So the only way to upgrade brakes is to go "all in", with bigger rotors, bigger calipers, and aggressive pads? That's a flawed argument. That's like saying, "What's the overall point in buying a sports sedan and then getting an automatic transmission?"
If the stock calipers and rotors work for you, great; this upgrade isn't aimed at you.
"Common" to what?
Which Hawks did you have? You are aware they make more than one compound, right? Don't assume the company's products are all bad just because you bought the wrong compound.
Or get bigger rotors and better calipers, which allow you to get the same performance while running less aggressive, less dusty pads on the street. Win! And then give you even better performance when you throw in track pads and hit an HPDE. Win again!!
I don't think you've thought that one through very well. A square wheel doesn't work very well, so chipping the corners off would actually be exactly the opposite of counter-productive.
News flash! Not everyone has OEM wheels. Many folks already have wheels that will clear this setup.
Where did anyone say this setup was needed? Of course it's not needed. Again, if you're happy with the stock brakes, then you're not the target audience for this upgrade.
Yes, it's just as head scratching as why you just happen to have a set of RPF1s.
It's not a "look"; the brakes are actually bigger.
Ignoring for a moment the fallacious implication that there is no performance benefit to doing this upgrade, are you seriously saying that the only reason people do aesthetic modifications to their cars is because of a lack of self-confidence and a desperate need for attention? Is that why you just happen to have a set of RPF1s?
Fixed that for you.
Where did you buy your Jump To Conclusions Mat?
Quantitative data like that you used to determine the Stoptech/DBA combo was better than the Hawk/stock combo?
And? Do you think a soft sidewall somehow magically negates the performance advantages of better dampers, higher spring rates, and lower CG?
No shit?! So what did you measure your dynamic toe to be? Personally, since I can't measure dynamic toe, I rely on tire wear to tell me if my toe is set improperly. After a couple hundred thousand miles I've found that 0° toe works out great, and gives a bit of improved steering response compared to the factory alignment specs.
If that's what you've gathered from this thread then you need to read it again.
18" wheels may or may not be required. The brake parts required come to ~$600, not $1000. It's hard to find a pair of STI Brembo calipers alone for $600, and those aren't going to be brand new calipers. That's why this is a noteworthy deal.
Uhhh... DBA 5000s are not a BBK.
Comparing a Centric LGT rotor vs a Centric STI rotor, the difference is 1#. I'm guessing the calipers + pads is about a toss-up. If you can feel that difference in unsprung weight, well, I'm impressed.
This ^^^ was part of your post when I got the email notification that someone had replied to the thread. I was disappointed to find that you had edited your post (presumably because you realized you were talking out your ass ); I was really looking forward to learning more about this "coefficient of heat" and how it influences the OEMs' caliper material selection. Instead you deleted that comment and replaced it with a generic link that isn't germane to the discussion at hand.