Silinc3r

Sold to Code

Any chance of selling just the front seat bottoms?

swapped 06 spec B seats into my 05 but the passenger detection systems are different.

Some extra photos

Ok, sorry for the late response.

 

code had first dibs, I have messaged him about it.

cataburu is next.

tysparks81, at the moment unless one of the other guys don’t need them I am not looking to separate.

lee07 - I’ll keep you in the loop

 

 

Bump

Understandable but the brembos are free because they are messed up. Don’t really want to waste time cleaning something that is free.

Any offers???

Bought for my 2005 Legacy GT but ended up being too much work than I was willing to give credit. Disc and pads were never installed. One bracket was barely mounted, no time driven.

this comes with the fast WRX kit

kns adapter brackets with hardware

rear adapter rotors so you don’t have to change the brake shoes

———-

then brakes are Girodisc magic brake pads

——

Throwing in with the package. 
2 sets of brembo calipers. One set will need helicoils and the other will need to be redone.

 

Asking $525 shipped in US only. Not looking to split at this time. Located in Kennesaw GA

 

feel free to reach with questions

sorry for the late reply.

So the push start is just that, just replaces having to turn the key. Just a nice novelty. Though, from how I installed it, even if someone had the key, they'd like never know where to find the button.

 

Someone stole my keys back last December, that was a pain. one guy at Subaru said they would have to replace the cluster for like 2500. Ended up just getting new keys cut and reprogrammed. Under $500 after all said and done.

 

 

Brake shudder has been fixed. Rear left caliper finally gave up the ghost. That is a relief.

New engine is still doing fine. Still would like to get an updated tune to run 93 again.

Still need to fix the air bags by swapping front lower seat assemblies.

Paint on hood has flacked off.

Blender door in A/C is shot so im lucky if i get directed air.

other than that, just glad to be driving it.

 

And picked up a 2015 Outback 3.6R!!1

and an official end thread on a good note!!!

The issue is fixed!!!

It was a bad rear left caliper. The caliper ended up seizing and replaced with stock rear caliper and new pads/rotors and the brake shudder is gone!! I am a bit embarrassed that I never thought it might be a rear caliper issue.

A give away perhaps should have been that the steering wheel never pulled when the brakes shuddered. 

probably overdue for partout

 

Not now lol, Ill wait till this motor goes and then go from there

It could be a bad wheel bearing, especially if you have changed pads, rotors, and calipers. would explain why it is coming and going. A bad lower ball joint might also cause that but it less likely.

 

Glad I could respond in a timely manner

 

control arms are new with ball joints and I have no sound for the wheel bearing. I also believe I changed that side so it shouldn't be an issue. But doesn't hurt to check it out.

 

Side note, just dropped a new 2019 STi RA short block in. Brakes still suck lol

I think thats exactly why I shouldn't? Iconic and cliche are only a hairs width apart...

 

But they are factory wheels so it's allowed lol

Well, having trouble posting pictures

Gonna be having some pics incoming.

 

Lastest update, new 2019 STi RA block installed due to the notorious #4 cylinder giving up. Car had been smoking for quite sometime and after the TOMEI ARMS turbo swap made it worse I believe because the turbo was getting over supplied. Ended up busting the piston and messing up the driver head.

 

Had a VF52 sent out for rebuild and billet wheel upgrade. Replaced the driver head with a used one and both heads sent off to the machine shop. New AVCS cam sprockets and solenoids, new oil pan and oil pump. Finally decided to get a new radiator while I was at it and did the #4 Dom cooling mod to hopefully alleviate that issue for the future.

 

Currently working on the break in mileage now. May try and get an updated tune but I shouldn't need one as nothing really changed.

currently got the transmission dropped to install a FM happy meal with 10.3 fly wheel. Gonna be so awesome, can't wait.

don't remember her name but google image search should pull something up.. but yeah every one i have seen with those pants on is built like a peterbilt below the waist

 

And let me mention, I do not mind at allll

DAMN, those gymshark girls are monsters from the waist down

Ok, I thought that is what it wanted me to do. I don’t really feel like bringing a wire back that far haha. Unless I route it under the chassis. So the voltage at your pump reads nearly 14v?

Just completed the fuel pump wire upgrade. Go back to post 126 to see photos and test results.

And just in case since I didn't see any mention of it. You can in fact de-pin the fuel pump connector. Took me awhile to figure it out but I got it.

 

Place a flat head underneath the white portion where it meets the little rubber o-ring and yes the gray portion of the plug to leverage the white part up.

It will slide up and stop. From here you can pull the white part off or just leverage it more and it'll come off.

From here, get your small flat tip de-pinning driver and as normal unseat the lock tap and pull the pin out.

Be warned there is not much room to work in there to cut and crimp as I did instead of soldering. I chose this route because I wanted to be able to heat shrink and don't like to solder anymore.

A lit bit of a bump but finally testing voltages and installing my kit. I have looked into this about 2 years ago when I installed the pump but decided to not worry about. Now that I am looking into higher HP numbers I wanted to make sure it's good.

 

AccessPort=APort

Before adding wires

V@Pump-13.06

V@FPCM-13.37

V@APort-14.08

@idle OT

After adding wires

V@Pump-13.32

V@FPCM-13.36

V@Aport-14.08

@idle OT

 

This was a quick test and haven't made a solid connection, just wrapped the new wires around a window on the stock wires. Will double check to see what it does with a solid connection.

 

I am curious to what your numbers were before. I have a buddy that has a very stock GT and I will be testing his to see the difference. I have also added grounds in the engine bay and curious to see if that had any effect. My numbers seem to be pretty high of the start.

Going to try and update this since it's been awhile.

 

Finally installed the factory rain visors JDM visors, $144 shipped to your door

installed the STi push start P/N: ST83031ST040

Zero Sports rear strut bar, didn't even know it existed P/N:BG170225005

Zero Sports V-effector Voltage Stabilizer and V-Earthing Ground

Zero Sports Cool Action II Splinter in BLUE!!!!

Blitzen door sills

part of the STi pedal set, dead pedal is going to take sometime to make work and the gas pedal isn't supposed to work but I'll make it work.

P/N:SG317FG010

What size TS10s are on?

 

Sorry for the late response, 18x8.5