legacybt

Confirming location per 2005 FSM - brake booster goes to the plastic fitting beside the metal one. 

Nice build, interested to see what comes next!   Re. tire selection: I'd put a vote in for Continental Extremecontact Sports, I loved the ECS for the 2 days I got to run them before my engine let go...

 

On 11/25/2023 at 8:44 AM, seanyb505 said:

- That little bracket that holds the driver floor mat in place

- Sensitouch ® driver window switch that doesn't return to neutral unless you touch it just right

- Sluggish/stuck shut oem sunroof

^ 10/10 interior mods

59 minutes ago, boxkita said:

245/18 BFG R1 slicks on 18x9.5 +35 almost perfectly fill the wheel wells of a LGT. 265 would fit with +30

Still one of the most outrageous fitments on a stock body LGT .  I can't get my head around a wide tire on a +30 offset fitting, considering how tight my 255/35R18 on a +42 is up front on rolled/pulled fenders.  

On 12/2/2023 at 8:06 AM, Febreze Mee said:

Recent modifications include @BridNasty's old Prodrive mufflers (I polished them), and a CSF oil cooler set up. More on that below. 

 

At last, the well deserved, much needed modification this car needed for the Tail of the Dragon, and everything afterwards —an oil cooler!

The set up includes:

- CSF 8066 oil cooler

- Chase Bays thermostatic oil sandwich plate (thanks for the rec @08Spec_B)

- 26" of Nylon braided fuel lines (AN-10 lines) wrapped in a silicone fiberglass sleeve

The sandwich plate is clocked 90° from the front, to where the inlet and outlet ports are facing towards the passenger side. 

The cooler itself is enormous, and does its job too well (a problem I can deal with). I'll be fabricating some block off plates for winter driving tomorrow afternoon. For now, I'm just using cardboard like a peasant. 
 

Pre-cooler experiences:

Oil temps were a minimum of 230F° (110C°) at 60mph in all ambient temperatures ranging from 32F° to 85F°. Of note, oil temps remained at 230F° only when the engine had little load on it (on level ground) and at sea level. Temps would easily reach 240F°, and without much more effort reach 250F° (120C°) at 75mph in the same ambient temperature ranges while climbing unsubstantial hills, and certainly in mountain passes. Rain had little effect on the oil temps in all situations. I will expand on experience after installing when I get some more seat time with it. 

Clean install!  Interested to see the results.  Routing it through the front structure definitely cleans up and shortens the plumbing.  
 

Are you using the raceflux viton lined hose or something else?  Worth noting that a lot of braided nylon hose has a max operating temp of ~250f which doesn’t leave much margin for the hotter supply line.  
 

Good to see the silicone wrap on those!
 

https://www.anhosefittings.com/lightweight-nylon-braided-viton-sae-j30-r9-hose-for-fuel-and-oil-10an.html

Resolved by attempting to start the car… looks like everything was hooked up right, it just needs an attempted start cycle in the ECU/BIU to display fuel level instead of only key on. 

Ok, I hooked a 10 ohm resistor up across the circuit so simulate what should be a pretty full tank.  Still nothing.  
 

Does anyone know what the voltage between points 1 and 5 in the diagram in my last post should be while the gauge is reading?  I measured 1V and I don’t know if the BIU should be monitoring at a higher voltage (5V?) - I’m thinking something might have been damaged in there. 

I've recently installed a V1 Radium fuel hanger and now my fuel gauge reads empty, but sweeps on key on.  I'm moving through troubleshooting what's gone wrong and am hoping for some assistance from some of you knowledgeable people!  There is a bunch of custom wiring done so I'm in for a bit of an adventure, but the circuit should match stock. 

I've tested the following points.  

1,5 = 61.5 Ohms (BIU to ground, both senders in series)

2,5 = 61 Ohms (Local harness to ground, both senders in series)

2,3 = 19 Ohms (Driver side sender plus some harness)

3,4 = 42 Ohms (Passenger side sender plus some harness)

4,5 = 0 Ohms (harness ground to chassis)

I also shorted the passenger sender connector so I had 42 Ohms between the BIU and ground, but still no reading at the gauge. 

 

Next steps = install a 20 Ohm resistor between points 2 and 4 to bypass all of my new wiring and see if the gauge reads. 

 

I'm hoping to get answers for a few questions:

- are the resistances I'm measuring in spec for expected fuel sender values that should read non-zero at the gauge? 

- Any other ideas for what the culprit might be? 

- If there are iffy connections anywhere, could you expect the BIU to read something different than the multimeter? 

 

Thanks!

Another update.  

Engine fit-up is getting closer.  There's been a good bit of custom plumbing, sourcing fittings and electrical harnesses exhaust and turbo outlet elbow welding (thanks to a friend) with plenty more to do.  I wanted to stay TMIC (we'll see how long that decision lasts) and worked to find the shortest turbo-intercooler routing possible.  Very happy with the result, hoping my measurements for space between the turbo and wheel arch are accurate

Setting valve lash was also a super slow process doing it the first time. 

 

Exhaust cams: 20004727 Cosworth EXH EJ20 WRX 268/10.2

- I can't find any info on the specs aside from some old forum posts.  

Intake Cam: Cosworth 20004723 Cosworth EJ25 STI 277/11

- I'm a bit concerned about them not being nicely matched, but oh well.  I'm going to run them as-is.  

