Brighton96

Yeah I just took the vent hose that normally goes to the intake and I put in a T so that I could attach the other end to the EGR tube which I had cut, the hose clamped down nicely only the old EGR tube and it looks OE to the untrained eye. But the best way to do a full delete is just run non EGR heads and an non EGR intake which you get from manual cars if my memory is right.

taking the clusters apart is a pain, I've broken two tachs and a bunch of needles by messing with them. What I did with the engine temp gauge is I removed the bottom stopper peg and then installed the needle so that it is slightly below where the peg normally goes, then I move the need upwards until I can get the stopper peg in place, that way the needle won't float about and it should now stop in the OEM place once it reaches operating temp

I tapped into the IACV hose and ran it that way, so far no CEL. It just has to have some sort of airflow. But I don't think you can straight up delete it without a cel.

Those stupid tube EGR nuts always round off. I've had to crush a set of vice grips on them to get them off on more than one occasion.

I didn't do anything but rebuild the stock injectors, to do a proper conversion I've heard you have to map the ecu for it, and install a flex fuel sensor. But I've heard e85 can be upwards of 100 octane rating so old school science, higher octane = more bang = more power. So we'll have to wait and see haha

I haven't been able to get E85 yet, all the places around here don't sell it, but almost every gas station back home sells it so once I'm back home I'm going to start testing it. I just replaced all of the fuel lines with stuff made for E85 so not really a conversion, more of just adaption to handle it.

My only reference level is having done motor pulls of old American V8s, the last motor weighed a good 650lbs and was an absolute beast to move around. But even in that case, there was lots of space in the engine bay and not much to line up.

Honestly it's not too bad, I've heard people being able to pull them in 45 minutes but it took me a while, it's not easy to get the engine mount studs free of the cross member while simultaneously getting the studs out of the bell housing. Both of which are 90 degrees from each other so you will have to mess with the angle of the motor and trans a lot to get it to come free. Luckily the motor is light and with one person standing in the engine bay, you can manhandle it out. Installation is worse though, reverse process but more angle adjustments :/ Get at least one floor jack, an engine hoist and at least 2 strong guys, one to operate the hoist, and the other to pull the motor out. It was easier with 3 guys. Also remove the radiator before engine removal and don't install the radiator until the motor is reinstalled. I used a long section of 2x4 to angle/pry up on the engine and since I laid it on the bumper support, it went through the area where the radiator would normally be.

Here's the stuff to look for http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-12-in-x-15-ft-No-Itch-Duct-Wrap-Insulation-R4-CF55/203486074

I did notice a good bit of noise reduction, my exhaust is pretty loud and before this, I could hear my fuel pump and it was hard to have a conversation at a normal volume but with it now, it's about as quiet in the cabin as a normal modern subaru. When I do the headliner I'm going to line the roof with this stuff too. It already has adhesive applied to it so you just clean the surface of the car and lay it on. So far it's been on there about a year and I haven't found any places were the adhesive has come loose. I even have a spare tire in the spare tire tub and the tire is too large for the tub so it constantly rubs against the mat, and even with that said, the mat hasn't been destroyed nor come free of the cars surface.

Most of the interior is the black interior out of an L and some of the mismatched interior is the dark charcoal out of outbacks. I also didn't remove the trim to wrap it, I just cleaned it as best as I could and then tucked the wrap up around the edges and so far it's held up well for nearly 2 years now. The smart thing to do would have been remove it and paint it but I didn't want to buy that much 3M tape :/

Here's pictures of the interior. I don't have pictures of the old seats but trust me they were horrible, the current seats are out of a 98 outback. Dash and steering wheel before http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSCN3234_zpstqo3b48m.jpg And After http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSCN3237_zpspjnxtspl.jpg Rear door before any changes http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/IMAG0978_zpstqx691t1.jpg And after with the newly wrapped door car http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/IMAG0979_zpsbfqhbxyr.jpg And here are some pictures of the dynamat stuff http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSCN2513_zpsql5ztbnq.jpg

+1 for heater core leaking I'd try to drill out that bolt first, it's a pretty large bolt so it shouldn't be too bad to drill through it and use an extractor to remove it.

It's not legit dynamat, homedepot/lowes sell a foam backed aluminum deadening and it's in the plumbing insulation section.

First current update, I got a roll of darker gray headliner material from the local fabric place today. It's somewhere between the current light gray headliner and the black interior so I think it'll look good, I may also make door cards to match

Open heart surgery just this past winter as well as a fresh transmission http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0536_zpsctzrthua.jpg http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0530_zpsoclivtqc.jpg How it sits currently, I haven't gotten a lot of pictures of it's current set up yet, since it's middle of winter here. But a new camera and warm weather means lots of pictures soon! http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/DSC_0539_zpsdidqeg23.jpg

Here is how it looked after the first wash and wax. I barely made it home and I almost rear ended my dad driving my truck in front of me on more than one occasion. It didn't idle, it didn't stop well, it cooked the brakes almost immediately, it rattled and shook, most of the electronics didn't work, the AC was shot, and the tires were bald and sticky so they randomly grabbed sections of road which made it randomly try to change lanes. The PO put junkyard shocks on it since he had it lowered on coilovers on GTB wheels. So the wheels got sold to someone on this forum and that funded new struts. http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subie%205_zpsqsi5ln1q.jpg This was how it sat after about 6 months of ownership, new wheels, suspension and a few other things but overall the same cosmetically http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t637/96Brighton/Subie%204_zpswqfjbwtn.jpg After about a year and a half of owning it. Much more mechanical work was done and more cosmetics were added which included the wrapped roof and door trim, fog lights and lots of paint repair.

