cerbomark

installed my 19mm bar today... 20 mins, lol, if you do I like I did at 500 miles the nuts came off by hand after one turn on the wrench because everything was so clean.

Results to be determined after a few long highway drives.

 

PS/ Tip, when installing the brackets make sure you lock in the bracket tab at the top notch. You won t notice the tabs until you remove the bracket.

I agree, that s why I use the floor jack so I can let it down and back up again after it drains. The plug is on the side of the pan, not at the rear. You can try it and maybe only a small amount will remain. A few oz s really won t matter.

Maybe use one ramp on the right side???

http://www.impalasuperstore.com/naisso/magmoss.htm

 

If someone tells you they can void the warranty... also note the section about only certain Brand parts be used, NOT.

I really don't think it has anything to do with your warranty. If you stick with a Subaru part and don't exceed 20mm I find it hard to believe you can be denied any warranty work. It's a anti-roll bar...that's it. It is EXTREMELY easy to do it yourself. 4 bolts as fredrik stated...I did mine in my driveway in under 30 minutes. A monkey could do it and I'm no auto mechanic...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night:lol:

 

 

LOL. I agree. Get a buddy to help you. Simple.

The only thing that may not be warrantied is the sway bar it self and they don t go bad.

u don t have to remove cover, there is a cut out. But I just use a floor jack to lift one side about 6 inches to have enough room to get my arms under. don t forget one of the features of the boxer engine is it sits lower and further back for stability.

Just did a change this morning on my 2015 2.5... 32,000 miles. 7K on oil (mobile one synthetic 0-20W). No oil added.

no rear only... fronts are large enough.

the larger wheels or lowering the car will be far more of a stiff ride than the sway bar BTW.

not tight at all, hardly noticeable if no one told you.

Here s mine to give you ideas... I did plastic dipped my grill. I have Limited wheels and tints....

Congrads! Getting our fourth one Monday (tomorrow)... I still have a 15 Legacy and now a 17 Outback. You will love yours. After decades of autos (also have a Panamera) and 911s etc I can advise you to just remember the Legacy you got is a GREAT AWD car, excellent fuel mileage , reliable .... but it s not a race car. I would make yours look a little nicer with wheels, you already have the tints and maybe a tune down the road(best bang for the buck performance wise). Don t want to mess with the warranty when you consider that. Tstat, I wouldn t bother, subi has them engineered very well the way they are. CAI- waste. Look at the current system, it already draws cold air front the front. It is designed to pull more air than these little engine can use(again, engineered already). Drop- might look nice but if heavy snow is intended a lot then the height helps. Grill- it s just looks but up to you. Exhaust- too much money for not much IMO.

Something you might consider is the one size up rear sway bar. A DIY mod, not expensive and helped to make it a little tighter on the highway.

Hey, it s your car and your $ and I love to mod also. Have fun!

Got my wife a 2017 Outback, Limited, tungsten metallic coming Monday morning. It replaced her 2014 Legacy which was flawless for 50K. Even the brake s were original and had lots left on them <LOL . Never seen the dealer, did own oil, filters, cabin filter, and tires. That was it.

So now I ll keep the 2015 Legacy we have with 30K (along with a Panamera) . This is our fourth Subaru . Maybe some pics to follow.

 

Even though one is an outback (17) and the other a Legacy(15) not sure if I see any changes in the two years.

Good post! Helpful. Thanks.

I've come across that consumer report article before and it kills me that Subaru can claim this is "normal" when only 1-2% of their vehicles have this "problem". If the majority of vehicles DONT have this problem, then those who do are the exception and it's *not* normal. This is clearly a manufacturing quality control issue.

 

I wish I could find out what's triggering the consumption all of a sudden. My first two oil changes didn't have this issue, just this last one. I don't know if anyone else has this issue can comment on whether it's long distance driving, hot temperatures, cold temperatures or can indicate any type of conditions which worsen it.

 

different oil??

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2015/06/excessive-oil-consumption/index.htm

 

A good read on oil consumption. Look at the last oil chart , subi is not that bad or widespread, maybe 1% in 2014. Far better than others.

Also the OPer may want to try a different brand oil at some point. Some say it made a difference for them.

Slow day so I ve been thinking, LOL, these are Boxer design engines correct? I am a Porsche owner with a 911 boxer engine also. Only two manufactures that use this design I think. Interesting that Porsche engines also have a high usage tolerance set by the manufacturer. Just like with the Subi s there are some Porsches that use more oil than others. I am lucky, mine use NO oil. My Subi s are light if any oil users too. But I am wondering if the boxer engine is by design more apt to use oil? (which is why the manufacturers call a qt per 600 miles (or whatever) normal.). LOL

Sorry to hear this and I m sure it s aggravating to the OPer. I have had three, 08, currently a 14 and 15 and none use oil , at least not enough to add between changes. It s amazing they can t get this right. I would assume the % of oil burners is very very small. I am different from the OPer as I lease all my cars and if and when I get a bad one I just drive it until turn in time. Due to replace the 14 within months and having to roll the dice on a burner or not stinks....

using the same reg fuel or did you have to jump to premium? I ve always found MPG s increase with this type of tune.(Usually 1 or 2 MPG More). Although you have to drive it normal to see it, LOL. If you are still using reg fuel there should be more power to gain if you get a tune for higher octane...

