Bootyologist

you don't need a tactrix cable for pulling codes. a $20 amazon OBD2 bluetooth scanner works great

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yeah these are definitely not 5th gen bits

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there are a bunch of us in the FB group that have overlays. these eBay ones look amazing, but im concerned about them being a single piece. the jdm ones we have are multiple pieces. background, tach, speedo, fuel, and mpg.

the benefit of multiple pieces is that the chrome rings and needles don't need to be removed to install the overlays. I took my chrome rings off and ended up breaking the little pegs that hold them to the gauges. took some super glue to reattach. you can see the array of small holes where those pegs go in the eBay photos.

the jdm ones are out of production. a random pops up in the Yahoo auctions every now and then. they are also kph, so the tach and speedo don't line up.

I've got a spare gauge cluster lying around so maybe I'll order an overlay to experiment with. nice find, btw!!

here's a photo of just the background from the jdm set.

edit - just noticed the eBay sets are kph and come from Russia. damn.

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Tim, thanks to your fantastic write up and this YouTube vid (

That driver rear was a beast. If I would've had a flex head socket, it would've been a million times easier. I opted not to buy one tonight when I was hazardfraught cause I figured my combo of stubby extensions, u joints, and wobblybois would work. what a pain.

Next up on the 100k list - throttle body cleaning and diff/tranny oil. Gotta keep them trannys lubed, hrrmmm.

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are you in the Facebook 5th gen group? Im sure the brace would sell immediately on there.

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The 3.6 engine absolutely does not need to be lifted to replace the plugs. Battery and intake need to come out, but those are easy. My indie mechanic charges me $200 to do plugs. Timmy B did a fantastic write up on how to do them if you're feeling adventurous.

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the front splash guards don't fit usdm skirts. if you can find the rears, those definitely fit. I'm pretty confident the front bumper bits won't work as the JDM/USDM bumpers are different.

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If these are JDM, I'm pretty sure they won't fit the USDM knuckles.

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I did the oversized tire thing for a couple years. (235 50 18). looked great, but the rears would rub if I had people in the back seats. I went back to stock size once I realized it was throwing off my odometer reading. it was probably off by about 1500 miles over a 2 year period.

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pm sent!

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did you use any liquid gasket on the threads of the pcv valve? I'm swapping mine out when it warms up. shop manual says to use some.

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wouldn't getting the gialla painted cost about the same as the $400 lips/skirts??? the gialla is way too sexy to be neglecting...

Here you go. https://www.ebay.com/itm/391724637965

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I have a clunk in the front left from specific types of bumps that showed up after installing the Konis and 13-14 springs. I've tightened everything and cannot seem to fix it, although it doesn't seem to happen much in warm weather. I don't think that the koni and 13-14 combo is the cause, but merely makes it noticeable, since it is stiffer than OEM and 10-12 springs. I suspect that the OEM stuff absorbs the energy before it is able to cause the clunk in most cases.

during one of my spring swaps, I checked to make the inserts were bottomed out in the donors and they were. no idea where the damn noise was coming from. frustrating

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Most important lawn mower mod:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Swagman-80980-To-Go-Clip/dp/B000YZI6SY

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Seriously. Had I known this was going to happen, I may have reconsidered...

 

But anyway, it isn't a lowered suspension problem, it is a stiffer suspension problem. I'm on stock 13-14 springs with the Koni struts, and as I turn the koni stiffness down the clunk happens less frequently.

it's not the endlinks as I swapped those out a couple months ago, which solved one of my other rattles. 1 yr old oem, and they were noisy.

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I still have a clunk on the front right, sometimes the left as well, but not as often. was hoping it would go away after replacing both control arms, bushings, and ball joints. seems to happen more below 60 deg, so now I get to listen to it alllllll winter.

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Yes.

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Coming from the same guy that took apart his gauge cluster to paint the rings and add cf overlay...lol.

 

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I know the exact frustration you're going through. I have also almost brought myself to getting rid of the car for the very same reason. Please let us know how the new control arms work out. I'm at 50k and the Buffalo weather is much like your Minnesota weather and our roads are just as shit. If the new control arms solve the shuddering that would be fantastic as nothing would chap my ass more than dropping a grip on shocks springs and hats only to have the same issue remain.

 

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My new arms/bushings are going in on Thursday. I'll report back. Sorry GTeaser, I know this is a sticky : /

I'm trying to solve a shuddering through the chassis every time I hit a bump or crack in the road. In NY that's often. Bushings I'm sure will take some of that out too.

I have this same issue. I've tried 4 different spring/shock combos over the past year and it's been there for all of them. this isn't the sole reason for swapping suspension bits, but I was hoping it would be remedied by it. unfortunately not.

after bitching about it in on the Facebook group this week, someone said shuddering is from worn front control arm bushings, as he had the same problem and this fixed it. kinda disappointing as the car only has 60k it, but I guess the rubber bushings could dry out after 6 years of Minnesota weather. even more frustrating is that multiple shops and mechanics said the bushings were fine, even though the rubber is starting to crack.

I ordered subie oem control arms with bushings and ball joints for $80el each. they should be here Monday and will go in next week sometime. I'll report back.

this has been driving me mad and is the main reason I've been thinking about selling the car. here's to rolling the dice....

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I know this may be taboo, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience/input on running the Koni dampers on 2011 OEM springs. I honestly am hesitant to use the '13-14 springs, as the roads around me have MANY buckled joints, and I already feel like the softer '11 springs are fairly harsh on the small buckles and bumps.

 

Would the Konis still benefit the '11 springs, or am I really better off getting the '13-14s?

I just installed the 13/14 springs on my konis a few days ago. over the past 9 months, I've used the konis with rce blacks and eibachs. the rce were awful with koni. after a month of that combo, I went to eibachs as they had a similar spring rate as the 13/14. they were more comfortable than the rce, but on the rough Minnesota roads, they were still quite harsh.

the 13/14s are waaaay more comfortable and the car still corners quite well. I'm rather pleased with the setup. I miss that wheel gap reduction of the lower springs though :/

golferdude has had the same setup since last fall, and he loves it.

basically it comes down to where you live. shitty roads? go stock springs. nice California roads? eibach all day long.

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You are thinking this over way too hard, mine were easy to compress and pull out but at a relatively slow rate. Just put them on and enjoy!

mine were the same way. I was....shocked.

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we were discussing this on the 5th gen Facebook group... someone thought that the new programming could possibly revert back, leaving you with an immobilized car. I was all on board for doing this, but that killed it. may or may not be true, but I'm not rolling the dice on getting stranded with a toddler in the car because I had to have a prettier gauge. :/

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Yes, very good! DRAG DR-31. 18x9 38 offset. Tires are BF Goodrich Comp-2 A/S 245/40/18.

thanks! i was mostly looking for wheel size and what tire/size. i had drags before and recognized the center caps. no shame in drags. when you curb them, you wont want to vomit

First time in months my car has been this clean.

what wheel/tire setup do you have there? those tires look great!

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