It's about time I got around to making a thread of the day to day going on's, since all the cool people already have them. Info about the car -1996 Subaru Legacy Brighton Wagon with 2.2L and 4EAT slushbox with 180k ish on it. -It started life in NJ and I am now the 7th owner of it -It's comprised of parts from at least 25 other cars up to 4th gen legacys and 4th gen Imprezas -I got it from a military guy for $1300 who neglected the hell out of it What's been done/current configuration (excluding maintenance things) -Transmission was rebuilt -Motor was partially rebuilt with new heads -Both front and rear diffs have been rebuilt -Front 10.9in rotor and dual piston caliper upgrade -Hybrid intake set up with K&N panel filter -JDM protector headlights -Custom made cat-back exhaust with resonator, flowmaster 40 muffler and borla tip -Kenwood headunit with Kenwood speakers and tweeters (front only) -White door handles, mirrors, white wrapped door trim and white spoiler -NGK Wires and iridium plugs -Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley -GT Snowflake rims with generic tires -Paranoid fab grounding kit -Royal purple synthetic Power steering fluid, motor oil, and trans fluid -Mechanical lifter to HLA conversion -Black interior swap (was awful greyish pink color) -Dynamat knock off sound deadening all throughout the car -Lots of engine bay stuff got power coated black -Vinyl wrapped the roof black -Passport JDM battery tie down -Various parts 3M Carbonfiber wrapped and stickerbombed -Blue Dash and Instrument panel LED conversion -LED Brakelights, Reverse Lights and marker lights -Leather Steeringwheel -6500k LED Projector fog lights -Sunvisors with the mirrors and lights -20% tint all the way around except for the trunk side windows which are vinyl wrapped on the inside so you can't see through it. -Raised wood trunk floor with spare tire lid from Outback -Front strut tower brace -20mm GT front sway bar -STI Group N Pitch Stop -Optima Redtop Battery -EBC Redstuff pads and rotors on the front -Inferno Fab UEL and 2nd Cat Delete -Whiteline front and rear sway bar links -Grimmspeed Brake brace -TruHart Coilovers -Weapon R Coolant/Washer Fluid tank -Walboro 255 Fuel Pump -Kein Firewall/Fender braces Future Modification Plans -5MT Manual and RWD conversion -Delta reground cams -Dark gray headliner and matching door cards -Complete Kenwood stereo -EGR Delete -Full aluminum radiator and replacement fans I have also made a few short How-To threads for stuff I do. They aren't usually all that helpful because I don't measure stuff and usually forget to take pictures but here are the ones so far. LED Footwell lights http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-guide-foot-well-led-lights-253431.html?t=253431 Underhood LED Light http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-guide-underhood-light-259451.html?t=259451 HVAC LED Color Change http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-hvac-color-change-251981.html?t=251981 LED Ashtray Light http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mini-diy-ashtray-storage-tray-light-251906.html?t=251906 Motor Build Thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brightons-2-2-engine-rebuild-258768.html Current Exhaust Sound

Use non-chlorinated brake clean for the residue. It's paint safe and melts that sticky crap away. Apply it to a rag and wipe it in.

I noticed there was two colors of black interiors, a few of my panels are a lighter black than the others, it's kind of annoying

Do you want me to take pictures of how mine are wired up? It's only 3 wires so it's pretty easy to wire up yourself.

I'm honestly just lazy, when I was younger I had wires running everywhere for all sorts of dumb crap. I'm past that phase now haha, now it's just wire it up as simply as possible so they are functional. I just used those ghetto wire taps that you crimp over the wires you want to get power from and then you put a spade connector on the wires running to the fog light.

When I did my fog lights I tapped into the low beams lights so they automatically come on when the low beams are on and go off when high beams are turned now. By the laws here in the commonwealth states, the fog lights cannot be on when the high beams are on. I also did it this way because I didn't feel like running a switch into the cabin and adding another wire to my battery.

My car is a Brighton so I don't have any options, but I have plugs for fog lights, power mirrors and cruise control. All of which my car isn't equipped for. But I don't have the front end wiring harness for those options.

Is the airbag connected for each of these tests? Or are you just testing the connector? The light will stay on if the airbag is not connected. I'm looking through my haynes manual, there isnt a wiring diagram for that and the pictures are black and white :/ but I'll keep looking. Also why not go look at one of the donor cars? It's only 2 screws to remove the airbag