Silinc3r

Joe, I think you can buy COP pig tails. I'll see if that is what I did

Just got back from driving from Charlotte NC to Sierra Vista and back the other and will need to replace my alt as well. When I got to AZ I was thinking the long trip across Texas at speeds of 75 to 90 for such a long time perhaps the motor was starting to let go. The following day I started it up and it sounded like shit so I did an immediate oil change and it seemed to help a bit but no shavings. I was perplexed but had faith in my little buddy.

Well, upon making it back to the folks house in ATL I had sometime to look and noticed the bolt that is used to tension the alt had back all the way out and was luckily pinned between the AC lines and the nut block. So, I was like ok that is the noise. Still not sure how I lucked out on the tension not letting go while I was across Texas somehow. Revoed the bolt and started her up after a fresh oil change, noise was still there. Was like damn, it's coming from the front of the motor, perhaps a cam bolt has come lose. Further inspection and conclusion. Without the tension it was pulling on the alt bearing a weird way and I'll just need a new alt!!!!

Just got back from driving from Charlotte NC to Sierra Vista and back the other and will need to replace my alt as well. When I got to AZ I was thinking the long trip across Texas at speeds of 75 to 90 for such a long time perhaps the motor was starting to let go. The following day I started it up and it sounded like shit so I did an immediate oil change and it seemed to help a bit but no shavings. I was perplexed but had faith in my little buddy.

Well, upon making it back to the folks house in ATL I had sometime to look and noticed the bolt that is used to tension the alt had back all the way out and was luckily pinned between the AC lines and the nut block. So, I was like ok that is the noise. Still not sure how I lucked out on the tension not letting go while I was across Texas somehow. Revoed the bolt and started her up after a fresh oil change, noise was still there. Was like damn, it's coming from the front of the motor, perhaps a cam bolt has come lose. Further inspection and conclusion. Without the tension it was pulling on the alt bearing a weird way and I'll just need a new alt!!!!

Never mind no one responds on here anyway. I got it all fixed brand new again.

 

See that, you didn't need us to hold your hand, bravo!!! Now I just need to follow your lead and fix mine.

How much is it for a new dash?

https://i.imgur.com/keTx2Vw.jpg

 

OMG, androids are real and I want one!!

**** I missed the deadline

for future

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/meth-kit-water-only-161699.html

What is the chance a really worn clutch might be making the car pull timing? My thought is perhaps, a certain part the throttle is applied and the car is seeing this, air is increasing and fuel is being added. Then the clutch starts slipping and the ECU says wait a minute what is going on. Since nothing is really wrong, the car just pulls timing and doesn't reduce DAM since it isn't detonation but it still wants to be safe.That is what the feedback knock is basically right? FKL doesn't move nor does DAM. I can provide a log of course if you think that will show anything.

Sounds like your tune is too aggressive, or you have a mechanical problem somewhere. Since switching to 91 alleviates the problems, it's probably the 93 tune that's the culprit. Unless you're really putting terrible gas in there. Where do you fill up?

 

You never want to see changes in DAM. Only light feedback knock (no more than -2.8) and the occasional FKL of -1.4 is within the "normal" range. Anything more es no bueno.

 

 

I only use Shell or BP. I am the weird guy that will drive the extra mile just to get to one.

 

Yea both of those have for sure been over those values. The car doesn't smoke, doesn't hesitate, vacuum is right at 20 inmg.

 

I'll be doing a pretty big overhaul here hopefully soon and I guess have to really dig deep.

So finally got my rear JDM tail garnishs!!!! A guy had bought them and posted on facebook about it and I immediately told him I'd buy them right now or if he changed his mind let me know. Well his car was black and the garnish just happened to be in the JDM white, #36 or #32, whatever. So about a month or so and he posts they are for sale on FB, I was like yoooo I said I'd buy them. So I bought them and threw them on. Unfortunately the OP from Japan had them tinted and then the garnish put on and I was digging it so I was able to separate the garnish and the tint from the light. Put them on my original JDM tails and life is good!! I don't know why they made so few of these. The front garnish is still available but the rear is not.

