xrayspecs

Pictures of it all?

Finally got some more free time to installing some more parts that I've been sitting on for a while.

 

Bought all new bulbs for the jdm parts as no clue how old the bulbs are for the headlamps/fogs and dont want them just randomly going out or dimming on me.

 

Hella Yellow H3 bulbs for the Fogs, These were a pain to install as the whole assembly is behind stuff I didnt want to remove...

 

Installed them throught the fog shroud trim.

 

Night shot against my garage door, so far like how they look at night.

 

This is the first time I've had HID headlamps in anything. These were way expensive. Went with the Pillips Units. replaced the Highbeams with Silvania h1's nothing crazy there.

 

New bulb on the left old bulb on the right, both old bulbs had signs of age on them when they came out.

 

Night shot against the garage door, note the cut off being in the incorrect direction. at some point ill bake the lights and black out the cut off so I dont blind oncoming traffic, but not today.

 

Also got some cheap matte black plate frames, matches the black trim and car.

 

Look pretty good on the car.

 

Front plate is a bit off... thanks too the JDM from plate spacing for nuts is

wider. Plate frame helps hid the obvious fact that I had to redrill the front to make it fit. I plan to get vanity plates this summer, and when they come in ill make a bracket so that I dont have to do this to that plate.

 

Understandable, I had the same thought when I went through and started ordering stuff.

 

Ill do my best to explain below. I have attached RS-3 for clarity, All the refernces that are made will be in relation to this page from the Subaru USDM FSM. Pictures and my personal comments on installing all of the below items can be found https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/el-chupacabra-x-rays-2002-l-sedan-5mt-266376p3.html starting at the start of the page.

 

 

Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings p/n KTA124. Replaces item 7, 9, and 20 on RS-3.

Replaces Subaru part numbers as follows, 20250AE01A (2), 20250AW06A (2).

 

Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit KCA307. Replaces item 8, 10, 2.

Replaces Subaru part numbers 20560AA011 (2), 901700122 (2), 903100171 (2)

 

 

Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing W63397. Replaces item 19.

Replaces Subaru part number 20254AE040 (2).

 

Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing p/n W63396. Replaces item 18.

Replaces Subaru part number 20254AE01A (2).

 

Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing p/n W63394. Replaces item 12. Replaces Subaru part number 20254AE02A (2).

 

Whiteline control arm lower front bushing p/n W63398. Replaces item 13. Replaces Subaru part number 20254AE03A (2).

 

Whiteline diff cradle bushing front p/n KDT906. Not shown on RS-3. Replaces Subaru part number 41310AJ00A (1).

 

Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set PFR69-417. Not called out on RS-3, however item 21 points directly to location. Replaces Subaru part number 20152AE00B (This is the whole subframe part number cant find the individual bushing part number).

 

Whiteline diff rear bushing KDT905. Not called out on RS-3. Replaces subaru part number. Replaces Subaru part number 4132AE01D (2).

 

Hope this helps!

Well, some bad news today, had the day off, and decided to catch up on some maintance on my Honda. Had some time left and decided since I don't have reciepts or any idea when the fluids for the gearbox and diff were last serviced that I should do them. As ive now got 1400 miles on the car. When I first got the car driving, the gear box did not like to go into 1st or reverse, especially when cold and just started. Engine was also due for a oil change, and filter. No suprises there.

 

As this was a full oils change, put the whole car up on stands level.

 

Where the bad news starts. I pulled the drain plug for the Trans.

 

Well there's the cuplrit of the stubborness to go into gear. odd as theres been no whining/popping out of gear or other hiccups.

 

Well its still not great as this came from somewhere. After the state of all the other mechanical items I receieved the car in I guess that I should have checked the transmission and diff. Thats on me for not being more stringent after the blown motor in the car.

 

Man the smell of burnt and old 90w makes my spine shiver. Who knows how many miles this has on it, it was about the viscosity of old motor oil. I filled it back up with new 80w-90w to the fill line.... I guess time will tell if the transmission will stay together.

 

Lucky the rear diff seams to be in better shape. Thats good news if I have to use the 3.9 transmission out of the 02 I can swap the VLSD center over.

N

 

Not perfect, and probably over due for a change, but not terrible for a rear end with 186k on it.

 

After fill up took it for a quick 20 mile drive and everything seams to be okay. Not sure where the chunks came from, but im sure ill find out soon enough.

