relative4

It's hard not to like the idea of hubs for under $30, but I believe they are indeed the source of your problems. First, at the risk of getting into a semantic argument, it appears that your definition of "without an issue" includes driving around with a P0500 code (and whatever ABS code(s) triggered the P0500) as you've been doing apparently since the first time you put in one of these cheap hubs. This is a dangerous situation, as the wheel speed sensors are essential to ABS operation. Here's what I would do, take it or leave it: 1. Pull the sensors on the affected knuckles and check for damage. 2. Stick your compressor's air gun into the sensor hole and blow it out while rotating the wheel, on the chance that the sensor readings are being thrown off by ferrous debris stuck to the magnetic sensor ring. Stuff can get in while you're replacing a hub or axle. I had this happen once. 3. Buy a Timken or other reputable hub and install it on one of the wheels that is throwing a code. 4. If the new hub eliminates the code from that wheel, replace hubs as needed to eliminate all codes.

What brand hubs did you install?

This can be caused by incompatible wheel bearings. Was a bearing replaced about the time the code showed up? Do you have a scanner that can pull ABS codes? If not, you can pull them with FreeSSM and a $10 eBay VAG-COM cable. Do your cruise control and ABS work OK?

Lest anyone be confused by this random post, the rack in question is for a '12-'14 sedan. Does NOT fit a BL.

All the direct-fit rack options for BP roof rails: Low profile: The OEM (Thule-style) square bars were made by Mont Blanc. Those and a newer aero-style version are still imported by PerryCraft in Sparta, NC. See their website for retailers. http://www.perrycraft.com/c-9609-1998-2007.aspx Another, better square bar option was the Thule 440 specialty rack with kit SR2. Production was brief and availability is limited, especially the SR2 kit. Yakima RailGrab towers make for an especially low profile. Just discontinued, availability is plentiful. Fitting these takes special care to avoid contacting the roof paint. Standard profile: Yakima EZ Rider towers are a nice fit. Discontinued quite a while back, availability is limited. High profile: Locking EZ Riders are maybe half an inch taller than non-locking EZ Riders. Availability is similar.

And this is why I won't take my car in for the Takata recall.

In for a ground.

Maybe a loose bus connection to the ABS module? Is the Modis reporting successful communications to the module? Does ABS engage properly if you lock 'em up?

You need a better scanner. The flashing cruise control light with the traction control light indicates an ABS code is present. Oh hey, so does the ABS light. Didn't see that at first.

The GS has a flex section, so probably not your problem. A smoke test of the intake system will not smoke test the exhaust system. Exhaust leak is not a primary suspect anyway if you're not whistling. Search this site for "vacation pics", you'll find the link right quick. The fuel pressure test will diagnose the pump and regulator. Easy & quick if you have a fuel pressure tester ($50 @ AutoZone; do NOT get the Harbor Freight POS).

OP: Do NOT do this! Running a stock map with a free-flowing downpipe is a clear path to #YNANSB.

Check fuel pressure - see the procedure in the vacay pics Use BTSSM to monitor for sub-threshold misfires at various RPM levels Consider a smoke test of the exhaust system. Do you get any whistling under boost? What brand up-pipe do you have?

Ditto. Any current plans to make more?

Eat me.

Oh sorry, obviously didn't read carefully enough. I would start with a slim jim to open the door bypassing the handles.

Removing the interior trim is pretty easy and definitely does not require drilling. Your Haynes manual or the vacation pics have the full details. A set of PLASTIC panel removers from Harbor Freight, etc. is often an asset for tasks like this.

Dorman 65236 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65236-AutoGrade-Drain-Plug/dp/B000C10EVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462449598&sr=8-1&keywords=Dorman+65236]Amazon.com: Dorman 65236 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug: Automotive[/ame] Available from Advance Auto Parts, etc. For some reason, some aftermarket up-pipes have an M12-1.5 bung, although the OEM bung is M12-1.25. This bolt is 1.5. It's about 5mm too long; rather than grind it down, you can sandwich a steel flat washer between 2 copper or aluminum crush washers for a quick & easy seal.

Pulling on the stalk isn't supposed to mist, it just gives you a single swipe of the blades. All is well.

LaunchTech CRP123, available for ca. $150 on eBay, etc. - NICE scanner.

Sigh, a cracked hose was dumping half the fluid on the hood liner. Inexcusable that it took me so long to find it. I suck.

Thanks! Is it OK to hook it straight to the battery with the car turned off, or could that burn up the pump?

My windshield washer used to spray about halfway up the windshield. Now it only sprays up a few inches. Not cool in the winter. I cleaned corrosion from the connector at the pump, checked the voltage there (12.0, fine), checked the hose for pinch points, blew it out with compressed air, replaced the fuse, and finally replaced the pump. I used an aftermarket pump, which required me to cut off the stock connector and rewire, thus eliminating remaining connector corrosion from the equation. Nothing made any difference. I'm wondering if maybe the circuit, though pushing proper voltage, can no longer handle the current required. Anyone seen this?

Found TSB 08-36-05, which seems to pertain to this problem. http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/er-sp-error-code-odo-5827.html? Really not looking forward to pulling out the driver's seat.

My '05 LGT developed a new problem with the speedometer today. The dashboard display said "Er SP", and the speedometer did not work. Next time I started up, it worked. Today is a very wet day. Anyone know where the water gets in to cause this?