So anyone know if the famous "bad gas" would give a DAM of 0.000 when on a 93 tune but went to a 91 tune and DAM has set at 1.000 since? I still don't really understand the fine knock learn and DAM. When I was on the 93 tune, DAM would kind of do what it wanted sometimes and FKL was always doing things. I thought it was normal though. Could I just really be getting bad gas all the time and the tun doesn't like it? Again, isnce i switched to the 91 tune nothing has moved.

Hey I am trying to figure out if this is legit. The guy has posted any pictures of the damage yet. Also set you PM.

That's is gorgeous, but now I'm confused haha.

You'll get better throttle response and you can always fab up some sort of heat shield or ram to it. Reduces all the extra crap that will heat up anyways. Just a thought. Driving a Subaru, we already know what the intake temps are driving even desnorkled. You aren't turboed so the the air isn't going to heat up that much unless you are just sitting.

Here's a couple of cardboard mock ups of the two different radii 180s I've found so far...

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/VVT%20swap/DSC_0191_zpsogujknfy.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/RodanAZ/Miata/VVT%20swap/DSC_0192_zpswrbr9ctq.jpg

 

The wider fouls on the headlight, the tight one fouls on the throttle linkage... So it's hot side for now. Once the car is running I'll investigate other options. One possibility is cutting the tight radius pipe and welding the leg back on at a slight angle. That particular one is cast, so I need to look into welding cast Al. My TIG skills on Al are rudimentary at best, so I need to practice a bit before I'm ready for that.

 

At least the hood closes on the current setup...

 

Aren't you running megasquirt? Why can't you just stick a low pro filter on the end?

Tactrix has been sent out for a repair and will be repaired for free! So far, their communication has been great.

 

And because I never posted a picture of my GS TMIC, looks the same as all the others. Did the hand test after 15 minutes of freeway driving and was pretty impressed. Hot side is hot and cold side is cold.

http://i.imgur.com/ofXRGxr.jpg

 

The stock TMIC will give you the same outcome if you are just cruising on the highway.

All it takes is powdercoat...

 

Yea, trust me I've thought about it but don't know if I could do that to new wheels

I still can't tell if I want those STi wheels. If only them came gold I think I would have done it a long time ago. Looking at your car and trying really hard to not buy things....doesn't work very well.

Just started full time back at school and went to the gym to get my yoga pant sightings in. Holy shit some of these girls. One girl had a line of guys just waiting to talk to her haha. The girls sole job in the gym now is to work on their ass. God bless em.

Received mine a couple weeks ago. So as they said. If you get a refund, you should expect a follow up email when they come back in stock.

Damn Rodan, you're a BOSS

Mr. Bean's setup is the cheapest and best way to go for anyone not wanting anything crazy or wanting to save money for other parts. Had mine hand built from him maybe close to 2 years now with no issues. Running 19/20 psi no problem. Drag strip, top end runs, dyno pulls you name it no problems. Such a simple but well thought out solution to keeping a well engineered piece from Subaru.

If you've done your research you'll know what the stock TMIC is capable and the cons of going with a larger full metal TMIC.

Thanks again!!

I don't like the doesn't show the engine. That is a indicator to me how well the car has been looked after.

But that is about the same price I'd sell mine for. He has good taste. Needs engine pics though.

So, I am holding off on the fuel pump for now but will probably still do the wiring. Tuner put me on SD tune as I guess my MAF was/is going out. On top of that with the extra power the clutch is starting to show signs of slipping, damn it.

 

When I tried to get the alignment the first time we found out the inboard rear lateral link bushings had broke and now just rotates. I have been hearing clunks and thought it was the coils but now I am sure it is those bushings. I went ahead and got the whiteline rear lateral adjustable kit and will swap in the Spec B part that allows toe adjusment with the whiteline kit.

 

Nothing can ever just be done as I can't leave stuff alone haha.