Gabo

I had similar issues with General tires in the past. I was on 235/40 vice your 235/45 though. Do you by any chance store the car/tires for a prolong period of time? I was instructed to get the tires remounted and if that didn't fix it I would have to purchase four new tires. In my case though I was already pass the warranty period.

Hopes this helps.

Damn Gabe. Hope all is well and you did not have to sell it, but wanted to. Was always happy to assist with the car and tried to advise honestly.

CA can now determine if your ecu has been remapped and when so it is an automatic State Ref. You are very familiar with my car, as you know it would never run on OEM mapping. I decided it was time to move on. In other words CA broke my car enthusiast spirit at least for now.

If and when I leave CA perhaps I'll go down the rabbit hole once more. For now I'll stick to mods that are CA friendly.

I am good. Kickin in Harpers Ferry today. DC bout made my head explode this week. U still around Reston/Dulles? I gonna bring fam to DC soon 4 cherry blossom festival. We missed last year (covid)

 

Cant seem to tune my 4runner with an AP. Oh well, I dont need the 3whp gain anyway. Was gonna crack into the wifes RDX (2.0 turbo) but she got the better of me. LOL.

Hi Mike I ended up selling the Spec B (I know). The new owner was impressed with the build quality. Thanks for all the help throughout the years, hope all is well.

Wish you were east coast! GLWS!

My brother is in that neck of the woods. Just moved right before the pandemick started. Maybe I drive it over ?

Gentleman. I've made the difficult choice of selling my Spec B. I now have to decide how I want to price it. No matter how much I think about it I will most certainly lose quite a bit of money. My hope is someone here in the forums will jump at the chance of buying a really well sorted Spec B with top of the line parts. This decision was not made in haste, nor is it an easy one. All this to ask you Legacy gurus what you think its a fair price for my Spec B. Here's a short list of the main components but not all.

Vehicle Specs:

2007 Spec B

Forged SB ( CP 9.0:1 Compression Pistons)

Outfront Motorsports Custom Rods (Equal to or better than Manley Turbo-Tuff)

Dom 1.5 XT-R, 10CM, 2.4 Inlet, Internal Wastegate

ETS FMIC

KSTech 73mm Intake with heat shield

TGV deletes with phenolic spacers

Secondary Air Pump Delete

AVO Inlet

Killer B Holy Header w/ uppipe

Grimspeed Catted Divorced Downpipe

Infamous Stromung V2 Exhaust

Grimspeed 3 port EBCS

DW 1300cc Injectors

DW300

IAG Fuel rails (Ran in parallel)

Southbend Stage 2 Endurance Clutch

STI OEM SM Flywheel

Delicious Tuning MK2 Flex Fuel Kit with custom dyno tune from Bill himself.

Accessport V3

Gramlights 57DR (17 x 9 +38)

RCE Tarmac T1 Coilovers

Stoptech BBK (Front & Rear)

JDM Double DIN (With Pioneer Radio)

There's a lot more but these are the big item mods. The chassis has a little over 205k miles. Engine somewhere in the 15-20k miles.

Thanks everyone.

Do you stil have the front passenger Spec B door card?

Thanks

I’ve considered this a time or two but the financial bit would be huge and I know I would end up regretting it. I’d love to have something a bit more .....less rattly? But I know I would never be as proud of the replacement as I am of my leggy. It’s unique and mine and it’s super clean for its age blah blah blah.

 

What’s your “number”? $18k, $22k...? My investment is in your ballpark. I’m around $35k over the cost of the car, which I bought new in 2009. I honestly can’t put a number on my car. I’ve said $25k....which is absurd and will never be taken seriously. It’d still be a huge loss too. But even at that price, what do you do? Dump that into a new platform and start from scratch? Down payment on something else?

You have described my situation down to a T. California has been working towards destroying our industry/hobby for over two decades now and I'd argue they are within grasp of their goal. At this point I would be better off buying a car that already sits at over 350 whp from factory and focus exclusively on suspension mods and wheels. Otherwise if I'm to remain in California and continue to enjoy my hobby I'll have to start projects based on vehicles from 1994 and below.

Keep the Spec B, move away from California.

I have given this serious consideration, I have family in Florida, Maryland, Arizona and Louisiana. So far Florida leads the race.

