Chronuss

So my dude got the O2 sensor out...with a ratchet on it...and an air hammer on the ratchet. Don't know what I did eight years ago under the Florida sun, but damn. So after the O2 sensor and MAF replacement, still same nonsense when trying stage 1. I'm over it. There's no physical air leak so I don't know why the numbers jump. Runs great stock so that is what she'll do.

Thanks all. Got part number, and I'll grab one off ebay if I need to if a torch can't get it out.

This is right before the uppipe on the passenger side, the upstream O2 sensor behind the passenger side wheel well. So exhaust manifold RIGHT hand side. Thank you. I think its going to be easier to replace that than trying to get this O2 sensor out...that I put in myself...eight years ago. Makes no sense. Thing acts like it was tightened by the right hand of god.

Can anyone please tell me the name of this elbow pipe where the front O2 sensor goes? As you can see, the O2 sensor broke off and is completely stripped. I have tried everything to get this thing out.

If I drive it in sport mode, it shifts from second to third under boost, AFR hits 17-18, stutters a bit, then comes right back down to 13-14. Cruising at speed its at 14.**, at idle its at 14.**. Now, if I put it in manual mode, shift from second to third under boost, AFR still hits around 17, but no stutter. Stock map feels great, no stutter. Still waiting on the sensors from Amazon, will be here tomorrow. Long as its not raining, will swap those out real quick and give it a drive. May also try the stage 0 map since its supposed to be "stock," so I can see how it drives with that and see if the AFR does the same thing.

So, after waiting for parts from Subaru for seventy thousand years, sending wrong parts back and re-ordering correct ones, them losing one order, going on vacation, I finally got the wagon back yesterday. Drove it home on the stock map, and it feels much better, runs smoother, accel is a bit quicker. Put stage 1 on it...same gods damned ever-loving thing. It hits third gear, AFR jumps to 17-18, goes back to normal. So, can confirm it isn't a mechanical leak of any sort. Used some Google-fu and dug around other forums, so going to try swapping out the front O2 sensor and going to try a new MAF. I don't have reason to believe either one of these parts are actually faulty, but found a few posts in other places with the same conditions I have and others swapped these two sensors out for favorable results, so that is what I will try. Both Denso parts available on the Zon for much less than local auto part stores.

Wanted to give an update for anyone that was following and for people that helped. Seems that the air leak was either coming from the intercooler or the gasket between the throttle body and intake manifold. So, grabbed a new(used) intercooler from ebay and did the bulletproof mod on it, also straightened all the fins. Rebuilt throttle body from ebay, and polished it with a dremmel and some compound. Didn't remove the butterfly because I was simply scared I would mess something up. Coolant leak was coming from the coolant crossover pipe. Underneath there are two O rings, and they both were shot. Also had to replace the the throttle body plug to the wiring harness and the coolant temp sensor plug. If anybody needs to replace a plug, definitely recommend iwireusa.com. So after waiting for 2.5 weeks for parts and gaskets from Subaru, was finally able to get everything over to the shop last Friday. While waiting on everything, my mechanic took the intake manifold and rehoned and straightened it. So now wait a little longer and build anticipation in the hopes that the wagon will run better than when it went in.

Pretty much. We got it used in 2013, it spun a bearing in 2016, engine replaced, a 2003 Sierra tried to park in my passenger seat by way of right front headlight in 2019. Had to replace hood, bumper cover, headlight, and passenger fender. It unfortunately sat for about seven or eight months before I could get it road worthy again and get a reconstructed title. Just got it back from paint and wanted the stage 1 map and the catless uppipe to make it a bit better to drive and not have to worry about the converter letting loose for whatever ungodly reason. Alas, some minor things to take care of first.

Its been unmarried since the other day and back to stock. If I have enough time once everything has been done, I'll try the stage 1 map again, if not, I'll go ahead and send it back and be happy the wagon is back up to snuff.

Yep, car is goin' in the shop for the vacuum and coolant leaks and get the uppipe done. Guy I use has a super nice shop at his house and a lift and climate controlled, cause I'm getting too old and chunky to put things up on jack stands and its still cold as hell here in WV. If it all gets done before I need to ship the Cobb back, great, if not, I got my five pack of resistors from Amazon.

Bro, you saved me time and headache and I greatly appreciate you taking the time out of your day to ride around in my old ass wagon and then stand around BS for a while. Let me know if you need anything or when it gets warmer and you wanna take the little one fishing.

