YeuEmMaiMai

Dealer contacted Subaru of America, they are not covering transmission even though car has under 100k in mileage. Car was manufactured Sept 18,2009.

 

I understand that point of it, but not happy.

 

Dealer ordered new torque converter form local area Subaru dealer and will replace free of charge. I am hoping this is the issue. Dealer spoke with 2 Subaru technicians and was told that was the problem with the squeaking sound while driving.

 

Fingers are crossed . Will keep you posted.

 

Thanks,

Peter

what is the In Service Date on your invoice? it is 10 years 100K from date of first sale, not manufacture...

for my car the In Service date is October 23 2013. So the warranty will expire on October 22, 2013 for the CVT.

I think the issue here is you have a very misleading title. If you want to tell your story tell it. Don't make your title and half of your post read as if you are asking for advice.

 

If you want to do a write up on how to perform a maintenance on your car make a dedicated thread and include pictures. If the community and the mods deem it useful they will pin it in the appropriate thread for all to reference.

read the very last sentence of my OP, clearly states that I think dealer had a boat payment due and the question was in regards to coils and what people thought vs dealer advice of auto change (via their quote)

ya'll be reading too much into it and not be taking the time to actually read what was posted

so if you know how to do it, whats the point of this thread? do it yourself and let the dealership rape someone else

the point of the thread was quite clear, might want to read the original post were I specifically stated what it was...and were I also stated I changed my own plugs

here is a refresher

Needless to say I was like not this time....as I changed my own plugs and left the original coils in place.

when I did my plugs i used a socket 5/8 and 6" extension and ratchet

1. remove intake track (all of it) from left side (standing in front of car looking at engine) will need to unplug MAF and remove the harness from holding spot on intake box.

2. un-clip power steering hose and unbolt power steering tank and set aside

3. starting with front plug, unbolt coil pack and lay aside. I put the bolt in a metal magnet tray.

4. insert spark plug socket into said hole.

5. insert extension into said hole and attach it to spark plug socket

6. attach ratchet to extension and crack plug loose

7. remove ratchet from extension and use fingers to unscrew plug

8. lift up on extension slightly and remove said plug

9. insert new plug into socket, place into hole

10. insert extension into socket and hand thread plug in until it stops

11. attach ratchet and finish tightening down plug plus 1/4 turn

12. remove extension and socket

13. place coil pack back onto plug

14. replace screw

15. reinstall power steering tank and re-clip hose

16. install intake track and re-plug and re-clip MAF sensor

repeat for rear cylinder

Driver side is a bit more entertaining as you have to un-clip the AC and brake line and slide them back a bit so your socket and ext clear them. Also strongly recommend removing said battery to make it easier

do the above steps minus ps tank and intake

IMHO it is not worth it to unbolt the mounts and jack the engine up...

I would only do a coil when they are broken, unless while you are changing the plugs a coil look suspect. (rusted heated sinks that are starting to expand)

Other than being slightly dirty, they were fine, no oil stains or anything like that....

Tire diameter alone does not dictate ride comfort and handling. The 7th-generation Legacy has a significantly larger tire diameter than, say, the 5th-generation, and if you make the tire diameter larger while keeping the wheel size the same, the sidewall has to get bigger.

 

The stock 17" tire on the 2014 car was a 215/50R17. The 2020 car has a 225/55R17, which has a 17% taller sidewall than the older car. Even the 2020 car's 18" wheels have a 5% taller sidewall than the 2014 car's 17" wheels. Because of the sidewall difference, the 2014 Legacy 17" tire would feel firmer/harsher than the 2020 Legacy's 18" tire.

 

So, yes, going to larger-diameter wheels does mean a shorter tire sidewall, but what is "ideal" is going to depend on your starting point and what you are trying to achieve.

 

Dan

Mach V

FastWRX.com

Those are practically rubber bands. you are going feel it when you run a fly over... and compared to 17's on the same car they are definitely harsher...

Yes, I have 17's on my 14 and they are demonstrably harsher riding than a 13/14/ legacy with the stock 16". The wheels have to be the same overall diameter so more rim = less side wall which equates to less flex and shock absorption

Also, comparing different generations of said car is pointless as there is suspension changes as well often within the same generation.

My old Acura CL-S rode on 225 50R17 and you felt it over harsh pavement.

on smooth roads, yeah not really a difference....but on broken roads or !!! dirt, you gonna notice...and on my 14 I wear 225 55 R17 a slight improvement over the original 215 55 R17

OK,

Dealer wanted to do my plugs at 60K and quoted me some outrageous price for plugs,, wires, and coils.... My co worker was just quoted $650,,,

Needless to say I was like not this time....as I changed my own plugs and left the original coils in place.

Now from my experience, you only change coils when broken so what say ye all?

1994 honda accord went 209K on original coil

1998 honda accord v6 had 100K on it with original coils

2003 acura cl type S had 148K on it with original coils

2003 subaru legacy has 142k on original coil

2014 legacy has 68K on original coils

I am pretty sure they had a boat payment due....

How much dough are they asking? I would feel nervous taking a chance on a car with that many miles... but then again if it's a stick shift that would be more trustworthy.

$4900 and I am not going above $4K for it

The 3.6R and 5EAT should easily hold up to 200k-300k miles with proper maintenance, but that's a lot of mileage for the age, roughly 35k per year. That's almost 3 times per year what the manufacturer warranty accounts for, so depending on price and service history, I'd be wary.

 

But, if the service history looks good and the price is low, it could be a good buy. Few things I'd check right away would be spark plugs and coil packs, PCV valve, trans and diff fluids (both should be fine with drain and fills), and then obviously the other new-buy fluids and checks you'd do with any car. But realistically, there is no common failure of the EZ36 and 5EAT. They're a very stout setup.

only reason i am giving it thought is at that kind of mileage, it has to be mostly highway....

1. after you fill the car, let it sit for 5 mins and check oil

2. Then start car run it for a minute and check for leaks

3. let car sit for 5 mins and check oil again and add as needed.

when filling the car with oil it will take a bit for it to drain from the head into the sump

as for the crush washer, it typically sticks the the head of the bolt...

If it's on the same platform as the 2019 Forester, the rear swaybar is now in front of the rear axle.

question is can you get it out with out dropping the drive shaft?

as for tires

17" are about right in terms of ride comfort and handling.. doing larger wheels = increased harshness as the sidewall will not absorb as much,, get on some rough pavement and you will immediately know what is up.

When you say engine mounts are you referring to the sub-frame spacers/bushings? I'm also curious about the difference in the springs if anyone knows,

no, the front mount

assuming 2.5l

here is a thread about it

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/lifted-legacyi-263082.html

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2016_Outback-25L-CVT-Base/_54102_6464105/ENGINE-MOUNTING-FRONT/B15-410-02.html

where did you find the time and money to test all of the available LED kits? As a drop-in, the newer LED offerings use a narrower set of LEDs that more closely captures the shape/position of the filament in the bulbs they replace - I would think they'd be very good... certainly the reviews suggest they are.

It's called youtube.com might want to use it.... ever wonder why oem do not use those solutions? Because they do not last... they use robust large heat sinks...so that light output is consistent no matter how long they are on...