RumbleRumble

4at trans blow the center diff bearing all the time. 5MT are a bit more robust. The gear oil should be changed every 30k and with conventional or Semi-synthetic. using a full synthetic fluid will wear our the syncros and cause grinding when fast shifting. The box was designed for normal fluid. If you need to replace the center diff it's actually pretty easy

What brand fuel pump? Cheap ones never work...

JDM ej206 into USDM legacy?

you are probably burning it. Rent or buy a coolant pressure tester. If you come up with no leaks than you got bad head gaskets most likely.

If your burning oil you can trigger the 420 code

Just buy a multimeter with continuity. There's a few good youtube videos on how to use it. I diag'd my bad cam sensor, fix'd right the first time and didn't have to guess.

Quite literally the easiest thing to do. Flip arm up, Underneath middle point of the blade there should be a tab, either press it down or lift it up and slide the wiper blade against the arm. New one should just slide in. Be careful and don't leave the wiper arm in the up position. it could snap down and crack your window.

amps are under the passenger seat

Aftermarket remote starts always cause issues.Dealer installed ones are no better. They are only good from the factory.

I just finished WRX/5sp swapping my 04 forester from N/A-Auto. Just for the engine and all the parts to get it to run is about 3500$ if you get your harness merged.

I would have swapped the Legacy but there is a hole in the rear wheel well the size of a grapefruit.

To do it right you'll need:

Turbo Engine

Turbo ECU

Turbo inntakemanifold Wiring / fuel lines

Turbo trans wiring

Turbo front subframe

Turbo exhaust/ Downpipe

Turbo TD04 at least

Tune

AVCS wiring*

Fuel Pump 255

Intercooler

BPV

turbo radiator

turbo intake

 

 

The cheapest would be 02-03 wrx engine. usdm has intake avcs* and JDM engines have both. JDM Engine Depot(NJ) has then for 1000$. They are old so except bad headgaskets and things of that nature when buying a old EJ that has been sitting for years.

While your at it might as well do:

valve cover gaskets

spark plugs

clutch

intake gaskets

reseal oil pan

reseal oil pump

reseal access plate

cam seals

rear main

tgv deletes

timing belt kit

Bigger injectors (supporting mod)

Sounds like a shot pump.

The change of compression with the new head gaskets is possibly causing problems.

 

 

Unless the new head gasket is a different thickness it won't change the compression. A thicker gasket would actually reduce compression.

Why not just buy a new PCV?

 

 

Because that's not the issue.

Your oil control rings on the pistons are bad. That's why you consume oil with no smoke.

https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/engine/diagnosing-oil-consumption-issues/

Timing chain tensions are a thing I believe depending on the year. I'm sure they have a 150k service interval. Plus everything else that applies to a normal Subaru. Does it have VDC?

I'm saying constantly smoking out the tailpipe while driving is serious, That would be blown. Consuming some oil is just a common thing in a worn engine.

My brothers forester burns a quart every 350 miles! His engine had a head gasket job done but didn't change any valve seals or anything like that(previous owner..) We're doing the same pcv delete and changing oil regularly till I have time to swap the engine.

You need to remove the PCV and add a new fitting or hollow out your valve. Remove the breath hoses off the air box. the ones that run from the valve covers.

you need to bench test it. It will tell you more than just voltage while the car is running.

I would called that blown at that point.Yours is worn out. Take the valve out, match it up with a brass hose fitting from the hardware store(I forgot the thread size) run a hose from that. The engine will last slightly longer. you will stop all that oil burning be put back into the engine. PCV is only for emissions.

 

You can try frequent oil changes or running a some sea foam 5 mins before changing your oil to try and clean it out. I wouldn't drive with it in the crankcase.

Check the wheel bearings.

What kind of alternator did you use? I would get it bench tested.

It could be a mix a of a few things. The head gasket could be leaking oil in or out the engine. Piston oil control ring could be gummed up or worn allowing oil to be left over on the down stroke. The valve stem seals could be dry and always letting oil pass between the valves. You have a oil leak from the oil pan.

 

 

Check your PCV, if it's clogged with oil, you've been burning it. I would just vent everything to atmosphere. Delete the pcv and vent it with a hose, take the valve cover vent hoses off the air box and then plug the box.

It's piston slap. It's normal for older subarus. Just let it warm up a tad bit before you drive.

You can really bang up the trans hitting this too hard. The shifter will feel sloppy in gear.

Most Subaru seats are bolt up and go for the front.