 

Turbo: GTX3071R Twin Scroll with dual Tial MVR Wastegates plumbed back into the exhaust

Grimmspeed TMIC

Mooresport fuel rails and Goodridge Aramid lines (not pictured)

ID1300CC injectors

 

Turbo/EWG setup:

 

Engine:

 

Fitting up turbo outlet elbow:

 

Turbo welded:

 

DIY Cylinder 4 Coolant Mod:

There is a ~10mm restrictor in the hose that also prevents it from kinking

 

To do before engine install: 

Get the header heat shields to clear the Killer B oil pan (taken way too long)

Weld up fuel distribution block bracket

Plumb BPV back into intake (better boost recovery, nice-to-have because speed density)

Route coolant hoses to EWGs

Route vacuum lines

Install engine accessories and timing belt

Fit turbo oil feed

Re-do turbo coolant lines in AN

Install wiring harness on engine

Properly install cam covers

Wire up speed density harness (ordered all connectors etc)

Install sandwich plate for oil cooler

Wrap or build heat shields for up pipes

 

 

Things are starting to feel real! It's a slow process.  

Bump - parts added 

Engine build update time.  I've been reassembling a new-to-me long block.

- STI block and nitrided crank

- Cosworth rods & pistons

- Cosworth KK3766 CNC ported big valve heads & cams

- Grimmspeed head gaskets

The engine had terrible leakdown numbers when I got it, fortunately only due to carbon buildup on the valves stopping them from seating properly.  I partly tore the engine down, checked ring gaps, inspected bores and had the heads cleaned and serviced.  
 

Before: 

 

After: 

 

 

 

More to come!  

 

ToTD looks like it was an amazing drive!  Have you decided on an oil cooler setup?

I’ve run Kartboy on my Whiteline setup for 10ish years without issue 

Huge fan of this build, and can’t wait to see those brakes when they’re done! 

Any dyno graphs for the new engine or is it still in break in period?

A couple more photos of the front knuckles and hubs for a size comparison.  I’m not excited about the increase in unsprung weight, but I am excited about the increase in strength.   Combined with two piece rotors I’m hoping these stand up to some longer term track abuse.  

Note the difference in spline length between the LGT and STI front axles, the axle nut won’t be fully threaded on.  GD front axles are the same overall and have the right spline length, so I’ll be using those instead.  

Next up: engine stuff.  

12 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Is it cheap enough that you'd be happy spending money on drilling another set should these ever fry? Or would you just replace the bearing itself?

And are you competing with the car? Or just enjoying motorsports recreationally?

Yeah, it’s cheap enough as long as I’m removing and reinstalling the studs.  Cash job for a local machinist, so it’s pretty reasonable!

I’m enjoying it recreationally; it’s my daily so I don’t have plans for it to be built up as a full track car.  I unfortunately don’t have the space for a second car, and there aren’t many cars out there that tick all the boxes like this one does - space, speed and fun.  Ideally I’d like to be able to get out to the track 2-3x a year.  

Re. the GR Ohlins coils - I also had rear top hats waterjet and I drilled them out to fit the Ohlins bolt pattern.  

 

Thanks both!  I'm excited to have this thing under the knife after a few years of accumulating parts. 

This spring a friend and I modified a new-to-me 3" exhaust with twin A'Pexi WS2 mufflers to fit the car.  It's much quieter than the K2 Gear Spec Neo that was installed on there (already a fairly tame exhaust for Subaru standards), and should be ever so slightly less restrictive to boot.  

The muffler hangers were made from scrap tubing lying around but no bender - they'll be redone if they ever fail on me.  Holding up well so far! 

 

The other project that'll be fitted this fall is a conversion to STI front to run the stronger bearings and GR STI Ohlins coilovers.  I had the hubs redrilled to 5x100 and ground the studs to fit the bearing housing.  Mated up with GD WRX or STI axles these should fit - I believe LIC motorsport used to make sets like this.  

 

Bringing this thread back to life..

I cleared 300,000 kms and decided to finally take the plunge and take it to the track.   I bled the brakes and fitted a set of 255/35R18 ECS's, and with the safety-critical stuff sorted didn't do a whole lot else since I signed up for the track day 2 days before it was held.  The engine lasted about 5 laps , consuming >1L of oil in that time. 

 

I haven't fully diagnosed it yet, but I'm fairly certain the PCV system wasn't working properly and a bunch of oil was ingested, leading to knock and cracked ringlands.  Smoke on start-up, smoke comin through oil fill cap, low compression and high oil consumption.  Despite that, I'm hooked.  

 

 

It finally kick-started my backlog of upgrades I've had slated for the car, so there should be some fun updates coming over the next weeks and months. 

I've purchased an IAG AOS and an oil cooler (oil temps were higher than I'd like to see) - two worthwhile lessons that I'm glad I learned on an old, stock motor and not the built one that's going in. 

Huge fan of that wheel/tire setup, looks great!

Is there any rubbing on bumps during hard cornering?

No longer needed 

Bump, added AOS and turbine housing

Thanks! I had expected the Series 6 19 row but good to hear we can fit a bit more area under there.  

What model Setrab is that?  Looks like a great fit

As far as I know, yes.  
 

I purchased them from a local guy who had removed them from his car for TGV deletes.   They were pulled from an 08 STI but the part number is shared with the 07-09 LGT.  

Two photos from an excellent couple days of driving and riding last summer.

Recently crested the 300000 km mark with no signs of slowing down! 

 

On 1/21/2023 at 8:09 AM, WRX USA said:

I found out this week that due to changes with the laws any further tuning from Surgeline will require that I switch out the TGV deletes to something like these: https://www.iagperformance.com/iag-v3-top-feed-tgv-housings-with-butterfly-pass-thru-06-14-wrx-07-sti-07-12-lgt-09-13-fxt/. I was considering switching to an ETS FMIC and bigger injectors.

How much power do you expect to pick up from the FMIC?  Had the GS TMIC shown to be a bottleneck in similar setups to yours?