I went all aftermarket with all the bushings on my 02/01 for the suspension.

 

Parts list for the rear suspension on aftermarket polymer. Went with all whiteline, and powerflex since whiteline doesnt make the subframe bushings.

 

Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings p/n KTA124

Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit p/n KCA307

Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing p/n W63397

Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing p/n W63396

Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing p/n W63394

Whiteline control arm lower front bushing p/n W63398

Whiteline diff cradle bushing front p/n KDT906

Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set p/n PFR69-417

Whiteline diff rear bushing p/n KDT905

I just wanted to say I feel your affliction for these particular models. I am probably 15 grand of replacement parts into a 5spd 2006 outback XT. I just couldn’t let it die. Soon everything will be electric and this was the last of a dying breed of manual trans old school turbo spooling, mechanical AWD, sporty wagon. Good on you for going the extra mile to save one.

 

brave man admitting to what youve sunk into a old car! im in a similar boat with mine.

 

I have also very much enjoyed seeing the updates on this one.

After I got this legacy when I pulled the motor the rear main was leaking, can confirm unless your doing a new engine build or the rear main is leaky I would just leave it be on the motor.

 

Where most of the oil will be from a leaky rear main, check on the top of the steering rack and the top side of the subframe under the trans mount, there should be a inspection plate on the top side oposite the clutch (little plastic plug), and theres a small metal inspection plate/dust cover on the bottom that can be pulled. its attahced to the motor. If the rear main is leaking it should be obvious when you pull the lower cover.

 

What the transmission and top of the subframe will look like when you have a rear main leak.

 

The bottom inspection plate on the pulled motor that had the leaky rear main. you can see the oil residue build up, this should be what you look for when you pull the plate.

 

 

 

 

Parts diagram location of the plate.

https://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B12_01101050.png

 

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/49239115__6024575/FLYWHEEL/B12-011-01.html

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy22L-MT-4WDL-WAGON/COVER-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-HOUSING/49239115/30216AA030.html

I had some automotives installed for around 30k miles, they worked great for me. At this point if you just want to keep the car going, find a set of the oem green cups at a wrecker and just rebuild them with new grease and boots doing that should get you pretty far.

 

Ive held onto 2 sets of green cup fronts that just need a grease and boot rebuild just as shelf spares incase.

Didnt get to the front sway bar links till last night, all 4 of the links in the kit from kartboy take a larger 17mm bolt top and bottom the backs went on no problem. The front lowers on the stamped arms takes a 12mm bolt. This required drilling out the arms to 7/16" to clear the shank on the larger fastener, and a little massaging to open up the location to fit the wider bushing on the kartboy's.

 

Size difference on the oem fronts vs the kartboy.

 

drilling out the lower link bolt location

 

How much the swaybar location needs to be massaged.

 

Installed with the kartboy front endlink spacers on against the bar to keep the link perpendicular to ground.

 

Took the car on a quick rip around the industrial park by my house, the cross chassis stiffness these add is definattly noticable especially when going through rain gutters while turning.

So more small parts came in this week and have slowly put them on as time permits.. i have updated the parts list accordingly. These will probably be the last parts added for a while, the time has come to enjoy this car!

 

The rear wheel needed to come out a bit more so that it looked less tucked, this has always been a problem with these cars, people all handle it differently, but I added some 5mm spacers to the rear to get a more aggressive fitment of the rpf1. Went with

Fastwrx Mach v spacers, little disappointed with them as the description and pictures show they have a laser engraved part number, and thickness on the spacer so you dont have to measure them if you forget what they are in the future. these ones only had the bcd, and it was just silkskreened. they fit fine and work as intended.

 

Before rear wheel.

 

After with 5mm spacers on a 17x8+45 RPF1. probably could do another 3mm to get a tighter to the fender, but im happy as is for now.

 

I also picked up some center caps for the RPF1's.... well did the 2" electrical knockout plugs from the hardware store. they fit great, and dont missmatch tobad with no paint. Ill have to make some decals on my cricuit for them so they match better.

 

installed on the RPF1's you do need to spread the ears out a tad to get them to stay tight.

 

Also picked up some Vorshlag subaru lug nuts, the oem ones I've been using are getting a little worn out and the cheap aftermarket ones that came on the car were crunchy at best.

 

Also picked up some kartboy parts for the sway bars and to replace the rusty battery strap. they even came with the fireball!

