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linksusmaximus

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Posts posted by linksusmaximus

  1. Have you tried a different key?

     

     

    This was also suggested and something i've yet to try.. Another major variable in my problem is that sometimes it starts. After i replaced the starter yesterday, it started. Then i turned the car off to test repeatability and it didn't start. So, i waited a few minutes.. then I put the key in and turned it quickly and it started. So i drove it home (it was stranded at work all weekend). It worked all day Sunday and i drove it to work today, no problems. This makes it incredibly difficult to pinpoint the fix.. EDIT: Hmm unless the battery in my key fob is dying..?

     

     

    Additional info:

    - Leading up to this I'd get a loud grinding/screech after the ignition turned over. Led me to believe starter issues..

    - I sometimes lose the power to auto-open/auto-close my driver side window. Other times it works fine.

    - Backup camera flickers on/off sometimes while moving in reverse each time I give it gas.

  2. Opening this up again because I'm having similar issues. So far i've replaced my battery (9/3/19) and my starter with a used but healthy starter (9/22/19).

     

     

    Here's the deal - if I put my key in the ignition, wait a second or two to let the ceremonies finish, then try starting it I will either A. hear a "click" or B. my engine cranks once or twice then cuts off.

     

     

    Now, if I put my key in the ignition quickly and turn the key quickly without letting any ceremonies finish, I get about 10 engine cranks and then cuts off. This is a repeatable phenomenon.

     

     

    Brand new battery, healthy starter, ~12.5 volts off, 14+ volts running, and I cleaned/tightened all connections at battery, starter solenoid, and battery ground. No one I know has any ideas.. can anybody take any guesses? EDIT: Forgot to add, push starting did not work after 4 tries.

  3. I get a vibration in the clutch pedal every once in a while. Usually right after I semi-drop the clutch for a spirited launch, but it can happen randomly every few thousand miles. I think it's just built up clutch material dust on the pressure plate or disc. With the engine running and out of gear at a stop, I depress the clutch and slip my foot off it a few times to let it freely pop up. That seems to dislodge whatever imbalance is causing the vibration and it goes away. Still on stock clutch at 55k miles.

     

     

    I've had this exact thing happen to me a few times as well after a hard couple of pulls in 1st - 3rd gears. Freaked me out the first time. Same remedy though - at a stop I kind of "pump" it away by depressing the clutch pedal a few times. Doesn't happen every time. Haven't had any related issues.

     

     

    Edit: BTW I still have my clutch damper. Haven't gotten around to the mod, but thought the info would help from someone who hasn't fugged with it yet.

  4. Would borrowing the stock mid pipe help? I don't get up there for work anymore, but I'd be happy to let you borrow the stock one if you get down here now and then.

     

     

    I really appreciate that Sarang, but unfortunately i'm never over there. Currently on the east coast. My goal is probably quite a stretch - I want to go full catback and match the Nameless axlebacks I have now with a Nameless midpipe to avoid a frankenstein setup. I found someone willing to fab a midpipe modeled off the discontinued 5th gen Nameless midpipe (apparently they can get the fab prints from Nameless), but he also needs to mock it up.. I assume for quality control purposes? Unless he's BS'ing me.

  5. Oil change, installed Fumoto drain valve, removed front lip and epoxied a nasty crack, plasti-dipped said front lip, epoxied my rear view mirror back on to my windshield, installed a custom etched front plate delete, reattached some rubber skirt thing hanging underneath the car due to a missing clip, helped the old man install a new rear bumper on his 01 Dakota.. I guess this is what happens when the girl is out of town for the weekend.

     

    Pic of front plate delete attached.

    20180507_180057.thumb.jpg.2495ff77c4fa4a58ff68c5af351d3a5d.jpg

  6. Picked up a set of Enkei RS05RR 18x8.5 et42 for my gen 5 wagon. Still trying to decide on rubber size though. Either 235.45.18 or 245.45.18. ... I've seen a few pics in this thread with 245.45.18 but most of them had stock ride heights. Maybe I didn't go back far enough.

     

    My Rotas are 18x8.5 et38 and I'm running 245 45 R18. Ever since I installed my H&Rs, I rub the inner plastic wheel well lining when driving fast (~60 mph) and hitting dips (not necessarily bumps). Now, if i turn left while hitting a dip, my tire rubs the fender lip and deforms it outward :mad:. This is something I'm in the process of taking care of - i.e. making an appt and rolling my fenders - but for what it's worth that is my experience. Next summer I will most likely be purchasing 235 40 R18.

  7. I FINALLY posted my Exhaust video to YouTube. I never knew how easy it was..

     

    Anyway, here is the info:

     

    2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i 6MT w/ Dual Nameless 5-in Axleback Exhaust

     

    (Sorry for the shaky camera.. wanted quick and dirty)

     

    Midpipe is from a 2012 Legacy GT. Exhaust hangers were welded on the passenger side and bumper cutout removed to be able to install the dual Nameless Performance Axlebacks.

     

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeNtsfOy7Uw]2013 Subaru Legacy 2 5i 6MT w/ Dual Nameless 5-in Axleback Exhaust - YouTube[/ame]

  8. Installed my Rear Koni/H&Rs setup this weekend, finally! I was lucky to have had experience replacing springs in my old Legacy, so this was a breeze. 1h 45m total, jacking one wheel up at a time with the spare tire jack. Zero issues. Really a satisfying mod.

     

    As for the feel of the setup, as you can see I replaced an old Bilstein/RCE setup and I've immediately noticed an improvement.. and that's without the Fronts installed yet. I'm 1/2 turn from full-firm and so far I think it's perfect. Tighter feel around turns and I think the quality of the combo, even so close to full-firm, has mitigated the teeth-chatter significantly. We'll see how she rides overall (hopefully this weekend) when the Fronts are in.

    20171014_163541.thumb.jpg.6ff2014597863c48219dd5b956667067.jpg

    20171018-122737.thumb.png.ca16191a21bb2c7630a525652180312b.png

  9. FWIW, since Subaru has a revised part for the TB hose/coupling that doesn't have/need the stupid fart-gaskets, one could just buy that part from Subaru. Its probably cheaper than the Perrin part and since bursting it isn't an issue, just as good/better since fitment is guaranteed not an issue like some people have with the Perrin part (though that's usually because the T-Bolt clamps they supply are a tiny bit small).

     

    I know this is the wrong thread, but to add to this - I can't know for sure if this part (see attachment) is the "revised" part you're talking about (it doesn't really specify if it comes without the couplers on each end, nor if it is [i would assume] longer?).. BUT, either way, it's listed at about $56. Then add the hose clamps at $8/ea and you're at $72 pre-ship. Perrin lists their coupler + clamps at $63 pre-ship. If I decide to buy, I think i'm just going to go with the Perrin piece. Hopefully the "ENG" to "ITR" fix handles any headache..

     

    Anyway, I may be doing the clutch damper delete very soon with a buddy who has a 4th gen. He's doing his too. Which now makes this relevant!

    Capture.thumb.JPG.afd7a8a2ff10180306079937720fda7d.JPG

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