Wellll...I ordered the Cobb and the uppipe at the same time, and my 30 days to be able to return it for a full refund are closing in. So, return Cobb, get refund, use refund for unforeseen repairs. I MIGHT be able to swing enough time, but it would be close, cause I can't get it in to the shop until Thursday. I would have to get it shipped out on March 14 to be able to get it back in time so I could get the full refund. It would seem theres a small vacuum leak somewhere between the intake and fuel pressure regulator. Also a coolant leak under the manifold. So, get manifold off, repair hoses. While its in the shop, go ahead and get the uppipe replaced and throw the resistor in and be happy for a while that theres no more cat right before the snail.

Welp, after some troubleshooting, found a vacuum leak and a coolant leak didn't even know I had. After all said it done, gonna get that stuff fixed, probably send the Cobb back cause my 30 days are almost up. The entire reason I got the Cobb was so I could flash and get rid of the CELs when the uppipe is replaced, but I think I may just swing the resistor mod for the time being just to get rid of the catted uppipe. Huge shoutout to m sprank for taking the time outta his day and riding around in my poor wagon up and down the mountain.

I am in Charles Town, right by Citizens Fire hall. The whole situation blows my mind. Everywhere I've looked says the 93 map should be superior to stock, and Cobb told me I may need a tune on their map. Wut? I also tried the 91 map, and it ran even worse than the 93 map. I did a much longer log on the 91 to show RPM and speed so I could pick out each time it did the stutter. Got it back home, uninstalled it again, ran it back out on the road on stock and it ran just like it always had since I've had it.

Seemed to only happen when trying to accelerate in third gear. From dead stop and through second was fine, only when trying to punch it in third.

Tried the 91 map. The hesitation/stutter is even more noticeable. Cobb said the log looked normal, but I can 100% tell you my car did not run normally at all. Back to stock map it is. Also attached is a log of the 91 map. At 21.596 I'm getting on the freeway merge ramp and start to accelerate. The first stutter happens at around 24.045 when the RPM starts to bounce. It powers through it eventually and I get to cruising speed for a bit then take the next off ramp to circle back around to back the other side of the freeway. The next indication of the stutter happens at 202.649, back on a merge lane to accelerate to freeway speed and the RPMs bounce again 205.091. You can see as it accelerates through it it bounces three times each time it happens then goes on its merry way. stage1 91~datalog3.csv

You tell me what data points you want to see and I will accommodate. This log is from complete stop, leaving my development, getting on to the highway and making a loop back to the development. The stutter would happen when trying to go full tilt when it was in third gear, and the car would literally stutter and go "badump, badump, badump," then accelerate through it. I know I'm definitely local to you if you know where Citizen's Fire Hall is, that's where I am.

Called Cobb, sent them over the log. Dude basically said I need to get an e-tune or have someone tune the map that I got from them and that just blows my mind. Also suggested I try the stage 1 91 map to see if that makes any difference, so I will try that this afternoon and get another log. If that doesn't really help, then I'm just going to return the damn thing since for whatever reason a map that works normally for an '05 and won't work for this '05 makes no sense to me.

AP has the latest firmware, made sure of that as soon as I got it. Am I not supposed to put it in Sport mode anymore? Is that where the stutter is coming from? As soon as it went back to the stock map, the stutter went away.

Don't know if anyone follows this thread anymore, but if you do, and you have time, I posted over in the tuning forum. Finally in a comfortable situation to get a Cobb, flashed the stage one map, and my poor wagon ran like pure unadulterated ass. I made a log, got back home, and uninstalled it just to make sure it would run normally again. Ran it up and down the road to make sure, then came home sad and forlorn. If anyone smarter than me could take a look at the log it would be greatly appreciated.

Apologies if this is not in the correct place, please let me know. After many moons, I was finally in a place to get a new V3 Cobb for my 2005 GT 5EAT. After much anticipation, I followed the steps and flashed the Stage 1 93 map. Took out it for a spin and was completely dismayed at the hesitation and stutter that was not there with the stock map. I have included a log for people smarter than me in the hopes someone could tell me what is causing it and what I can do to correct it. In the meantime, I uninstalled the AP so it would revert to the stock map again, and the stutter is gone. If there are any data points that are preferred, I can gladly get those by reinstalling the AP and reflashing. datalog2.csv

Bump.

This is me in and around Charles Town.

Hi, I'm looking for a Cobb Accessport AP(2,3)-SUB-002, or even an original AP-SUB-002, unmarried, please. I'm in WV, so shipping is definitely an option. Can pay via PayPal.

Charles Town, and Jefferson County in general, is growing at a ridiculous rate. Fifteen years ago there were fields and farm land, now most of the land that were farms are now developments with McMansions and rows of town houses. They planted some house seeds and in three months there three and four thousand square foot houses that popped up. You will also be amazed at the traffic you will encounter in such a small town, especially through the weekend. People from VA, MD, and even DE make the journey to the casino and every hotel around has full parking lots from people staying the two days.