 

Installed battery strap.

 

Comparison of the rear sway links vs the kartboy links.

 

Rear links installed.

 

Had some help moving the car around!

More updates!

 

After getting a dozen tanks of gas though this and the roofrack and moonroof deflector off, managing to get an average of 23 MPG combined. not as good as the 02, but ill chalk that up to the 4.11's. would be nice to have the 3.90's on the freeway, but withough finding another OEM LSD or buying an aftermarket unit to put in the open 3.90 its not worth the effort right now.

 

Took some degreaser to the underside of the hood and engine bay to get any spots I missed or touched when putting the car together.

 

Before.

 

After, still not perfect but much improved.

 

Big news thought! finally got the car rolled, front and rear! Went on a recomendation from some local car people I know. the guy was great to work with. Talking with him while he worked he thought it was cool to see this car as not a lot of them are around. He did say that with a little camber and work the chassis could fir 265's on 17x9's... but that would require a really agressive offset, and a pull on the front fenders.

 

But now I can run my 235's with no wory of shreadding them or the fenders! Car is looking so much better to me now!

 

The fit on the front is perfect, I'm thinking a 5mm spacer in the rear will bring it out to where Its flush as well.

pictures?

For the brakes, could you do the Caddilac Brembo swap?

 

Yeah ive looked at that for the front, from what I can find the RPF1's I have will clear the fronts. Biggest problem ive got is I want to stay on 17's, they look good on this chassis, good balance of wieght to grip, lets me run a good amount of sidewall for the freeway, I can clear them on this car without having to go and have the fenders pulled, plus I dont want to have to buy 18's. There are some options I'm looking at, all depends what pops up for sell when I'm going to install.

Car looks great.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Thanks! I really like how it looks with the JDM parts.

After finishing up swaping parts and pieces from two cars to make one I have some duplicate parts that I dont plan to use and need to make space in my garage. I have the following items available for sale. All parts are used, with unk mileage came on the car, and are off the car ready for pick-up/meet-up. I accept PayPal (Preferred) or cash for local sales. All pricing will be plus shipping and PayPal fee if paying by PayPal.

 

So Cal Local to Riverside but willing to meet up within a reasonable distance.

 

Available Items:

KYB GR-2 Shocks with Tien S-tech lowering springs and 1" rear "saggy" but spacersd - used, unk miles no leaks. $250 (OBO) can be split for a fee as I dont own the tools to split.

Ebay/DNA EJ25 UEL SS Header - used, unk miles. $100 (OBO)

16" OEM 2.5 Legacy GT wheels 16", tires need replacement - used, unk miles. $500 (OBO)

17x8 et 47 PCD 5x100 & 5x114 Drag DR31 with Firestone Firehawks, currently on car will depth gauge them for anyone that wants to know all rims have curb rash- used, unk miles. SOLD ($650 offsite local)

Full OEM header, and cat back for a N/A EJ 25 minimul rust. - used, unk miles. Make an offer.

 

Also have a 2002 manual subaru legacy SEDAN, grey cloth interior and pieces that anyone is looking for, let me know and I can upload pictures and prices as requested.

No major updates on the car lately, been short staffed at work so I havent been able to take an afternoon to keep a appointment to have the fenders rolled... but more commuting i do the more i like how ive set the car up. needs some better brakes..

 

Im still loving how the car sits and looks for the most part!

 

Also picked up some bug/tar remover for the gummy silicon stuck to the roof from the melted roof rack pads. This stuff worked great.

As the original first posting is now out of date since now that I have a whole new car the 2001 Legacy GT-Limited. Its time to put together a new build parts list as not everything was moved over or reused between cars and milage

 

 

Purchased the 01 GT Limited sedan in October of 2021, its in great shape outside and in. Car had a non running engine, that I later found out had dropped 2 valves on cyl 4 and broke the rocker arm on cly 3. Cly 1 and 2 the cam was galled up. Took almost everything off my 02 from the previous posts and installed the parts onto the 01.

 

2001 Legacy GT-L Build sheet as of 04/05/2022.

 

I keep a detailed logbook and binder on the work/upgrades I've done on cars I own, makes it easier to keep the hagglers at bay when you go to sell. So i've compiled everything I have installed and added into a list here and the milage it was installed at, milage all updated to reflect the 01 odometer readings. Previous car milage added as a note if the parts had use on them already.

