DanielLGT

I'm worried about the fluid loss....would a "broken" seal do that? Or do you think it was how my car was jacked up? or combo of both?

 

It was old formula Extra-S fluid to....now I have to drain the whole thing and put in a new type of fluid since I can't get that fluid anymore (as far as I know).

I was able to buy the extra s stuff from my local dealer last year. They buy it by the drum and sell it by the liter. (BYOB) For them to fill up. From my understanding not all dealers have it/will even bother getting it.

 

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Over 20k on my new aftermarket axel. Zero issues.

I agree too, I would have one on hand in case you ruin one. But its not necessary. I never touched mine and still good a year later

 

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I went with the ES brand that is recommended. They are poly and come with brackets, seem solid. I got greasable, 20.5mm for the front and 16mm. back. No 21mm greasable.

 

I just ordered mine and under a different set of part numbers they had 16 and 21mm greasable. 11.95 each... order was 70$ after tax shipping and the dollar difference.

I didn't know you had to remove the axle for a coilover install. Is that something specific to the 5th gens?

I don't think he removed the Axel, sounds like he just hit the boot while swapping parts.

So like some others in this thread I put a pin hole in the passenger side boot while trying to remove the old suspension and install coilovers on my 2014. Gonna be installing a brand new cv assembly since I couldn't seem to find an outer boot kit for my car. Just want to clarify some things from reading this thread;

 

1) to avoid having diff/tranny fluid spill, raise the front of the car a good amount? Both tires or just the side I'm working on?

 

2) when removing/installing the axle from the tranny, is the idea to keep it as straight as possible? Is it really that tough to avoid hitting the seal?

I raised just the side I worked on, makes the fluid sit away from the hole. You'll still leak some but nothing crazy just check your fluid lvl after. Its a good idea to keep it very straight. But I was quite rough on mine and no leaks. It needed some love to seat all the way in. If worried pick up a seal as spare. There easy enough to replace if you do mess it up. But again I was hard on my 10year old seals and everything was fine. I used some of the gear oil on the input shaft to the tranny and made sure the seal was nice and wet with it just in case.

That's awesome, what did you use to grease them?

Sounds easy enough!

Haha, I am glad to hear, its amazing how much noise they can make!

Wouldn't happen to have a link to that? Gonna have to do them when I swap out the turbo

Hopefully something loose, I know when my sway link was loose it made an huge noise, tightened it up, was good to go. I need new sway bar bushings too.. I wonder where to find better ones for an OEM bar.

Well if it isn't leaking I wouldn't touch it!

There is a spring like metal ring on the back side of the seal as you can see in the second picture. If it is actually the same ring that fell from yours I would recommend just replacing the seal (under 10$ for the dealer)

Oh? I never saw one come out with mine. But.. Here is a new seal I had just in casehttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/11/99e8ae8e6078828aa9a19915863bd309.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/11/b6a13424f1be871b62d42ea3bc986336.jpg

Hopefully just fell off you car somewhere else? I never saw one on mine. I don't thing there was s one around the axle seal?

Mine took a few good whacks to get it back in... Topped up the gear oil and was good to go.

Thanks, this is all good info.

 

Final question (I hope). I cannot get the axle out of the hub/rotor. Popped the ball joint out, but the axle doesn't want to budge. Just more elbow grease?!

Like the axle is stuck in the hub? Since you want to save it I would put some wood over it and hit it was a hammer to break it loose. I undid my strut instead of the ball joint. I have aftermarket control arm bushing and the arm wouldn't come down to make room.

also when you re toque you new axle nut, Do it with the car is still in the air. you don't want to tighten it with the cars weight on it. 137lbs btw.. or at least for an 05 LGT.

Any suggestions in getting the axle nut off? I got a breaker bar, tire is still on the car, haven't jacked it up yet. Added some PB to it and it's soaking now. Seems the 32mm or 1 1/4 is just a bit wiggley when I try and bust the nut.

 

Besides an impact gun.

The way I did it was jack up that side of the car and remove the wheel. Use a 32mm socket on an impact gun. It came right off. I figure with out the impact it shouldn't be hard. Use a price of pipe for more leverage if need be. Just stick a screwdriver in the vented part of the rotor so when you turn it the hub doesn't spin. (Or have a friend sit in the car with the foot on the brake).

I am Currently running the surtrack CV without any problems.

No they don't come with it anyway. So doesn't matter.

SURTRACK Part# SB8047 I got it at Canadian tire for 110$ plus Tax. It comes with a lifetime warranty and I can exchange it at any Canadian Tire. The Unit was new not remanufactured and no core charge. I have put about 1000km on it so far. no noises or vibrations. Its been a hard 1000km too. I spent all weekend on the Ice track here spinning my tires and sliding around.

I thought about rebuilding mine, but the parts counter wanted 27$ for grease per boot. Then almost 20$ a boot and 4-5$ for each of the band clamps. It was cheaper to just buy a brand new one with a lifetime warranty.

I got mine from CT, I was careful and only about a cup of fluid came out. I bought a new seal from the dealer just in case I messed it up. It was under 10$. didn't need it but if I didn't buy it you know I would of needed it.

Just throwing it out there (I know people love OEM better) you can get them for a few dollars more new with lifetime warranty. If you are looking for the OEM boots and stuff, try SubaruPartsDepot.com.