magnetic1

Line fitment on legacies????

yea... just having a hell of a time right now w/ getting vendor to do it "fast". I have one guy testing the kit already w/ WRX line length and it seem sto work, but is not 100% ideal.

Trying to do some research since I was in the market for a brembo kit. Doing a wilwood setup seems cost effective. I have a few questions I hope you guys can help me with. Are there any differences between the calipers with part numbers that vary by 1 number at the end for example 120-11132 and 120-11133 I also noticed some have SI at the end of the part number. The brackets are definitely needed for the front rotors? Does anyone know what kind of brake lines the brackets come with? Idk if i was reading this correct but the same calipers used on the fronts can be used for the rears?

The older calipers were side specific but Wilwood now just puts a bleeder screw on both ends so the calipers are interchangeable from side to side.

Lines are SS lines that we have custom made.

Brackets are required, as is the hardware (spacers, etc).

We dont have brackets that make these work for the rear. There is a Wilwood kit for rear WRX that should fit but we are currently testing line fitment on those.

The Wilwood BP10 or BP20s are a cheap and good pad. More aggressive than the HPS.

Not sure why I had 294mm rotor size there. Correcting now.

This is a special "reintroducton" price. Regular price is $299 shipped. However, my machine shop goofed on a couple items. As some of you may know who have been following the saga, I was having trouble finding a machine shop to make the brackets again. Turns out the spacers required are also a machine shop item (you cant get the right specs off the shelf). They made them too wide, so they all went back.

I have fulfilled the orders that have come through so far and will honor the $249 shipped price for any orders I get. Shipping of anymore kits after today wont be for approximately 2 weeks from today. Then finally, Ill have stock of roughly 50 sets ready to go with lines and all. Thank you guys.

The pads are super easy to change on these guys, so like suggested above, just swap to a dedicated track pad if going to track. For that, I really recommend Performance Friction 01s. We have those in stock too.

now we need a rear kit.....HINT HINT

 

Just need a bracket and what wilwood caliper to buy and you could sell the bracket and we could get the brakes from a dealer.

 

What do you think Eric?

Will look into it. problem is sizing

Any update on this kit?

Actually should have a sample within 10-14 days and then start a production run finally!

No. You're moving the fluid through the lines either way.

Correct, it is a closed hydraulic system. There is no "pump" that circulates fluid.

have you try to fit them under 5spoke LGT wheels?

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7246/sspx0059ij4.jpg

I'm running DBA 4000s w/ stock calipers and SS lines and wanted to upgrade to a better kit. Did the Wilwood caliper fit correctly over your DBAs or did you upsize the rotors? I was hoping that I could swap out the calipers for a a 4-pot kit rather than going all out BBK w/ new rotors.

I can accommodate. Send me PM

Anyone have any experience with Wilwoods or Racing Brake set ups?

There are quite a few on LGT with our Wilwood kit...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89776&highlight=wilwood

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97210&highlight=wilwood

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111085&highlight=wilwood

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102549&highlight=wilwood

This is a really amazing and informative thread. Xenonk, I appreciate your holistic approach to the topic of stopping. Like a lot of other people I get carried away sometimes when looking at aftermarket parts and forget what the real goal is. In my case, it's just stopping my car during daily driving, sometimes more spirited than others.

 

So I bought my LGT used with 35000 miles on it. I'm at 65k now and the steering wheel shakes when I press the brakes hard. This happened before, stopped and now it's back. I'm thinking it's a warped rotor but I need to inspect to be sure. So, question; if I were to replace the front rotors and/or pads only, is that problematic? Do the rears need to be done at the same time?

Possibly uneven pad deposits from the OEM pads. Switch to a different pad compound and see if it goes away.

SS lines wont make a HUGE difference.

If you need to replace the caliper anyways you have a couple options. One is to rebuild (under $20 in parts and maybe 1 hour labor).

Or we have our Wilwood Performance Brake Kit. New calipers, rotors, pads and lines. This would totally change your brake feel.

A cheaper option might be to try a more aggressive street pad like a Carbotech Bobcat.

Measure with caliper. According to this post (I just searched for it) 30mm:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92201&highlight=rotor+thickness

 

Note with stock setup, sometimes a little bit of surface at the very outer edge doesn't contact the pads so it can give a false thickness reading...make sure to measure further in where the pads are in contact.

Min thickness should be stamped on the rotor.

As far as machining them down, I dont really see an issue with a street car. Track car MAYBE...

The Prospeed can be bought for the same price as the Motul RBF600

Unfortunately those days are gone. Though not as expenssive as it once was, Prospeed is now $20. Still a great value and fluid considering it wont soften up your pedal like Motul will.

Couple of notes Clint:

You can do one man bleeding without Speedbleeders (which I dont like either). Something like a Motive Power Bleeder would work here.

Also, Im inclined to say that autoX cars do not need to be bled that much. Youre never going to get the fluid anywhere near boiling points in that application. Get a high quality fluid and it will last a pretty good amount of time. The GS610 fluid we carry is more dense and adds slightly to the pedal feel.

On the actual bleeding: Avoid pumping the pedal really hard. You want to keep the bubbles as large as possible so you can see them. If you pump the brakes fast/hard, you turn those into little tiny ones.

The car should be OFF.

Also be sure to clean the reservior area.

Does anybody know if the Outback XT shares the same brake setup as the LGT?

No, it does not. It uses a WRX pad (FMSI 929). In stock in most compounds.

thanks!

 

For my last 2 cars there was nothing like the carbotech you suggested.

 

they went from track/daily duty to...

 

rotor eaters.

 

Could be just the fact that our stock rotors weren't very great or that they were so cheap people didnt care about swapping them out too often. (some guys use NAPA blanks which run about 15 dollars per rotor or less for the miata. pretty cheap)

To my knowledge, LGT OE rpelacement rotors arent that cheap, YET. Im sure as the generic knockoffs start filtering in, they would. The advantages of going to something like a DBA4000 would be a change in the internal cooling vane designs.

Keep in mind that while the Carbotechs do tend to be more rotor friendly, they does not mean they cause NO rotor wear. They still are more aggressive, just to a smaller extent compared with Performance Friction or comparable Hawk track compounds.