 

Chassis/Suspension:

Subframes/front and rear from 2002 moved to 2001 as complete units.

Timken Rear unit wheel bearings (p/n 512183 ) previous milage 28k installed at 183k miles.

Moog Tie Rod outer ends (p/n ES3715 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley Ball joints (p/n 101-4105 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley Tie Rods inner/rack bellows (p/n 101-7404 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline 55mm Inner LCA Bushings (p/n W51709 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline LCA Rear bushings (p/n W53515 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Whiteline Steering rack bushings (p/n KSR202 ) pervious milage 23k installed at 183k miles.

Cusco Racing rear strut tower brace (p/n 658 541 A ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.

Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 ) pervious milage 8k installed at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM steering rack from a +15MY STI (p/n 34110VA120 was supper-seeded by 34110VA121 ) at 183k

Subaru OEM steering U-Joint replacement from a +15MY STI (p/n 34170VA30 ) at 183k

Subaru OEM power steering pump from 2001 engine (p/n )

Gates Hoses high pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 365599 ) at 183k

Gates Hoses low pressure power steering hose assembly (p/n 352638 ) at 183k

Sunsong Soses reservoir suction hose (p/n 3403725 ) at 183k

Cardone power steering reservoir (p/n 3R363 ) at 183k

Motul Dextron III fluid for Power Steering (p/n 105776 ) at 183k

Derale 4 pass power steering cooler to increase fluid volume and cooling (p/n 259-13212 ) at 183k

Derale high temperature hose 11/32” x 25” to get cooler in front of radiator (p/n 259-13007 ) at 183k

Subaru power steering pump suction o-rings (p/n 34439AE00A ) at 183K

Whiteline adjustable rear lower tubular control arms with polymer bushings (p/n KTA124 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lock bolt kit (p/n KCA307 ) at 183k

Whiteline upper control arm outer bushing (p/n W63397 ) at 183k

Whiteline upper control arm inner bushing (p/n W63396 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lower rear outer bushing (p/n W63394 ) at 183k

Whiteline control arm lower front bushing (p/n W63398 ) at 183k

Whiteline diff cradle bushing front (p/n KDT906 ) at 183k

Powerflex rear sub-frame bushing set (p/n PFR69-417 ) at 183k

Whiteline diff rear bushing (p/n KDT905 ) at 183k

ARP 3" wheel stud kit from WRX 5x100 (p/n 100-7716 ) at 183K

 

Koni Yellows assembly part numbers below all installed at 183K:

Front Struts.

 

Rear Shocks

Whiteline 20mm sway bar X-Heavy (p/n WLBSR12XZ ) at unk came with car.

Whiteline 20mm sway bar heavy duty (p/n WLBSF14 ) at unk came with car.

Kartboy solid sway bar end links front and rear(p/n KB-017-Front KB-017-STi-R) at 185K.

Vorshlag 17mm hex lugnuts (p/n 12mm Hex M12-1.25) at 185k.

 

Engine:

Rebuilt heads and short block pervious milage 52k installed at 183k miles.

Standard spark plug wires (p/n 27577 ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

PCV Vacuum lines all easily accessible lines, replaced with plain vacuum lines from LPS pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

Felpro Valve cover gaskets (p/n VS50561R ) pervious milage 40k installed at 183k miles.

OEM Ignition coil (p/n 22433AA41A, UF240 ) pervious milage 35k installed at 183k miles.

Borla (p/n 17183 ) SS UEL header (p/n MS95088 ) pervious milage 24k installed at 183k miles.

Mishimotor Oil Drian Plug (p/n MMODP-2015B ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.

Cusco Radiator Shroud/Dress-up piece (p/n 684 003 AL ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles.

Fuel Filter and pressure lines replaced (p/n 33558 ) at 183k

Gates radiator hoses, top hose, bottom hose, and bypass hose (p/n 22495 , 22494 , 19535 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

Stant OEM thermostat (p/n 48457 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

Stant radiator cap oem pressure (p/n 10233 ) pervious milage 17k installed at 183k miles.

NGK Spark plugs (p/n BKR6Eix11 ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.

Standard parts Knock sensor replaced (p/n KS98T ) pervious milage 9k installed at 183k miles.

Timsert M8X1.25 Thread repair for power steering pump threads on block (p/n 1812 ) at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM intake filter (p/n 16546AA07A) at 183k miles.

