robinlsb

need recommendations on a good place to do timing belt service on 2005 let thank.

And yeah, I still have it (15 plus years) and it's still more fun than a barrel of monkeys. Robin

Where about in MA are you Boston, Springfield, By the NY state line, or may be above Worchester ?

Northeast ma

Any ideas??? 2005 legacy gT

Second belt

Sorry my English can be rusty at times. Measuring ohms with my dvm, open circuit would say OL or something similar, while close circuit (two leads against each other) read 0.000. Not 100% on units of measurements, need a new battery before I can check again.

 

I would get the OL when testing anything on the rear diff, even 2 inches apart. I also got OL when testing two points on the axle and two point on the knuckle. The thing is so rusty that it would register as an open loop.

 

I did test resistance in the engine bay, random engine spots against the body and I would get anything from OL to varying levels of resistance.

Sigh:lol:

Whole point of analogies, taking two objects that folks are more familiar with .

 

I got under my Forester with a DVM and was trying to measure the resistance between the rear diff and the body and axles. Since it is also rusty (though not as bad as my legacy), results were not good, unlimited resistance. Heck even doing two points on the diff also proved to have unlimited resistance.

Unlimited resistance,means NO resistance. If there is NO resistance,then you cannot have a capacitor effect. Same is true of no contact resistance .

I wonder with the tolerances being closer its more sensitive to dust/electricity/etc. Kind of like an AR15 will jam well before an AK-47.

An AK is not an AR is not a wheel bearing:lol:

Sgt.Gator, I don't believe most of the damage is caused by static electricity, I would point my finger to alternator/battery and they are just trying to find path of least resistance.

 

 

 

While I love Timken bearings and use them, if you have an inherit design flaw they will fail too. Boxkita mentioned in another thread, which sparked this thread, that he's tried every brand of wheel bearings and they all don't last in racing application.

 

I and a bunch of people I know race FWD SR20 Nissans and bearing issues are just not existent. Bearing issues are usually from users fault, like removing axle constantly and not replacing the bearing seal. Since it is FWD, rear is not connected to the engine, thus rear bearings just about never go out.

It's not a design flaw,it's a cost flaw.Tapered bearings and shafts are much more expensive to manufacture. One requires close tolerance tapers,the other just requires a close tolerance shaft.

Tapered bearings can withstand much higher loads than spherical bearings.But they cost loads more to manufacture..

Well,there are two possible solutions.Buy Timken or just put up with it.There are just not enough amps to create metal degradation.

On the other hand,my experience with high RPM kart motors is that the slightest bit of rust or contaminate can score a bearing. In other words,use NASA type cleanliness when installing bearings.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Fun3/aAVDN49_460s.jpg

One of my heroes.

dont hate the wacky winter setups, i love rockin my neon green stock wheels.

Wow, they are butt ugly:lol: But I am sure they show less dirt;)

Sorry...moved up from Texas where everything is brown almost two years ago.

 

For there being so many Subarus up here, I'm surprised that there aren't that many modded ones. Also, it is much harder to tell if someone is a fan or not up here. You would never catch an old lady in a wrx in texas like you see up here.

How true, you would find it very difficult to keep up with this old lady in my LGT

Steven D, white legacy gt wagon.

 

http://vermontracing.com/1/cache/hill/2012_burke/IMG_1463_1024.jpg

 

 

Vid of my encounter with deer in my non turbo impreza

 

Jeepers! Killington SCC is still around. I did that hill climb 45 years ago!

and some of us are quickly approaching 40

Some of us passed that 40 mark a score of years ago. Don't blink, you will be "elderly" before you know it.

I have cad drawings for pretty much every peice on this car.

I could easily make lasercut lists for the parts,

the only difficult thing is the headders but with a jig they could be reproduced.

 

this kit would allow the use of any 3.8 or 3800 front wheel drive block with the exception of the headders because they have diffrent style flanges.

 

a sereis 2 95 and newer 3800 has 205 hp n/a and like 280 ft-lbs replacement entire engine is like 300$

series 2 supercharged have 240hp and like 340 ft lbs tq

series 2 supercharged engine changed to turbo will have 300hp at the same boost level as the supercharged.

What is the weight of the Buick motor/drivetrain versus the Subie????????

I'm with you... I run silver, aka stock rims

I run silver BBS. Anything else is a cop magnet:lol:

My car is now on Renick Subaru and found out that the Turbo inlet have a minor Oil leak...they will replace it and Hopefully thats it, Also They are resurfacing the rotors and replacing the brake pads all covered by warranty!

 

Yaaay for me! lol

 

Thanks for the all the advice!

Banjo bolt????????

I've seen that car in Newburyport, looks like aftermarket cans too.

I have never spotted you. but the since I am in Salisbury....