biz77

In a properly functioning amplifier you are NOT seeing DC. You may see some ripple or offset, but your not seeing straight DC. Look at the definition of DC and then look at the explanation you gave. You are talking on the order of milliseconds. This is unfortunately another one of those myths that is so engrained that it is tough to show people the error of thier ways. Unfortunately people take white papers etc out of context and come up with this stuff. This myth is along the same lines as "too little power is more harmful to speakers than too much power." and is a close cousin of "clipping and distortion destroys speakers." Nonetheless, straight DC will not kill a speaker and I can prove it... The ONLY thing that will kill a speaker is TOO MUCH POWER. If anyone trys to tell you that a speaker driver dies any other death, please just kick them in the balls, turn your back and walk away.

I'd love to hear the explanation on "short-term DC power"...

I'd say not bad for missing a half-liter of displacement. Why didn't you mention the two HTA68-powered 2.5 liter cars that have run traps 6-7mph higher on pump gas? Well, because that would be counter-productive to your quest, wouldn't it? Who's drinking the Kool-Aid?

Really? They looked identical to the RX330 Non-ASF???

The 1.79 60' was luck, as most of my others were high 1.8's and low 1.9's. The clutch seemed to grab better as the night went on. My first run had me thinking that I was going to be in the market for a new clutch. It slipped bad in first and most of the way through second, netting me a scorching 2.077 60'. I pulled back into the staging lanes and you could smell my clutch from 4-5 cars away. I still have the stench inside the car. My technique is to simply hold the car ~ 5,000 rpms and release the clutch very quickly in a smooth motion. I do not side-step or drop it. As I'm releasing the clutch I'm also feeding more throttle in.

Completely stock fuel system, but it is at the limit. I see ~ 96 - 97% IDC's on 11.76:1 gasoline equivalent AFR in high RPMs. I limit boost up top because of this.

Stage I (E-85) Car #5158 User name: biz77 date: 6/26/09 60' time: 1.792 1/4 mile time: 13.662 trap speed: 98.65 track: Spokane County Raceway elevation: 2,300 ASL temperature: 73 year of car: 2006 transmission MT/AT: MT turbo: stock octane of gas used: E-85 Water Injection yes/no: no Nitrous yes/no: no Tires/inflation pressure: 36 psi Other supporting modifications: None - Bone stock from the airbox to the tailpipes, including RE92's. The other lane is a 2008 stage I STI: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/biz77/IMG_0060-1.jpg

Not possible. Speakers can only fail via the two modes I mentioned above. A speaker does not care, nor can it discern if a signal is clipped or clean, it only reproduces what is fed into it. If you had a speaker with a melted voice coil, then you simply overcame the thermal limitations of the speaker.

Clipping will not kill a speaker. There is only two things that can kill a speaker. Too much instantaneous power, which = mechanical failure or too much average (long-term power), which = thermal failure. Things that DO NOT kill speakers: clipping distortion underpowering them

They said for enough money, they would do just about anything...

Agreed. There is just enough output above the cutoff to light road signs. The paint they use on road signs reacts to UV. High intenisity lighting casts WAY more UV than halogen so the road signs, road markers and paint on the roads lights up much better with HID vs. halogen.

Agreed. If you could offer a turn-key (brackets, wiring harness, relocation for the info display and finished bezel) relatively inexpensive (compared to your HVAC mod) to mount a double din unit in the cubby space, you could sell quite a few. I could personally see spending ~ $300 for something like that. Some (like me) will still prefer to get rid of the stock system and are willing to pay the extra for the HVAC mod.

You've probably seen fweasel's set-up, which is a well-modified stocker: http://www.photodump.org/stored3/booya.JPG

Sure, it looks wonderful if you like gaping holes between your dash pieces: http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a41/googalash/Car/DSC00989.jpg Notice the big gap on the bottom right which would be WAY more noticeable head-on and also notice the bottom left corner, which is hard to tell, but it doesn't quite fit in all the way. The JDM pieces are a completely unacceptable (IMO) fit in a USDM car. The only piece that works well is the single DIN piece that replaces the cubby

Your car doesn't need a re-tune to run 13's. That mph should be good for 13.7 or quicker with a 1.8 60'.

Do you just want to be able to plug the ipod into your stereo or do you want to be able to fully control the ipod from your stereo. If the former, your options are plenty.

Here you go: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74919

Talk to Highline. They do some really nice work. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/biz77/Legacy%20GT%20audio/head%20unit/IMG_0023.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/biz77/Legacy%20GT%20audio/head%20unit/IMG_0024.jpg I think that shows pretty well how much more slant there is on the left hand side of our center stack versus the right.

You guys do realize that the center stack is not completely symmetrical and cramming this into the dash will likely leave gaps in some spots and be too tight in other spots. By the way, no one has ever thought of this before: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55347 Here is a picture of the JDM center vent assembly installed into a USDM car. Notice the bottom left corner will not seat into the opening and there is a nice gap on the bottom right. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a41/googalash/Car/DSC00989.jpg I realize that this isn't the main center stack you are looking at, but trust me the cars are not symmetrical between RHD and LHD. Even if you get the electronics to work the unit will not fit without custom cosmetic work.

Here is a pic of my completed retro. I went a wee bit too far with the washers as you can see towards the beam center the cutoff becomes somewhat less focused, almost making the beam appear to arc across it's width. It does provide considerable color. I'm leaving it alone for now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v375/biz77/IMG_0006-1.jpg

Finally got around to retroing my RX330's over this long weekend. Thanks for the tutorial, MiniSTIGuy.

Just received my RX projectors. Just need to source my ballasts and bulbs. I hope to have mine done next month. Thanks for the write up. This should be a superior setup to the oem reflector setup on my STi.

And just two posts before yours:

So.... When do we get to see the rest of the install? If you spent this much time on the headunit then what else have you bestowed upon this lucky Legacy?

Thank you. This works fine through the painted plastic? Is it attached via magnet or???