baconbits

I need something that can level/cover cracks which is down to Nature Stone or self leveling concrete unless there's something I don't know about.

I need to stop thinking about this until I get the house so I can make a decision after all the demo.

Do you have any experience with Nature Stone? I've considered it for my basement as well.

My boss had it done in his basement. He had about 500 sqft done between three rooms and a hallway. I think he said it was about $3500 which works out to $7 sqft, installed. I would be doing a 20x12 rectangular room which is simple compared to his. He mentioned he talked to the guy installing it about how quoting works... color and thickness (factoring in uneven floor) play into it, area to be covered, and corners that need to be navigated. Three rooms and a hallway is a lot more corners and leveling work for a single pour than one single room with four corners.

I want it because it's virtually ideal for a basement floor. It insulates it because it's porous, it drains, it breathes, and it can't be ruined if the basement does flood. I also believe the epoxy they use is antimicrobial too. The only downside is price that I can tell.

I don't think it's that bad. I won't know until I demo more/anything.

If it's that bad, I'll have to do Nature Stone.

That was the thought...

Pull up the floor, do all demo, clean up and evaluate. Mold, water, cracking, etc.

Decide where to go from there. The ceiling is already pretty low (right around 7 feet) so I'm hoping the floor isn't TOO bad so I don't lose a lot of height with the leveling concrete.

How bad is it cracked?

I haven't pulled up any of the linoleum but you can tell it's bent pretty good from the cracking underneath. Threw a small torpedo level on it and it doesn't look pretty.

Just realized the floor under the peel-and-stick linoleum tiles in the basement is cracked... there goes my plans of ceramic tile.

I guess Nature Stone is my only option at this point. F...

It's been just under a month since the last post so I should be okay.

'07 Kona Explosif with a Fox Float 80RL. I switched back to my cheap BWW wheelset after some issues with my Hope Hoops... really missing those Hope hubs.

With pedals, I'm right around 25lb... if only I could weight-weenie myself...

Expansion joints?

My kitchen plumbing will need some work but I think it'll be good until I get to remodeling the kitchen.

Funny you say that.

My neighbor and I (I'm 26, he's 37) have Tim Allen/Wilson conversations about home remodeling at our chain link fence a couple nights a week. Talk of joining our attics with rope bridges, garages with tunnels, etc...

Going to tag this thread for future reference... I'm currently in the process of buying a house and I'm going to attempt to do most of the remodeling myself.

Hopefully I'll remember some pictures of the awful/before because this house is stuck in the 70s and early 80s.

Definitely interested in a better TMIC option and loving the idea for an extra bung for IAT or even meth for those using it.. Some of us have no interest in a FMIC but still want to be able flow enough to cover all the standard LGT turbo upgrades (BNR) on E85..

 

I'm using an IPR right now and it's a real pos.. It needs to come in cheaper than the PW though..

Off the top of my head, the Grimmspeed STI one was $225 +/- cheaper than the Process West one.

Quality fitment is worth the price of admission.

 

To be confident that you put it on once and everything falls into place and nothing blows off.

It's like you're reading my mind. Fitment is everything for me.

Really appreciate the input though and like I said, I don't totally disagree. We should be able to design a TMIC with a sweet spot between 250whp and 550whp or so (with a target of 400whp dead in the middle) without trouble. Obviously it would support more or less, but less efficiently. To be perfectly honest, at less than 250whp, your stock TMIC is likely not your limiting factor.

Agreed with the 250whp comment. I'd love to get closer to 300whp without loosing too much quick, sub-3000rpm spool, but that might be getting close to having cake and eating it or something like that.

400whp sounds good to me... probably won't ever get that high, but if I'm going to spend $6-800 on a TMIC, would I get one that's "good" for my power numbers but fits like dookie or would I want one that's slightly too big for my power numbers but fits minty? I'd get the one that's slightly too big... bragging to friends is good for another 10whp, right?

I think 425whp is well into the FMIC range... at that point, you're mid 500s crank with rods/pistons and something GT30 series.

Give me something that's good for 350-375whp and I'll be happy.

Laughing DynoJet and Mustang numbers out the door, the local tuner/dyno shop uses an AWD SuperFlow dyno. Cobb stg2 OTS 93+SF, Invidia catted downpipe, Cobb short ram, custom 3" catback, and I did 231awhp/233awtq. I'd be lucky to hit 300awhp with a VF52 and a pro-tune (estimated), and that's all I need for a DD/fun car as it's my only car. If I wanted more than that, I would definitely look into an FMIC.

After my coworker got his TMIC off the group buy for his 04 STI, I've been waiting for one of these. Both of us are engineers by day and seriously picky about stuff... all I could manage to say was that it was a quality piece.

I've been following the thread on NASIOC on and off and I'm liking what I see over there too.

The headlands invasion.. Why am i thinking this is mostly veedubs?

Because it is. The local Subaru group NEOSOC (check em on Facebook) always goes too though.

If you where up here I have a guy but nothing down that way

Where and how much? Looking for something like 50% so I don't get hassled by cops for tint. Black leather on a silver car doesn't help...