Push comes to shove I might actually ship the car out to Florida, put it into my dads name and use it when I go visit. That would be a shame though since it would only get driven maybe three times a year

So.... Here I am considering the crazy idea of selling the Spec B and moving on. I absolutely love driving the car and have zero issues with it but for one thing; the ever more stringent Kamifornia smog laws.

I have no clue how to price the car either. It has over 30k in improvements and no, I'm not naïve enough to believe I can recoup all of that but I also don't want to "give" the car away.

Decisions, decisions....

I wonder how they compare to my Stoptech setup. The price is great for those looking to upgrade from factory.

Thanks for sharing

I thought the spec B axles were the same as 5spd manual turbo lgt/obxt?

Front axles are, but the rear Spec B axles are hybrids in order to work with the R180 diff in the rear.

What happened?

False alarm.... In my rush to get the car done for retuning I reversed the turbo coolant reservoir lines

By the way I immediately started wishing you were still in business. Almost jumped the gun and bought a closed deck to use with the V25B cylinder heads that I'm still holding onto.

How deep did you get before figuring out the root cause?

Not too deep..... New radiator caps and right before burping it realizing two coolant lines were reversed (re-installed wrong ). Fixed the issue, burped the system and began testing. 6 psi, 11 psi, 18 psi, 24 psi (x4) and the issue never resurfaced. Coolant temps also never went over 199*F.

This simple way would keep the OE ECU in control of the throttle, fans, relays, CEL, A/C, SI drive, ect. This way you could keep cruise control.

 

My goal was to take everything I possibly could away from the factory ECU and only leave the OE ECU there to keep the car's canbus happy.

Does this mean the car will pass an OBD2 scan? If so this opens the door for those of us dealing with smog.

okay I really want to hear more about this Haltech wiring of yours when you have some time.

Same here, especially if it means I can get away with a similar swap in Cali.

I cant LOL loud enough at the use of AOS on street vehicles. :lol::lol::lol: Save your money. Yes they work, but not on a build like yours. Only Subies I have ever built, prepped and maintained that actually needed, used or benefited from their AOS were running north of 28psi and holding those boost pressures for long periods. Only one was street driven and it was friggin scary. Crazy Polish owner, but I loved the guy. All hype except for race cars and the most EXTREME street Subies (cars with chassis twisting torque).

I think I'm just looking for things to do to it, lol. I'm glad we still got you to speak some sense.

I installed my Crawford v2 AOS the other day and man been driving it a bunch and it's running way smoother now I was getting way to much oil sucked into the intake and while going on the highway or heavy throttle it would suck it into the engine and stumble and puff out a huge cloud of smoke and then be fine but not anymore

While on the subject.... How much oil were you topping off between changes? Currently I have to top off around 1/4 to 1/2 a quart between oil changes. I'm debating if I should start seriously considering running an AOS.

So the last few days have ben eventful to say the least.

For starters I removed the oem fuel rails in exchange for IAG variants. In the process I decided to send out the injectors for flow testing and cleaning after input from some of you here. The focus of this post will be exactly that.

I've been running straight pump E85 for about three years now. The first few months I would do a tank of 91 octane every other fill up or so but the power and smoothness of E85 eventually won me over. At this point I would periodically add Lucas Oil E85 stabilizer and ran the Chevron injector cleaning solution at least twice a year.

I had the injectors cleaned and flow tested previously three years ago, when I initially had the car built. I have the results at home for the testing three years ago. For now I'll share the latest results.

Before Cleaning;

Injector 1: 1029cc/min Pattern: Dripping

Injector 2: 1187cc/min Pattern: Fair

Injector 3: 788cc/min Pattern: Dripping

Injector 4: 995cc/min Pattern: Dripping

After Cleaning;

Injector 1: 1250cc/min Pattern: Excellent

Injector 2: 1251cc/min Pattern: Excellent

Injector 3: 1249cc/min Pattern: Excellent

Injector 4: 1250cc/min Pattern: Excellent

Moral of the story; For those of you running pump E85 full time it is a good idea to send out your injectors for cleaning and fuel testing at least every other year.

Yes, but for the build level you're at, it makes sense.

 

For the novice LGT owner with a VFxx turbo, not so much.

Agreed