Tr00b

Just wanted to update this thread. The claim was rejected on the damage a couple years ago. I've had continual issues with the finish on the car not taking wax correctly and wax coats and sealers looking greasy and streaky especially on the hood roof and trunk when the car heats up. Pretty much said "eff it" and just washed in in the coin wash since then. My financial situation has significantly degraded since then, and I now work from home so I don't need my commuter. I'm trying to sell the car and the buyers are balking at the paint issues and offering me 2-3000 less for the car. I'm asking "fair" kbb already for the car. One guy found rust already on the rear quarters just inside the door where the bottom of the door gap is. Looks like it got sandblasted to the metal with gravel. I thought I submitted pictures already but will update with the damage and where the rust is starting, someone might be able to catch it and stop it on theirs.

I'm noticing that my new battery is having trouble after a few days sitting again. Still haven't been able to get into the dealership to get fixed.

Got a group 34 Interstate at the local station for well under 150. The battery clamp took a beating from the acid, need to take it out and paint it. They didn't stock group 25. My car also started at 20 below last year no trouble. I want to hate this car enough to sell it but this SiriusXM trial right now and the fuel economy has me loving it again.

I didn't follow the procedure in post number 3 to the letter but an amp clamp on the wire, either positive or negative results in around .65 amps which is about 10 times the suggested limit of .070 amps. I'm going to try to run through that test as suggested but it's written extremely poorly, especially on the part with the buss bar which my car has. The battery also still tested as failed after 18 hours on a trickle charger. Did only slightly better, 280 amps at 9 volts. A friend was charging his phone in my car an left a USB deal plugged in to the 12v socket, that could also be a part of the draw, remembered it just now. A draw down test, will have to look that one up.

Ammcinnis sorry for the rehash on the question but thanks for the excellent answer. Apexi, I usually buy batteries from the local station and they are pretty good batteries (interstate) and spot on with the warranty. The batteries in my diesel truck are from 2013. Battery failed the test at 260 amps at 8 volts. Going to charge it overnight with a maintainer and try it one more time. Amp clamp is showing .65 amps draw.

I never had actual trouble or inconvenience till now really, will ask about the TSB. I have asked my closest dealership multiple times about any updates to the computers or recalls and they say they don't see anything I have to bring it in. Thanks for the amperage specs. Has anyone retrofit a larger battery?

My 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium (original battery) has had some battery issues the last year or so with an occasional slow crank. The terminals were fuzzy this summer and I cleaned them before I got stranded. Now, it seems to be going dead in a couple days if I don't drive it. I commute an hour so it gets good and topped off when I do. Initial tests show good charging system health, good idle (engine off) voltage. I've borrowed a battery load tester, amp clamp, multimeter. Does anyone know what the nominal amp draw of the car is in park with the ignition off and the doors shut or any common systems that create a draw?

https://www.kartboy.com/collections/2005-legacy/products/sti-droplinks These?

Nope have a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium.

Has anyone noticed a ride detriment with the bigger 22mm swaybars? I drive some really, really rough sealcoated roads that are twisty as heck. Car still rides great but not over that garbage. Getting outhandled by Traverses and Cherokees in it.

So I waited for a good while then checked on my claim when I got an oil filter for my next change. They never submitted the claim. Service manager still had pics on phone. He claimed to resubmit. Called a week later and said Subaru rejected the claim. Really a bummer. No idea if said service manager really followed through with the claim. They said that the damage was from an outside influence and not thier fault. In a sense it is, their awful paint is. Essentially the car has paint flaws that are going to severely detract from the value. I had nuggety ass junk for 10 years that wasn't worth detailing. Now I spent 20 grand for more nuggety ass junk not worth detailing. Sweet.

MrCobbs: What exactly happened to your paint? Same deal? and how long did it take to get it resolved? Securityguy: What do you mean by "push for the depreciation"? No response yet...

Did not ask any questions, took the pictures and they submitted for warranty approval by Subaru. I already know the service manager hates my guts from a little incident where he was having a bad day, so hopefully he submits it in an impartial way (or at least, submits it at all) Said it would take a week to get a response. The body shop manager said, and I quote: Paint just doesn't hold up anymore like it used to.

I'm going to try to get into the body shop at the dealership and see what they say... I have a place for a paint booth in my garage so I could try it myself, And I'm thinking about restoring my truck anyway. The one spot on the trunk lid is the only place that the touch up paint might help. The rest is blistered up and just looks bad. Looks like runs in the paint or someone dropped clear nail polish on it.

Beerguy, Well, its lifted... Now what? Going to go to the dealer body shop and see what they say. I'm fairly proficient with sanding and polishing but EVERY attempt at home body work has been straight out of a horror movie.

It's not so much the tar but the damage to the clear underneath the tar. I thought it was still tar and kept going after it, just thinking that it was super hard pine tar. It was distorted clear coat. I could about puke thinking about it. In reality the tar came right off no problem. I've been hammering on my clear coat with polishes and chemicals... Anyway the second picture is where paint actually came off. Better than stuffing grocery bags in rust holes so the heater could catch up, I guess (which was the reality with my last car) but still makes me about want to puke. I wouldn't expect a dealer to warranty it but it just seems flimsy to me. https://photos.app.goo.gl/F5qPpkCOPHIyvass1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/6h2Vs3yazbGT5ct23

I tried Wd40... and re-tried it on a spot on a door that I hadn't noticed before. It removes the pine tar just fine but leaves the clear coat all blistery and distorted looking where the tar was. Regardless of what takes it off the damage is done. I wish I had left it alone because the dealership isn't going to warranty a fingenail scratch all the way to the primer... They might warranty the blistery crap.

I got what I thought was pine tar on my Legacy during a vacation in Wisconsin. However multiple attempts to remove it have failed. Really sucks, it happened one month after I've bought the car and I've always hoped to be able to have a nice car I could wax and take care of. Always looks like hell with these white spots all over it. Metallic black in color too. This pine tar has totally resisted everything I've thrown at it. It basically became one with the clear coat and blistered and is one spot where it was the thinnest and any treatment might be more effective. It's now been more than 6 months. Supposedly isopropyl alcohol soaking and gentle buffing/a little fingernail action takes it off. Well it does. And the paint too. The tar essentially destroyed the clear coat and base coat everywhere it hit. I've tried everything from cleaner wax to bug and tar remover to Goo gone to multiple coats of wax. The car had a perfect wax job just before getting the tar on it. Looking like I have to shell out for a respray now.

Look like Porsche 944 flares

You haven't asked that many stupid questions yet!