Mahle throttle body gasket (p/n G31760 ) at 183k miles.

Felpro manifold gaskets and replacement 2 hole gaskets (p/n MS95088) at 183k miles.

Prestone premix 50/50 fluid for replacement at 183k miles.

Subaru OEM V belt AC 18x6x887 (p/n 809218260 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM AC Belt (p/n 73323AC000) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing belt large cover (p/n 13570AA12B) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing belt left side back cover (p/n 13575AA12A ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM timing crankshaft sprocket (p/n 13021AA17A ) at unk came with car.

Magnaflow muffler with 2.25” catback (p/n 14829 ) at unk came with car.

Kartboy battery tiedown (p/n KB-100-BT) at 185k

 

 

Drivetrain:

Centric Clutch hose replacement (p/n 1513.47004 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles.

Exedy OEM clutch Kit (p/n DKN KSB04 ), pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, and clutch disk pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Kartboy (p/n KB-003-Rear ), (p/n KB-003 ), 5MT Shifter bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Kartboy (p/n KB-025 ) Transmission mount bushings pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Standard Motor Parts new starter (P/N 17170 ) pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

Anchor Industries, rear transmission mount solid, filled in with 2 part urethane (p/n 9563 ) at 183k

Subaru Remanufactured OEM Axles (p/n 42072PA010) at unk came with car.

 

 

Brakes:

Subaru OEM rear brake disk (p/n HML020916 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM rear brake pad (p/n 26700AE04C ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM front brake pad kit (p/n 26296AE220 ) at unk came with car.

Subaru OEM front disc rotor (p/n 26300AE00C ) at unk came with car.

 

Interior:

Pioneer double din deck, custom pigtail made from oem/spare parts laying around (p/n AVH-P14000DVD ) at 183k

Grey Toyota Truck 5spd Hurst style ball knob (p/n PTR34-52080 ) pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles

Mob Armor Mob Mount Switch Magnetic Large in Desert Tan pervious milage 21k installed at 183k miles

 

Exterior:

DRL’s disabled from use at 183k

Replaced OEM horns with HELLA (p/n 003399801 ) Super tones pervious milage 18k installed at 183k miles

JDM Rev D, B4-RSK front clip, for fenders, bumper beam, bumper skin, aluminum hood, and headlights. fully replaced headlight harness to the JDM harness for pigtails at 183k

Subaru OEM REV D aero rain guards with OEM mounting hardware not 100% on the part number as the installation instructions list the following, and I can’t read the instructions (p/n J1017AE151## J1017AE152## J1017AE153## J1017AE154## J1017AE174## J1017AE155## J1017AE175## J1017AE156## J1017AE176## ) 183K

Subaru OEM Under splash cover (p/n SOA966H1100R1 ) at unk came with car.

Replacement Windshield (p/n 56410AW06A ) at unk came with car.

Replacement windshield molding (p/n FW02154GTNN ) at unk came with car.

All four coners fenders shaved and rolled at 185k.

Sylvania high beam bulbs (p/n H1ST.BP2 H1 ) at 185k.

Philips low beam bulb HID/Xeon bulbs (p/n D2R ) at 185k.

HELLA fog light bulb (p/n H3 YL ) at 185k.

License plate frame Matte black parts store special(p/n UNK) at 185k.

 

Wheels/Tires:

Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 5x100pcd

VENTUS V12 EVO2 - SIZE: 235/45ZR17 at 185k.

Fast WRX Mach 5 wheel spacer 5mm thick in the rear (p/n Mach V) at 185k

Halex 2 in knock-out seal for center cap (p/n 60720 ) at 185K

 

Spotted today 2/4 around noon at 14th and Olivewood in Riverside turning left onto 14th. nice black GT.

 

Well gotten about 700 miles in the car now as set up, I really like the spring rates, and konis together and all the polymer isnt so noisey it bugs me. I did get the roof rack off. The previous owner didnt have the keys for the roof rack so had to pick the locks to get them off.

 

Nothing like a small dyi pickset for the locks.

 

The soft feet on the roof rack have started to get gummy and sticky. If i put the rack back on they will have to be replaced as they are coming apart. they left a ton of residue on the paint. Havent gotten it all off but theres probably some damage to the paint from the bases. The moonroof deflector also has left some paint damage where the seal is up against the paint.

