mccorry

2005 LGT Stage 2.5 - Just under 172K miles.

 

- Passenger side cam cover just started leaking oil on the uppipe... buying parts to replace gaskets.

- Clicking from rear while turning and >5 MPH... think this is a rear wheel bearing (or both). Hopefully not the differential. Also get a hum on occasion while travelling straight. The click sounds like a broken belt in a tire.... for comparison.

- Rust showing up on driver side quarter just behind rear passenger door (front of rear wheel well).

- Cruising oil pressure (~70 psi) is a little lower than it was when new (~80psi)... but what can you do...?

 

Other than that, she's chugging along. It's been a great car and I've enjoyed it immensely. Replaced clutch at 125K miles. Still on stock turbo.

I've got a SMFW with an ACT HDSS clutch and PP. Overall, I like it. Grabs great. You will get some chatter when it's cold, however... but I'm used to it.

 

Also... a clutch TOB return helper spring will keep the TOB from chirping against the PP.

http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20120311175214/alcatraztv/images/1/14/2088.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Llcr-2Gmrsc/TjqNYO-86vI/AAAAAAAACaU/47628wyvduQ/s1600/cy2.jpg

http://www.spirit-of-metal.com/les%20goupes/K/Ktulu/2078

meh..... I was joking.

Those are over 9000!!!

Just got my Volk RE-30's back from the shop after a color change... Ready for warmer weather!

Here are some pictures from my recent change out for reference. Thought it might help somebody down the line.....

Mine is always worse with weight in the rear of the car. Put weights in the trunk or get two buddies to ride in the back seat and check it out. I bet yours is worse that way!

I just swapped out the FW, Clutch, and Pressure plate on my LGT two weeks ago.

 

Flywheel to crank = 52.8 ft-lbs

Pressure plate to flywheel torque = 11.8 ft-lbs.

Tranny to engine = 37 ft-lbs.

No... it's definately from the back ... and is worse with more load (passengers,etc) in the rear of the car. It also gets worse with rear suspension squat (from acceleration, hard cornering, etc).

 

This appears to be an issue with the rear suspension geometry.

http://www.esutour.com/baekwj/ebay/watch_tools/movement_miyota2035.jpg

http://www.grindhousedatabase.com/images/thumb/2019nypost.jpg/300px-2019nypost.jpg

Glad it helped you guys out.

 

owenmaxx... did you try jacking up the car, putting a breaker bar on the bolt with a stand under the breaker bar, and slowly lowering the car?

http://www.covershut.com/covers/Timewave-2013-Front-Cover-36602.jpg

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http://www.jekkilekki.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/21-seoul-1988.jpg

http://s3.amazonaws.com/readers/2010/06/11/1974telstar20060811_1.jpg

You don't need it... the balancer / pulley is a slip fit.

Just pull the bolt out of the center... then wiggle the balancer back and forth while pulling forward and it will slide right off.

http://cache2.allpostersimages.com/p/LRG/18/1848/CQG8D00Z/posters/1934-indian-motorcycles.jpg

Rapid cycling is usually indicitive of LOW system pressure... not high.

Sorry.. just saw this.

 

The valve spring load on the camshaft lobes is what tries to move the cam pullies.

Just the drivers side requires this. The passengers side cams are both in "neutral" position.

 

You want to align all the marks before taking off the belt. That way everything moves in unison. You don't want to go rotating anything independantly (at least not very much). That's when bad things will happen. When the new belt goes on, all the marks should be dead nuts where they're supposed to be.

 

My Gates racing belt had marks, as does the OEM subaru belts. Don't know about the belds from FBP.

 

The intake cam is the top one on both sides... the exhaust cam is the bottom.

They'll need to replace the drier... pull the system down (full vacuum), and recharge with oil/freon.

Nah....