KFCConspiracy

Too thin for Q300 tips. Definitely something else.

The RSB most definitely should be done with upgraded endlinks, I used the kartboys. Preferably better endlinks all around... My stock ones were all kinds of rusty and pretty beaten up after only a year when I swapped the sway bar.

 

But by far the biggest thing to upgrade grip/handling wise for me was getting off of the stock all seasons to a summer tire...

Percitus is probably close to 300whp and 360ft-lbs all motor... The 3.6R motor with tuning and Raptors+Full header-back exhaust really wakes up the motor. The Supercharger isn't really needed unless you want to spend double the money to make an extra 30-40hp. Just my opinion. Take it with a grain of self as they say. His build is on the first page of this site.

 

I had the same mods before my car was totaled (I didn't have the newest opensource tune yet). I didn't have mine on a dyno, but mine was tuned by AMR with the midpipe, headers, intake and a catback. I'd want to see a dyno result to believe 300WHP; I see an estimated 292bhp on the front of the thread, which if we assume the correction factor is around 200/256 we'd see around 230whp.

 

I'll definitely say it was a ballsy car with those mods, way faster than my WRX is stock...

 

I'm not trying to insult anyone or their car car, but 300WHP is a pretty big claim; you need to keep in mind the car comes with 256bhp stock and was measured at 200-210WHP in everyone's dyno runs, so we'd be talking about 300 * 256/200 = 384bhp... You're talking about a 128hp gain over stock. And even the dyno plots on Raptor's site show a max of 250whp.

270-280 (Which is not too shabby) is more a reasonable expectation... And if you're going to get to that point you NEED a new midpipe and high flow cats. The raptor headers WILL definitely destroy the stock cats. Not an if, not a possibly, it's a will definitely. Although Perscitus may be able to chime in, I haven't seen his latest dyno #s with the Opensource tune.

FAST of West Chester (In PA) did my midpipe with the high flow cats for around 1200 bucks in stainless steel with the high flow cats included in that price.... That's what I was hinting at when I said shop the project around... Plus the time I saved by not having to drive 3 hours each way to AMR.

 

I'm currently running an AMR tune. My results are similar to Golfer's as far as MPG, etc. But I'd like to switch to XRT because I find the transmission's shift points leave a lot to be desired. So if I were you, I'd do XRT. I'm probably going to get it done this spring.

 

As far as suspension, I have a 2013, so I have the 2013 FSB. I upgraded the RSB to a 22mm Whiteline adjustable at the medium setting. I upgraded my endlinks all around to Kartboy, and my front bushings to poly. That's a pretty good place to start, those changes have made the car noticeably more nimble and grippy. Also if you're not running summer tires yet, I'd recommend that as well.

Golfer: I ended up finding a superficial exhaust leak between the header and the midpipe flanges on mine when I was changing the oil a couple weeks ago, not enough that I was getting exhaust in the cabin, but enough that I could feel some hot gases and hear a vibration. Ended up replacing those gaskets and coating the replacements with permatex ultra-copper RTV. No noise, no more leak.

 

Didn't think to take any pictures last time I was under there.

You can definitely have it tuned not to care... But I will warn you, if you've never had a catless car, it will smell and it will be noisy, one of the most effective ways of muffling the noise your car makes is the cat. It may be debatable whether exhaust flow is still a bottleneck with the high flow cats.

Raptor's headers are not direct bolt-on. The stock midpipe needs to be cut, an step up adapter needs to be attached to the midpipe, and then the adapter needs to be welded to the pipe and the provided flanges. However, I don't recommend that you do it that way because the increased exhaust pressure from the headers will destroy stock cats.... It happened to me, it happened to perscitus, I'm sure it's happened to other members (That's all in this thread). Not to mention the fact that the stock section of pipe is thinner than the outlet pipe on the headers.

 

I would recommend you price out a pair of high flow cats, I used Vibrants, and I believe Perscitus did as well, and plan on having a midpipe fabricated when you do it. I paid around $1200 for my midpipe fabrication including parts using stainless tubing. I'd recommend you shop the project around a bit to your local speed shops. Show them pictures of perscitus's midpipe.

I wouldn't do that personally... The 3.6R without any resonators from my experience makes for lots of drone. I'm cringing just thinking about driving in that.

I've had an exhaust rattle for a while as well... I think new bushings will probably solve the problem.

 

Also on the way to work today I got to finally see what shes on par with using the current tune: Nissan 370Z convertible was dead even on the highway so that was fun.

 

Similar to my experience. You'll beat a 350Z though or a G37 (Same engine in the 3.7L one). It does piss off 370Z owners when a big family sedan keeps up though.

Mine's still running fine too. Just did the 35,000 mile maintenance in my driveway... It just said "Inspect trans fluid", so I replaced it.

Should be able to pull that info with my ecutek cable right?

I'm in Philly, but I'm in the NY area pretty regularly, the fiancee's parents live in Westchester (I think you're in NY right?)

Started talking to Ed. Looks like it may be a bit of pain in the ass to get ECUTek off my car, like I may need to buy some additional software to do so.

Do you know if I need to buy a new cable? What's the deal with it? I'm willing to drop the 300 it lists for an etune, but what else do I need to flash?

Persc: Is the new tune also ECUTek? This is very relevant to my interests...

Golfer: You're probably in the high 4s. That's where I am with mine... You'll need to launch it to get there w/ TC off, but it's quite doable in our cars with the raptor headers and midpipe.

 

I'm with you on 3rd, 3rd was basically a kill-joy before the headers, and 4th had no real get up and go. Now the car will pull hard all the way up to 100 easily and keep pulling.

So what the best mid pipe to run? I know you probably already talked about it 50 pages back. I don't care to be to quite and going to run cat less. I have nameless sti muffler deletes.

 

Midpipe doesn't really become a problem without headers. But the way to do the midpipe is custom. I had mine made by a local fabricator... They had my car for about a week for measurements and to do the work, which was a little unfortunate, but AMR's a real hike for me.

 

My preference is with vibrant high flow cats. But do what you want... The car may smell a bit lawn-mower like and be loud without cats.

The car is so different with the mid pipe and high flow cat.. the throttle feels less laggy, the sound is quieter than it has ever been, but still powerful sounding. I can't stop driving this car.

Got my car back today from getting my midpipe built and high flow cats welded in. The car runs just like it did after the header install and tune. It's a lot quieter too. You guys don't know how tired I am of driving a 4 cylinder accord.

Dibs on the boomba.

Welding that bracket is really janky... They should probably just drill and tap if they can't get it off...

Just dropped my car off for the high flow cats and mid pipe work at a local fabricator they'll have it for a couple days. Driving the girlfriends accord is a real drag...

I think it's felt a bit less floaty with upgraded tires and the upgraded RSB on my '13 (Since I have a 13 I already have the thick FSB) and more resistant to wind shear. The biggest difference for me was a new set of tires.

Nice. I'll probably be joining you in the future with the Boomba if it seems to be making power (Which I bet it is).