ryans1000

post 85 is good info. I'll add my bit of info here -be prepared to have your car down for a couple days. one to let the rtv dry and also its not as simple as stated in some earlier posts. mainly because of how tight it is. take your time and do it right or your going to have to do the job twice. -remove insulation pad on passenger side frame rail to gain another 1/2" clearance -i did not jack up the motor but it was very tight. saves time to not loosen motor and tranny mounts but also slows you down working in a tighter space. not sure which way is faster -i did not remove underbody engine cover, but did open the oil filter access panel to clean up spilt oil -jack up the one side of the car to spill less oil -order the two passenger side valve cover vent/equalization hoses on older cars as they are likely to break. both of mine on my 05' GT were corroded on and broke during removal and were not in stock at subaru. the extra heat of the turbo wears down hoses and gaskets. My 2005 gt part numbers were 99071AC010 $10.22 (front) and 99071AC020 $41.22 (rear/firewall/longer hose) -DO use rtv along with the new gaskets. Some have questioned if they really need to use it and I think you do. I used Permatex ultra black. -keep track of which valve cover bolt goes where, there are two different styles of bolts. Sharpie labeled zip lock bags is my preferred method of organization. -be careful when changing spark plugs if they have not been removed before. loosen them a half turn and tighten them again and repeat to break up gunk and clear the threads to avoid cross threading. my original 150k plugs looked pretty good still but I threw in new ones. -NOTE don't mix up the 2 coil pack connectors during reinstall. the white connector is for the front and the rear connector has more black