I need to update, my original vote was for no oil usage, but just last week my low oil light came on so updated status:

Mileage 21,xxx

Oil used: 1QT over last 5500miles

Going to let the dealer know so it's on record just in case it gets worse. First time I've had any issue with oil usage. I drive 90% highway.

 

Funny you mentioned this because I have a

2015 2.5, 18k, highway mostly, lots of short less than a mile trips also.

Use no oil between 5-6K changes,

 

On my 2014 2.5 38K, same driving conditions as above. At somewhere around 20K I had the oil light come on and was almost 1 qt short. Did the oil change at that point and to this date it uses no oil.

Do you know if your neighbors have done any fluid changes on the cvt?

 

 

LOL, The answer is a positive NO. They do all highway and never check anything. They had 100K before they checked brakes, LOL...

They check or add oil when the light comes on!! Not car people, I guess they have a guardian angel.

 

Edit/ It gets funnier. The wife hammers the heck out of the car and the husband said she refuses to gas it up till the light comes on.... I can only laugh.

2014 36K, no CVT issues.

2015 20K, no CVT issues.

Neighbors 12 or 13, over 200K, no cvt issues.

my dealer had the rack (hunter) one of the best. My car was not perfect but close. The alignment didn t have any change in the car. They did do the alignment for free because of my complaint.

As you ve said it s higher hiway speeds and probably certain road conditions. I think the your dealer is correct in saying it s inherent in the new Legacy. Some people won t notice others it doesn t matter. After the alignment and the 19mm bar I d say it s good enough, but not perfect. Still wondering if it s all the guys with the 20 inch wheels because larger wider tires also produce the wandering condition. Called tramling.

installed rear 19mm sway bar. Went easy, had car on ramps. I was the unlucky one who had to use the 5MM allen to hold the endlinks from spinning with the nut upon removal.

What I noticed was a large weight difference in the stock bar and the 19mm bar.

In the middle of a snow storm now so other than a quick spin I could not report if the new bar improved the stabilization of the vehicle. I have a 600 mile drive coming up soon and it s all highway so I can report back then.

 

So I put about 600 miles of highway. 70-80 MPH.

The car is more stable during most of the ride. High speed 70-80 is OK. Wanders less but happens every once in a while but not all the time. When crosswinds blow the car is still a little more sensitive than anything else I ve owned. Overall I happy with the ride. Again at less than 70 it s fine, perfect at 60. This car was obviously not designed for Autobahn driving.

installed rear 19mm sway bar. Went easy, had car on ramps. I was the unlucky one who had to use the 5MM allen to hold the endlinks from spinning with the nut upon removal.

What I noticed was a large weight difference in the stock bar and the 19mm bar.

In the middle of a snow storm now so other than a quick spin I could not report if the new bar improved the stabilization of the vehicle. I have a 600 mile drive coming up soon and it s all highway so I can report back then.

If you guys are getting wandering that's a tire issue in my opinion. Combination of the tread pattern and tread depth, it should get better as the tires wear down. Not much you can do in my opinion except adjust tire pressure which might help a little bit, as mentioned earlier.

 

*Before someone jumps on me, I just wanted to clarify what I mean. When I hear "wandering", I think tramlining as described in the nasioc post in the link below. As I said above I think tramlining is 100% tires and road surface as the link below states. Floating on the other hand could have a number of other causes, like a rear sway bar that isn't big enough and strong enough to keep the car down.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=40189615&postcount=5

 

"What do you mean by "wandering"? The term is ambiguous.

 

There are two feels I'm familiar with on the freeway, floating and tramlining.

 

Floating is where the wheel feels disconnected from the road. The car likes to wander all over the place (generally slowly) and you don't have much control over where it's going. This is caused by worn/soft bushings and/or low grip tires with a big sidewall. The car starts floating one direction, and it takes more wheel movement than should be necessary to bring it back in line. Ever watch an old sitcom where somebody's driving and they're moving the wheel 30 deg back and forth while still going straight? That would be a car that's susceptible to wandering.

 

Tramlining is where the wheel still feels connected to the road, but the car drives as if the tires are steering you (in Soviet Russia!! ehm...). The tires are pushing the wheel all over the place and it's up to you to fight against it to keep the car going straight. This can be an alignment issue, or it could simply be normal. Some tires like to tramline, and some roads are filled with ruts that make the feeling 10x worse. There could be a problem, or it could simply be a combination of worn roads and grippy tires. My STi tramlines like a mother****er on certain roads (36 between Broomfield and Boulder) because of the deep ruts in the road."

 

*One more edit. My dad has a toyota 4runner, when it was new it had terrible, I mean TERRIBLE wander/floating at highway speeds. The problem got better as the tires wore down, and the problem also got much better by running different tires on the car. So I just wanted to explain my reasoning for saying tires, tires, tires. I've experienced this terrible phenomenon myself on a different car, and on my own car when my snow tires were brand new, for the first season that I used them before they wore down a bit. Though actually when the problem happened on my car with snow tires, the decription of "tramlining" fit my experience better.

 

I agree its most likely tires as I have researched this with other vehicles also. Heck my 911 did it for a period. Would be interesting to know if only those with the bigger 18 inch wheels experience this.

But for 100 bucks I ll try the larger sway bar as it may steady things up as some have reported. It may be a combination of tires AND too small a sway bar.