 

Car looks much more put together with no rack or deflector. Car needs a deep clean and a wax now for the paint.

The BH should have the same partnumber as the BE, youll have to comfirm fitment on the following are the part numbers and location for each of the parts i used on the front wheel bearings for my USDM BE. Not sure on the hub assembly as I reused my OEM hub flange.

 

Timken front wheel bearings both sides (p/n 517008 )

Timken front wheel bearing retainer C clips both sides (p/n RET176 )

SKF front inner and outer wheel seals both sides (p/n 22026 & 22032 )

Beck/Arnley replacement spindle nuts for the front (p/n 103-0504 )

Not sure if you mean an actual BAR ref or a smog here, they are different. you have to smog annually in CA, a BAR ref is only if you get a fix it ticket from an Peace officer, or get flagged at a SMOG station. I've never had an issue with headers. I have a OBD scanner I use to make sure that the ECU checks are all green/okay. All OBDII cars only get a visusal check (which can varry depending on how bored the guy is) and a computer scan for the OBD monitors. Its not that difficlut to pass as long as you check before you go in.

More small updates, took the car to get smoged for reg, after pulling the car in the smog guy had 100 questions on the car cause of how stiff it is. Car passed smog no problem.

 

After some looking around online, and seeing most of the decent sub 1k carplay head units were currently sold out or backordered. Decided to pull the older Pioneer head unit out of the 02 and put it in the 01. It was neat to have the OEM unit, but I need to have an Aux input for long commutes.

 

OEM double Din unit.

 

Pioneer unit pulled out of the 02.

 

Removing the shifter bezel and trim, found some missing clips.

 

To the 02 in the garage to pull off the missing clips.

 

Shifter rubber seal properly held down again.

 

Bezzle trim clips added back.

 

New old head unit installed and ready to go. The speakers sound way better with this unit that the oem unit, at somepoint ill upgrade to carplay, and get sone nice aftermarket speakers and sub/amp.

.

 

Have an appointment coming up with someone to roll the fenders all around so thatll be the next big work.

More of just driving this old car. Currently waiting a date to get the fenders rolled. Continually impressed with how well it handles.

 

Drove the 243 and 74. Cars driving flawlessly now with the correct throttle body.

 

 

In the FSM, floats on item (8) and item (25) are both "floats". 8 is the fuel level sensor, and 25 is the fuel sub level sensor. see the attached.

Two more checklist items that are small nucesnces to me got the parts in to address. Throttle body gasket and pump orings.

 

The power steering pump still has a whine when cold and on turn in loads. The reservoir is also foaming quite a bit. As all the soft lines were changed to new on the systems, and the pump I installed measured in spec for shaft play. It was relativley quick to get the pump suction snout off and the orings off. They were so crispy they just broke the moment I put an oring removal tool on them. If you have a cold start power steering pump whine I would start with these orings, they were $4.31 from the dealer p/n 34439AE00A.

New orings went right on and in, no more power steering pump whine now. glad that it is fixed and didnt need to get another pump to swap.

 

Next onto the throttle body swap. The ECU doenst like the throttle body and idle air control valve from the 02. and contines to throw idle error codes. Looking at the harnesses and the digrams I was hoping that he two engine connector plugs wouldnt be loomed togehter, but they are.

Wiring loom from the 01 engine in the garage off.

 

Some of the differences between 02 to 01 on the air cleaner box, the PCV system routing pieces.

The 01 has a sensor on the box, and an additional molded spot for the PCV lines.

PCV y splitter for the extra PCV line on the air box

The 02 doenst have them.

 

Both wiring looms out.

 

Kept the 02 throttle body on till everything was ready to go, so the coolant lines dont drip everywhere in the engine bay.

 

Close up you see the difference in the throttle bodys.

 

The 02 throttle body the ECU didnt like.

 

The 01 throttle body so the EUC will be happy and the car will stop running rich/rough/idleing high.

 

The only connector that ill have to swap is the power steering pump pressure switch plug, the 01 has a 2 pin connector the plug connector from the 02 has a single pin connector. No codes are being thrown so not to worried about this connector for now.

 

Took the better part of a day to swap the engine harness but now the car idles as it should at 750ish, doesnt studder or die when cold started. It also doesnt smell like its running super rich. This should improve the MPG ive been seeing too.

 

Left on the check list for things to do are all minor items now.