car for logging. Works well with my android head unit via bluetooth. May be an option if you decided to go that route. But I'm sure the options are as far as the wallet is deep and there is better stuff out there.

Do you mind posting the graphs? You've got me dreading the #s when I max out my stock fueling.

I bought a set from RockAuto yesterday for $104/pc + S&H

I do the jack method on my cars.

 

Also to note, the rule about putting weight on bushings before tightening down is specifically for rubber bushings (where the inner sleeve is physically attached to the outer sleeve). Since you are clamping down on the inner sleeve, it will twist and try to tear the rubber once you finally compress it. This isn't much of a factor with poly bushings, where the inner sleeve is allowed to rotate inside the bushing.

 

Unless endlinks are adjustable, just mount them up however works. Full droop on both sides or full compression on both sides. You do generally have to push one side up or down to make them line up. With adjustables, you remove preload while both sides are compressed. I just use 2 jacks for that. Most of my stuff is too low to do it on ramps.

 

Probably going to get a pair of these arms for my OBXT. Ive got some feathering on one tire and feel the need to just rebuild the entire front end.

thank you for this! sub'd

I like AEM. But I've never tried anything else. Had to get an Innovate for my other car due to tuning/logger compatibility. They are the only ones that openly give up their code for the datastream, apparently. Wound up getting the dual gauge for both banks. not installed yet.

 

My evo had an aem and i put one in the obxt.