vanman

So we were able to diagnose that the problem is before the relay. Adding 12V to one of the tabs lights up the tail lights. In another forum, people have said that the switch on top of the steering column is the issue. Anybody know how to get that off? I haven't looked yet because it's really my sons' car and I get a backache just think about it.

My son’s OBXT stopped on the freeway one time in a pouring rain. Turns out the air filter was really dirty and then with the rain, it didn’t allow enough air in and the car would start. After the air filter was changed, it started right up.

 

 

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It turns out the lathe ideal wasn't so good. The harden nub in the bucket would just ground down the stone and eventually clog up. A better solution was to use the drill press and randomly move the bucket so that not not just one area would get the grinding, like a random orbital sander.

Thanks. It’s very rewarding when it actually started. I drove it on a 200 mile round trip yesterday and everything ran great. There’s a small coolant leak on the turbo side. We’ll tighten up all the coolant lines on that side this weekend.

 

We’ll look into the BtSsm.

 

 

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Yes after the grinding. Another one discolored to blue. I’ve had this happen when I was drilling out a stainless steel baffle for a silencer. I think it is self hardening. For the baffle it got so hard that I couldn’t drill it out even with titanium bits.

 

The problem I’ve been having is that the grinding stone gums up with metal and then there’s just 2 smooth surfaces and it heats up. I might have the speed up too high. I’m going to try and slow it down tomorrow.

 

 

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Here’s my set up. I’m using my brother in laws wood lathe. I chucked the bucket into the jaws and chucked the grinding stone.

 

What do think about this discoloration on the bucket?

 

 

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One last question. Did you just grind them with the stone and that was it, or did you try to polish them at all.

 

 

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I posted a second question at the same time. Should I grind them slightly smaller?

 

 

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I’m going to revive this thread a second time. How did your valve buckets hold up? Was your engine stock? I need 10 buckets for a 400+ hp build, should I just bite the bullet and spend $300 for them or take a chance and grind some buckets down?

 

Second question, if I grind or buy should I get them 0.02mm smaller or right on spec?

Sorry for the delay. I have another project and I had to see what buckets I needed. I'm going to send my exchanges back to you with all my extras. Unfortunately, they all are high number buckets, 496 and up.

My heart sank. Three weeks ago, I was test driving the car after changing the oil after 50 miles. I had notice a small amount of coolant coming from the driver side before I took the test drive. The car started to sputter and then died. It would restart for about 2 seconds and then die again. I had to trailer it home. At least it started enough so that I could at least lurch it up the trailer. I was so dejected that I gave up on it for a while and then the cold set in.

 

I finally got back to it yesterday. I checked the oil and it was clean and right at the full line. So now I'm hopeful that it wasn't a blown head gasket. I thought maybe fuel related and I checked the fuel lines and everything looked ok. I then checked the vacuum lines and everything looked ok. Then I noticed the intake to the throttle had slipped off. That made me a lot happier. 10 minutes of finagling the intercooler around to get it on the throttle, it started right up. I tightened up the lower radiator hose and everything is good there now.

 

Now on to the WRX.

Got the connectors. Instead of spicing the connector in, I just took it apart and used the existing pins to repin the connector. There are YouTube’s for this. Make sure the colored wire is towards the tab, the black wire is on the other end and the black/yellow wire is in the middle. I mixed it up initially and still had a misfire.

 

 

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I looked at the connector and the yellow piece that should be up front is gone. Also, it looks like the pins are just wiggling around inside the connector. I ordered some and they should be here tomorrow.

I had an initial p0700 code (transmission). I had it cleared. I checked the transmission fluid and it looked good. It hasn’t returned.

 

A few hours later, I got a cylinder 3 misfire code. I think I have a broken connector. Hopefully that will be it.

 

 

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It started right up. It sounds good. There was smoke that I thought would clear up but it didn’t. We traced it to the infamous performance oil line. And specifically the oil filter. It turns out it wasn’t tighten down. It still took 20 mins for the residual oil to burn off but there doesn’t appear to be anymore leaks.

 

The group n motor mounts and the pitch stop seem to make the OBXT more responsive.

 

There’s still a CEL. I’ll go to O’Reillys tomorrow to check it out and maybe reset it.

 

 

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It cranks over. I’ll wait until my son gets off work to start it. I cranked it until the oil light went off.

 

 

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Found this from MaxCapacity in 2014

 

He said to check the ground at the posts to the far left (left of the heater hoses connection). So I checked them and there was no wire that I could see attached to them. Also the nuts were only finger tight. So I look for the grounding cables in that area and I don’t see them. Then I look closer and I see some connectors attached to the posts going in towards the engine. So I decide to just tighten the nuts up. Voila la. No more error code.

 

I haven’t started the car yet because during my research, I found out that the cylinders 1 and 3 ignition plugs are switched. It’s suppose to be white to the front.

 

 

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We are so frustrated now. We went to start her up and we get an Er HC. I researched it and there doesn’t appear to be any definitive fix. One person on Reddit changed his whole wiring harness, another found faulty ground, another found a sb7 fuse blown.

 

How many ground points are there? I know of 3, one on each side of the heads and the one near the starter. The driver side ground was actually broken before and I just repaired it today.

 

 

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I’m no GT expert but that doesn’t look like my engine bay. Can you share the listing?

 

 

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We were putting things together when I remember that we had to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter. Well of course the bolt hole didn’t line up. After some thought, my son was able to probe the flex plate hole feeling for the torque converter bolt hole while I rotated it with a screwdriver from below. Once the first one was in, the rest were easy. I had left the bottom cover off as some have suggested. Good thing I did otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to rotate the torque converter.

 

 

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Got the engine back in. It took some jostling because we don’t have a cherry picker, just a chain fall wrapped around a rafter.

 

 

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I was able to get a hefty screwdriver into the engine stand, the flex-plate and a crevices in the engine to hold the crank. And then it was easy to get 133 ft lb on it.

We're only using them so they don't throw a CEL. I found out they're same part as a throttle position sensor and found one for $10 plus shipping.

 

We put the rear seal on....twice. I put it in with a mallet the first time and it went in too deep and cockeyed. I to tear it up to get it out.

 

Any suggestions to tighten the crank/harmonic balancer bolt on an automatic transmission?

I found one for $20. It turns out that it the same as the throttle position sensor.

We broke the TGV sensor near the turbo.

Will this suck air through it? Or can I just glue it back together. I’ve done the tgv semi deletes by taking the flaps out.

 

 

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