CPUNeck

From the video it looks like the movement is the bearing "pivoting" inside the race. Once installed, the shaft will not be able to move in that plane.

Has anyone come up with conclusive evidence of pedal sensor failure? I'm not sure how to actually test it with conventional test equipment (multi-meter, oscilloscope, etc.) I understood those sensors were more like hall effect with no direct contact (wiper.) My car is not running right, and not throwing codes either...

 

New - fuel filter, fuel pump, Front / Rear OE O2's, spark-plugs, upper engine main harness... on and on. Smoke test=good, Exhaust leak=none.

 

Symptoms:

Sporadic fuel trims (14-16% LTFT) with STFT swinging wide - and + usually up to 25%.

 

Knock at steady load (65 mph, level road) with "light" throttle application (fine learning -1.4 to -2.4.)

 

AF Learning D / 4 = -11 to -14% (applied to open loop operation.)

 

Downshift 5EAT (2nd), turn right, ~90% throttle the car would almost nose dive and sounds like the engine is gurgling, knock, then finally it'll accelerate.

 

Voltage swings on one way commute typically 12.8-14.0v, with an average of 13.6-9v. Cold in the morning, volts really just fluctuate 1-2 tenths of a volt (14.3, 14.2, 14.0v), afternoon when hot those same fluctuations swing 3-6 tenths of a volt (14.4, 14.0, 13.8, 13.2, 13.5, 14.1v.)

 

Mechanical fuel pressure gauge exhibits very rapid flutter under certain circumstances. 1) Under light load, like drive, throttle at most +3% (right off idle), the needle "flutters" over an 8psi span. 2) Under high load, like passing at 80, throttle at ~80%, same flutter just higher pressure.

 

Key-On,engine off - throttle plate unable to follow accelerator (at 1/3 throttle the plate seems to jump to 1/2,) also it sounded very loud and I clearly heard what sounded like the plate binding just when it would "jump."

 

I Suspect:

1) The accelerator sensor could be feeding bad signals to the ECM sporadically.

2) The throttle body assembly could be damaged or failing.

2) The alternator might be losing a diode or the rectifier, leaking A/C voltage into the system causing the issue.

 

Pedal would be the simplest so I hope y'all had good luck.

 

Thanks

My 5EAT shifts mostly fine... better when cold, onset of delayed 2-3 and 3-4 when up to operating temperature. Fluid's been 3x flushed/changed with Amsoil. I believe having the valve body (VB) solenoid/spools clean + quicker hydraulic circuit activation will prolong my clutch paks. I don't 'race' or hold shot launch the car, just spirited driving and I know the period between shifts under power is chewing up my clutches.

 

Does Climber-D or someone else still offer the VB upgrade? I don't really have the time necessary to rebuild it myself, and haven't had a response in the original VB thread.