dohclgt

For the life of me, I could not figure out how or what caused this clunk pop noise. I have searched, read and changed out almost everything I could think of and still can't figure it out. It has been a while (half year roughly?) I dont recall exactly. Basically, it's a loud single pop/ clunk sound coming from the driver left front side. I could feel it through my body when it happens. It happens when I go slow turning right and occasionally left. Also It also make that sound when I have parked the car overnight or long period of time. Reverse with the steering turn would cause this too. I cannot replicate it at will though.. Here's a list of what I have changed one by one throughout 3 to 4 months period. I would change/fix one thing and then drive it for a while to see if the sound comes back. 1st, the car was already sitting on koni/h&r springs, took that out and re-install it thinking I didn't place the top hat correctly. Nope didn't solve it. 2nd, changed the OEM top hats on both sides, realignment. Nope didn't cure it. checked the LCA bushings and they all looked good. 3rd, changed sway bar endlinks and checked sway bar bushings. Retorqued everything including subframe bolts to specs. 4th, changed both tie rod ends, realignment, nope. 5th, changed both inner tie rods, realignment, nope. 6th, changed the caliper pins like recommended on one of the thread here, nope. (Didn't think it would be the cause but I changed it just in case..).. nope.. 7th, (which was last night........) changed both lower balljoints. At 55k miles, I thought it would be the cause. But nope. This morning went shopping, still hear that s****d sound. Im thinking it might be the axle? Cause I think I changed everything I could think of... BTW changing all these parts DIDN'T the tone or characteristics of the pop/clunk sound. Hopefully someone can help chime in before I waste more money changing out good parts. PS: I have been researching and someone stated it could be the h&r springs binding up? Thinking maybe I should pick up those RCE blacks to swap these out? THANKS and happy thanksgiving

How do you guys upload pictures on to your post directly? Why is my picture attached as "thumbnails" and I have to click on it?

Big bear.

I saw your mods list... I wouldnt mess with u either LOL

You guys are getting alot of compliments. In CA i get nothing but bunch of ricer kids trying to race me. Especially the EVO guys. Is it just me or are they all extremely f*****n cocky. There was a nicely fixed up wicked white evo just tailgating me on the way home from work. He was definitely edging me to run him. I wanted to run him so bad, but I kept telling myself, I'm a responsible adult! lol I really dislike alot of the EVO drivers. Are they really that fast that they think they can "smoke" everyone or got something to prove?

An s4 for me. Manual is a must!

Since we're on TMIC topic, have anyone seen this? CNT? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNT-Subaru-Top-Mount-Intercooler-2010-2013-Legacy-GT-2-5L-turbo-/191882257172?hash=item2cad12e314:g:nl0AAOSw6btXR3j5&vxp=mtr

Rust, definitely not what I want. I did read alot of reviews about Muteki and that they do chip easily. I don't need/want anything fancy. I was searching for OEM-like lugs with conical seats, but no luck so far.

Thanks for the reply. That's the problem with some of these aftermarket manufacturers, they use terms like "forged steel", "forged aluminum", or "lightweight steel" or "1008 steel"?? etc... making me question their strength and safety and then confused about the whole thing..

I know those cheap chinese "aluminum racing" lugs are not safe. I'm asking in regards to like those Muteki "forged steel" tuner lugs, or the McGards splines or the Gorilla spline lugs etc. I would love to use my OEM but theyre not conical type which I need for the aftermarket wheels.

SO just wondering, what lug nuts are you guys running? I just ordered my wheels and tires but not sure which lugs are SAFE to run. (Will post pictures here when I get them installed)

If I plan on buying the racerx tmic and chargepipe, this bpv would not work right? Since it is in the stock location. Sorry for thread jack but I didn't think this question is worth its own thread =d Edit. Opps, nvm the question, found the answer just now -_-

http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4919893586.html cheap!

wow, the 5th gen legacy gt when fix up right looks soooo awesome!