Tronic

Yes problem is that this is for only 2 of the 3 hoses required. It looks like these are both for the TOP radiator hoses when in fact its the larger BOTTOM radiator hose that is the main problem. Think I will pass and stick to the OEM ones. Possibly Gates do a lower hose. Cannot find a set, even from China that specifically say they will fit the Subaru EZ30 H6 Engine.

So are you saying something like quality hoses like this will fit ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/MISHIMOTO-2008-2014-SUBARU-IMPREZA-WRX-STI-RACING-BLUE-SILICONE-RADIATOR-HOSES/250910872658?fits=Model%3AWRX+STI%7CMake%3ASubaru&epid=21017010620&hash=item3a6b741452:g:8SYAAOSwr81UP~H3 I have had much better luck with getting silicone to seal over time, even with air in the inlet like from the turbo to intercooler etc.

Not sure if anyone is having the same issue but the stock Subaru Radiator hoses for the 3.0R are really not that great. I have put some stainless jubilee clips on the bottom hose to stop it leaking because those stock clamps fail to seal after a while. The top hose is now weeping. Anyone found anything on E-Bay ? searching for silicone hose kits is a bit of a nightmare. From experience a decent quality silicone hose gets a better seal. Only need the two top and bottom radiator hoses, not really interested in any others.

Wouldn't run the Mobil 1 5W-30 in a turbo. Ran the Mobil 1 5W-50 in a Turbo for 10 years, no problems and then switched to Castrol EDGE 10W-60 when it became available. Car has 236,000Km on it and it still runs like new. Its also been on the track a couple of times. The temperatures the oil experiences when it goes through a Turbo is a killer. You could get away with that 5W-30 in a N/A car.

10W-60 is good for -25C to +50C ambient temperature. Not too many places in the world where the temperature drops below -25C Reality is we never see below freezing here with a maximum of 30C. Castrol EDGE 10W-60 allows you to thrash your car occasionally when your in the mood. I would argue if you use a really good oil and change it often you don't even need an oil filter. Plenty of early motorbikes didn't have one and oil technology has improved dramatically over the years. Run a synthetic and change it every 10,000km and only change the oil filter every second or even third oil change.

Pointless to have an opinion unless you have kept the same car for at least 10 years and used the same oil in it. Time is the only real test. Have run full synthetics and changed them on a regular basis and have not had to do any serious engine work at all in one of them thats been mine for 20 years now. Decent oil is expensive and I stick to using it from only the major players like Castrol & Mobil. The biggest problem is that people simply don't change their oil often enough or in some cases never. Even a much cheaper oil would probably see your car engine last a lifetime, but you would need to change it more often. personally I would rather put in a great oil, its much cheaper than an engine rebuild. If you have a turbo then the stress on the oil is increased significantly so I wouldn't be using anything other than a synthetic in it, if you plan to keep it for years that is.

No issues running 10W-60 in my Subaru as a daily driver. Basically 5W gives me 17psi of hot oil pressure at idle and 10W gives me 22psi of hot oil pressure in the MR2. Use the same oil in all 3 of my cars. People are over complicating it. Use a genuine oil filter and a decent synthetic oil changed at at least 15,000km intervals or earlier and the engine will go forever. The best advice I can give is for you to change your own oilbecause if you don't you do not know whats actually in the engine anyway so no point even talking about what the best oil to use is !

If you run an oil pressure gauge you will notice how the hot oil pressure changes as you go from 0W to 5W to 10W. Of course the pressure doesn't tell you what the oil thats getting there is actually doing in terms of lubrication but its a bit unnerving to start seeing low oil pressure at idle. Something like 10W-40 in a full synthetic is still a good pick. You also pretty much get what you pay for in terms of its performance.

Personally I would never run a 0W oil in a turbo, its way too thin. Personally I don't go with the oil matching the ambient temperature range. Sure it applies when you first turn the key, but after that its irrelevant. The temperature inside the engine and especially the turbo is not affected by the ambient temperature to any great extent. 0W oil if you have an oil pressure gauge fitted will become a problem after a couple of thousand km, the idle oil pressure is low and starts jumping about. Been there and done it, had to drain it out at 2000km and change it. I got away with 5W oils like Mobil 1 but I notice even high performance bikes these days are sticking to 10W. I use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in all my cars.

Strange how I have posted the solution to this problem and no one is following it. You DO NOT need to replace the electric motor you need to clean it. Stick it in a glass jar of petrol with a low Voltage DC supply attached to it and it self cleans itself.The problem is the oil on the motor brushes and armature. Change the petrol a couple of times until it remains clear and then hit the motor with compressed air before running it outside of the submerged petrol and its fixed. Did it with both my rear door locks two years ago and no problems since. Petrol in liquid form is not flammable, petrol vapor when mixed with the appropriate proportion of air is extremely flammable. You keep the motor submerged in the petrol and run it. It actually pumps the fuel through itself if you try it.

Had a similar problem in a Lagacy H6 Wagon. There are bits of black in the coolant overflow reservoir and no matter how hard I tried to bleed it it then overflowed due to the head gasket being cracked and gasses getting into the coolant. Basically I'm still running the car but it now has no thermostat and the radiator cap has no pressure seal and you can only 3/4 fill the radiator. Its not worth fixing it on a 2000 car, too much time and expense so just running it until something else packs up and its scrap metal. The bits of black are thin sealant from the head gasket.

I used a couple of 25mm long stainless steel 3mm bolts. You can drill right through in two places that doesn't interfere with anything and just bolt it back together. From the look of the serious corrosion on the motor, somehow water has got in. The problem is like the rear light, if the water gets in it cannot get out. Really not sure why there was not a small drain hole in the bottom, would have also stopped the oil getting into the motor as well. The motors on mine where spotless except for the oil that got inside.

In the 2004 Subaru Legacy 3.0R I only had problems with BOTH rear door locks but the fronts are still fine. Not sure if this is normal or even if they got replaced before I got the car. The fronts not locking is something you notice pretty quickly, the rears not so much. The dealer that sold me the car didn't notice for starters, plus they were intermittent, sometimes they locked sometimes they didn't. What I noticed is they were slow to lock and didn't make that "Snap" sound.

Just clean the motors guys as I have outlined, your just wasting your money buying a new one. From memory the OEM electric motor is a very high quality Mabuchi Japanese motor. You also want to mop up any residue oil inside the gearbox with a cotton bud before reassembly. Chances are you will only ever have to service this part once in the lifetime of the car.

I recently bought a 2004 Subaru Legacy 3.0R 6 speed manual wagon and immediately had problems with the rear door lock actuators. What I would like to add here is that you can CLEAN the motor without disassembling it. The motor was not faulty, it was contaminated with oil. What you do is connect the motor with two wires to preferably an adjustable DC power supply in the order of 3 to 14V DC. The wire ends can be twisted and pushed into the motor where the contacts would normally go. What you then do is submerge the motor in petrol and run it from the DC supply. Remove the worm drive gear first by just pulling it off. The petrol quickly turns black as the motor pumps the petrol through it. Okay before you FLAME ME by telling me its dangerous to do this, it isn't because its exactly what your fuel pump is doing that's in your gas tank. Run it for a few minutes and change the petrol if necessary. The motor is then left to dry or use an airline on it. What you find it that the motor has regained its full torque and the door latches now snap open and closed. I held both halves of the white case together with two 25mm bolts and nylock nuts, looks a little "Frankenstein" but its not like you can see it.