Dishwasher

I'm still around, let me know if you have any questions. I work for a personal injury firm now, which is weird seeing how the sausage is made on this side of the fence. 

Total losses are usually based on comps and NADA value. Most companies including USAA use CCC to do their total loss evaluations which just take an average of comps and average it in with book value. It's usually pretty fair. Aftermarket stuff isn't really counted differently than a factory part as an aftermarket part usually has similar cash value to a replacement part from the factory. Sometimes you can add endorsements to your policy to help with that, YMMV. 

Total loss valuations are usually significantly better than what you'd get trading the vehicle into a dealer. Cars like ours with cult status though don't really fare well though. 

1 hour ago, SilentJ20 said:

Just did a short block on mine a bit ago (had heads machined, did clutch, etc).  What's your reason?  Mine was ringlands!

At first I was terrified of taking things apart.  Well, more like getting anxiety over seeing all the parts scattered around.  But for all their quirks, at least the engines come out easy and seem simple enough to work on.

Yeah exactly although the jury is still out on whether or not I can get it reassembled correctly. 
 

reason for the engine pull was a burnt valve. Decided to replace the shortblock since I was using quite a bit of oil too so might as well. 

Pulled the motor today. 130,000 mile clutch with mostly highway miles is still in half decent shape. Still gonna replace it. Gonna start breaking down the short block shortly so the heads can get machined. Definitely bent the studs that go into the transmission while pulling it. Oops. First engine pull so feeling good otherwise. VF40 has no shaft play either. 

Those ground straps to the heads always wear out. Replaced them with 10 awg copper and problem solved when I had this issue. 

Worth doing whether or not you have the audio whine. Some folks speculate that the grease on the throw out bearing deteriorates due to bad grounding causing arcing.

21 hours ago, subisubisu said:

Unsolicited advice from someone only slightly more experienced:  get the cheap little plastic tool to release the fuel line connections.  Don't try the screwdriver method you might see on YouTube.  It's possible to chew up the plastic grip inside, and if you mess those hoses up enough, they are not easily found as OEM replacements.

 

20 hours ago, m sprank said:

You might want to check the pump too and that makes it uber easy to drain the tank.  Dont waste your money on plastic fuel line disconnects, get the aluminum ones. 

 

Good to see you back. 

Ordered the aluminum tools from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCK28T8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Also ordered new turbo inlet from Subaru, this will be my third. 

Heard from the shop that the timing chains for my 2017 F150 which have been on back order since the beginning of May might be coming in today. That vehicle is still under Carmax warranty which in my 1 year of ownership has spent a measly $14,000 keeping that 50k mile truck running. (New Flex Plate, New 10r80 transmission, new Seat cooler, new cam phasers, new timing chains, new water pump, new transmission cooler). Ecoboosts are fun. 

 

 

Oh that’s clever as shit. Thank you

What's the best way to drain a fuel tank? I'm guessing this one is full of water at this point. 

Aisin kit ordered. Crank pulley is on its last leg. Ordered a Dorman OEM replacement from Rock Auto, also picked up a Koyorad Radiator from Rock Auto, new radiator hoses. Also ordered a Grimmspeed TMIC, they're on back order right now, but I'm in no hurry.

Picked up a shop crane at Harbor Freight for $200. It was an open box that the prior owner had assembled improperly by putting the wheels in the wrong location. Got it sorted and it's good as new.  

Pulled alternator, ac compressor, radiator, intercooler. Still need to pull fuel lines, turbo, power steering pump and transmission, and then should be good to go to get the engine out. This is my first time pulling an engine so kinda excited/nervous. Just bagging everything in ziplocs and labeling, and taking photos diligently. The number of vacuum lines on this vehicle never ceases to amaze me. 

Yeah I had 50k miles on my Aisin kit before my engine popped, which was not due to a timing belt issue. I'll stick with the Aisin. 

It was years ago when Gates went through their little ordeal, I imagine it's fine now. I think the issue was with their water pumps. 

Here's the thread I was thinking of: 

 

Aisin Timing Kit was what I got last time, seemed to work well. Has Gates recovered from their episode of manufacturing defects or stick with the Aisin?

 

I have ARP head bolts in the current block now from a prior head gasket issue. I figure I'll reuse those as my understanding is that ARP head studs are reusable where OEM are not. If there's any damage to them then I'll replace. 

What's the go to radiator for stockish levels these days? That's a good call. 

I'll snag an oil pump shortly as mine is the original. 

Ordered a new short block today, along with a new Exedy Stage 1 clutch and SMFW, and engine gasket kit. Found a local shop to redo my heads. Gotta go pick up an engine hoist next. Things are moving along.

I had one for about 80k miles. Burnt a valve but fully intend to reuse the pick up in my rebuild. 

Any site vendors interested selling me a bunch of stuff?

Is JMP still at it?? I gotta give him a holler then. 

3 years ago my 06 5mt took a dump. Specifically the car was diagnosed with burnt valves. Vehicle has about 125k miles on it. At that time I parked it and haven't driven it since. At the time I had a 2 year old, was working a bunch, and opted to buy a truck en lieu of trying to work on this damn thing. 

Well work has slowed down, disposable income has increased, and it's time to put this grumpy car back together again.

Some issues to consider:

-The car hasn't been driven in 3+ years so the gas in it is useless and will need to be drained from the system.

-Does this mean fuel system is also shot? I currently have a lph300 in there I think? 

-Burnt valves means heads need to be refinished.

-I might as well do a new short block since it was on borrowed time with 125k miles anyway. Is the type RA block the go to OEM replacement? Or is the regular EJ257 the way to go?

-The stock VF40 is probably also due for a replacement as well. VF52 still a reliable alternative?

-125k mile clutch will be replaced, along with a single mass flywheel.

-Probably need a new inlet. 

-OEM intercooler is separating, and I'm thinking a Grimmspeed replacement would be a better fit

Goal will be to make this 300ish HP. Good canyon car, nothing crazy. If injectors with old fuel need to replaced I'll probably go with some ID1000s, but otherwise I have no intention of messing with the injectors. I'll have the car tuned locally at Ecotech. Currently it's got an up pipe, downpipe, ebcs, 2nd gen accessport.

Am I missing anything else? It's been awhile since I've looked around at the current meta on these cars. 

Ecotech St. Louis
8528 Watson Rd,
St. Louis, MO 63119

(314) 729-1100

These guys build subaru rally cars for Rally in 100aw. They know their stuff. 

Tuning, engine swaps, all things FA and EJ. 

This is what the guy who attacked Dave Chappelle had on him. I can’t imagine why this exists. If you wanna sneak a knife in somewhere, disguising it as a gun seems like a bad way to do it.

Crawford has offerings. I went OEM through them.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Happy with it so far?

I see. So, I am not the only one then. Also, I think this thread is getting too long (517 pages right now). I believe it induces issues on the forum server. I could be wrong though.

 

Yeah usually need a new version every 2k replies, we're at 7700 now.

So what are the shortblock options these days? Still IAG and OEM? Can we buy an S209 block?

Unfortunately that's the reality when attorneys get involved. Even if you win, they are the only ones that really win.

 

Are you an insurance adjuster? You sound like one.

 

Also this is just insane.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGEnFeVWoWA]Cover Me Up - YouTube[/ame]