jayrex

Which ones? 2 and 4?

yup.

Nice thread so far! Keep up the good work.

What forged pistons are you considering?

I'm at basically the same point in my build. Have, not one, but TWO pistons with cracked ringlands! I guess after finding one it doesn't really matter how many others are cracked.

Waiting to hear from the machine shop about my bores. Not sure if I will need stock 99.5mm or oversized. Should find out in a couple days.

Not sure how much research you've gotten into with the forged pistons, but I found this link to give a clear explanation, pros and cons, ect..

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570

I know its ebay, but not technically 'ebay parts' and they are a good price:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Forged-Pistons-99-5mm-Bore-std-9-0-CR-Subaru-STI-2004-2013-K598M995AP-/291016141441?hash=item43c1e9ea81:g:KyoAAMXQWzNSeThQ&vxp=mtr

Those are 9.0 CR, but I was thinking of going E85, as it is avail in my area.

Here's a link to my thread if you want to compare CARnage, I'd love to see some of your pics:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-05-lgt-engine-and-5eat-rebuild-251549.html

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

Little info for the diff:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/questions-5eat-diff-fluid-change-123391.html

Sorry, I can't find any good threads right now for the trans fluid, but you are going to do a partial replace of the trans fluid, ~8qts. 2 qts at a time. Drain it from the cooler hoses (drivers side - going into the bottom part of the radiator) Fill it back thru the Trans dipstick tube. Careful not to fill the front diff, similar dip stick on the other side, same location. It will say 'diff' on it if its the diff dip stick.

Do some more searching here and on the googlez. But that's the basic procedure you're looking for. A full flush is not advised and involves draining the trans pan (unnecessary, and more of a headache getting all the air out)

Its messy.

 

You will almost certainly not need to go any deeper than reverse. Don't touch reverse or beneath it the forward clutch pack, as those do not get worn out (reverse for obvious reasons, forward for the non obvious reason that it's always locked up so it doesn't have any realistic way of wearing out).

 

So do I need to get 'past' the reverse and forward packs, just to get to the low coast clutch? Or are you saying I likely don't need to touch that one either? Obviously I'd love to take as little apart as possible, but I definitely don't want to waste my time opening it up again. The only time the trans slips is high revs in 3, 4, 5th.

Ref link:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...g-pdf/5EAT.pdf

 

another delay... the last two clutch packs appear to be held in by 3 T45 torx bolts. One of these 3 bolts requires a long (2.5" +) T45 bit. So another small tool to buy...

There is nothing in the FSM about these last 2 clutch packs. As if there was never a thought one might want to get at them. So I'm without a manual, and just making it up as I go at this point.

 

If so do I need the Long T45 bit then?

I'm going to start a build thread once I get it opened up, and have some pics, so everyone can see the carnage.

I might even shoot some video for you guys too.

I'll edit a link to it here once I start that up. Doing the engine at the same time too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html