EuroVWGTi

Status update:

 

Other members were right, all those lights come on to "catch Your Attention" according to the Dealer. Code p0026 came up. VVL Right Oil Control valve & solenoid, found to be malfunctioning and sticking. Replaced the valve - condition cured.

 

THX for the responses. Interesting that all those lights illuminate and not just the CEL. I DID get our attention. Grand Prix Subaru in Hicksville Long Island, service my car (i did Not buy it from them). They are terrific. They also confirmed & found the slight wobble (movement) in the Driver's seat ( I couldn't recall the TSB # which I saw somewhere on this forum), ordered a new seat frame, to be installed next week. Free Oil & Filter Change (offered on every other service call), and they resecured the Gauge Cluster cover loose (i mentioned that there was noise coming from there over rough roads)......All under Warranty - no charge, no Hassle.

 

Luckily I went to AutoZone and got a read. Looks like it happened twice, but the second one is stuck and not clearing out. I got the part number for the switch. What is the part number vvt solenoid?

Ha, pita? That gave me a nose bleed. I had to read 4 times over. Haha

So I have all my keys for my 2011 Legacy 2.5 base. My main key, only half of the alarm module works. The lock button works with no problem, but the unlock, trunk and panic stopped working. I have to press it a few times before it actually unlocks the car. Probably the board has some hairline crack, preventing contact? Replaced the batteries, no dice.

 

The immobilizer works fine. Just want to see how can I replace the alarm chip and program the new alarm portion to register to the car. Will that require the dealer to do that?

140,600 here so far. After my throttle body swap on the transmission at 102k, it has been much better

So the tube was popped open. The top end of the where the housing screws into the strut itself popped out the thread. Where the whole strut came apart. Leaked all the oil and all

Yup, bent the hell out of my wheel. Have to get that bent back as well.

Will take one, once out the car. The strut cap popped off the body.

Well this is a first.... The whole strut assembly on my passenger side fell apart. The top of the strut popped off. This sucks.

Most likely a newer legacy used, but a 3.6r

Are they responsible for the oil change or we?

So both spring caps were off. Driver was off 90 degrees clockwaise and the passenger was off 60 degrees counter clockwise. The rub was the cap rubbing the strut tower. Used two sets of spring compressors and readjusted the position. Retorque and we are all good.

That's before you sucked it in with the bolt through the bottom, or after? If that's before, you should be in good shape, I don't think the little nubs on the side of the tube are that long.

 

 

That was before I had the bolt tightened.

 

Gteaser, I had sanded down the edges so it could go in smoothly. The nubs on the new shocks just have a good trip going into the donors.

 

Today I am.going to take them both out and retorque and readjust the sitting on the driver side. What I did notice, the shock wasn't sitting in the top shock cap's perch. It was a bit off by a half inch.

One quick thing too....

After the cut, I inserted the new shock into the sleeve, but shock didn't reach the bottom of the sleeve. It had a quarter inch left to move down.

Funny thing is, the nubs are directly across from each other. I will pull the strut tower and give it a look.

Do you guys mean the two rubber nubs on top of the spring seat?

I won't be able to do this till the weekend, would it be a problem if I don't do it till then?

Ok, here is my concern......

 

At slow speed turning left at low speed or turning left stationary, I hear the spring move a little bit. Turing right it is ok.

When driving at regular speeds, no movement noise from the spring. This is only happening to the driver side. Does the tower need to be tightened more?

[quote

 

I agree that the soft spring may contribute to wear them out. My OEM '12 struts weren't leaking but they were cupping my summer tires at little over 60k miles. I also read that lowering springs also wear out the OEM struts pretty quickly as well.

 

Btw, when I took apart the front struts assembly, I didn't even have to compress the springs to take it it apart. As soon as the the top bolt came off, the spring didn't even pop up.

Finally did the fronts. The most pain in the ass part was getting the new spings compressed. Not enough coils for my small compressor kit to squeeze. I ended up having a shop do that portion for me. After an hour trying, I didn't want to waste even more time.

My only point was unless you've tried it with the stock springs, you don't know how much of the difference is the Koni's vs the springs.

 

I kept reading you need to do the 13-14 springs, personally glad I didn't waste the money. The inserts were enough for me since it's a daily driver.

 

True, but I honestly think the shocks prematurely wore out because the 2010-12 springs were too weak.

Oops that is what I meant to say. 1055s rears

I keep reading this, but I'll be blunt- is anyone that saying this actually tried the inserts with the stock springs or just making assumptions.

 

I am doing that setup next weekend on my 2011. I already did the 1453 rears with the 2013-2014 springs. World of a difference. I and going to do the same for the front with the inserts.

Ok, cool. I will get part 24, 1453s and springs from 2013 2.5i. Thx again.

Sorry, Gteaser. Here's the link

https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/auto-parts/2011/subaru/legacy/2-5i-trim/2-5l-h4-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/suspension-components-scat

Sounds cool. So I order things correctly, what numbers am I ordering then?

 

Also, did we determine the length of the cut to do on the housing?

 

Thx gteaser