BrandonspecB

Things have been sort of slow moving. Got two weeks more to wait for rods and valve springs.

Decided to pin the cylinders in the block myself. A coworker and I were talking about it and figured it can't be too hard. We have a mill and lathe, so I decided I'd give it a shot on a broken EJ25 case I have. Just need to turn down some aluminum rod I bought and press the pins in.

Once I get the block pinned I can take it to Metric Motors and they'll measure it and let me know what size pistons to order.

Turbo showed up. Sometimes I wonder if there is something wrong with me when things like this seem reasonable.

Xona Rotor 9567 with Tial 1.03 turbine housing. Found it used on ebay from Real Street Performance. They said it only had 10 dyno passes for testing. This setup new would have cost $2400, but I picked it up for $1800.

This is the tightest turbo I have ever handled. There is absolutely zero play in the shaft. New ball bearing Garretts have a little bit of play. This one is tight.

It's a big boy. Capable of over 900 whp. Precision nomenclature it would be a 6767. Garrett it would be a GT3794R. Borg Warner EFR would be 9472.

Am I sane?

Patiently awaiting results and simultaneously heart broken because something like this cannot come to life in Camifornia.

I really feel bad for you guys, especially with the new exhaust law. Here isn't much better though. We do have annual emissions testing we have to pass.

I'm excited to see this moving along! Stock crankshaft? What bearings? King makes a set for the EZ30: http://www.king-catalog.com/Catalog/Set/MB7772XP

Yeah, stock crank. From what I've read they hold up well. Nice to know there are quality bearings available. May have to have the machine shop use them.

so, why 3.0 and not 3.6L? Is it because there are more readily available aftermarket parts?

Yes.

Got the 4 cylinder torn down and ready to sell. Now that's it's off the engine stand I started tearing down the EZ.

I was really surprised how clean the engine was. It had an OEM oil filter. I'm really excited about no tumblers. The fuel injectors go right into the head. The manifold seals to the heads with o-rings and that's it. Makes me so happy.

The variable lift system is really cool. I would like to ditch it for reliability reasons, but I'm going to run it and see how well it works.

I found a great deal on the turbo I want. I wasn't planning on getting a larger turbo for a bit, but I just couldn't pass it up. It should be here in a week or so.

Waiting to hear back from Outfront on their rods. They said they should have some in any day now.

Got the engine pulled and stripped of everything that won't be going with it.

Here's a link to the ad on KSL https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/54841284

I also have a couple ads in the classified section here if anybody wants to see what else I'm selling.

H6 is going full steam ahead!

Starting a new build. Moving to a 6 cylinder. Build thread if any locals want to follow along: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-year-new-build-v-3-0-ri-277229.html

If anyone is interested in the 4 cylinder, I'll have it out next week. IAG stage 2 shortblock with 3200 miles. Heads are built with around 42000 miles on them. I'm going to place an ad on ksl for it once I have it out and I'll put a link to it here.

Build 1.0

Build 2.0

The never ending quest for doing something unique and better has led me to this. I really love the EJ, but I'm moving on. A 6 cylinder friend showed up from Japan this last week.

Build 3.0

EZ30R

Machine work by Metric Motors in Centerville, Utah

Pinned cylinders

Outfront 9.7:1 pistons

Pauter X-beam rods

King main and rod bearings

Outfront ARP head stud kit

Suptertech valve springs and titanium retainers

Hydra EMS

ID1050X injectors

Custom exhaust manifold

Probably have to add a 2nd fuel pump

Xona Rotor 9567 95 lb/min turbo

Looking to make 600-800 whp.

Wish me luck

So true!! I'll report back on where things go with getting a limp tune for this situation. Seems like it should be doable. This is just dumb since I feel like my time should be going towards putting in fun new parts like my tgv deletes and top feed conversion rather than putting cats and stock junk back on Maybe I can tell the health dept. jokers that I run e85 so my net CO2 footprint is low (less emissions than gas and growing corn consumes CO2 from the atmosphere and produces oxygen). Something tells me they wouldn't be amused

A limp map would work great. Put all your stock hardware back on and have your tuner make a map with your current injector settings, MAF settings for whatever intake will be on it, and zeroed out WGDC settings. Then just enable any disabled codes and the car should drive and pass just fine.

So I am stockpiling some parts for Bilstein/Pink upgrade.

 

Any recommendations for alignment shops? I am near Sandy but willing to travel for the right place.

 

I'll be using the Whiteline KTA124/KCA313 kits so I am thinking Big O won't be the best option.

I take my car to Ray at the Point S in Woods Cross. He knows how to adjust all the Whiteline stuff because I showed him how on my car. He also knows how to adjust camber plates. He's friends with two of my co-workers and is a great guy. He did the alignment on my co-worker's son's drift car. I'm not sure if you've heard of a guy named Wes that owns the Menlove car dealership? He has a garage full of restored Mopars and he only takes his car to Ray. He'll do whatever custom alignment you want.

 

Brandon Spec.B - Did you here back from Whiteline on the KDT907 fitment for the Legacy GT subframe? That seems like my best bet.

Yeah Whiteline said they won't fit.

I have the Whiteline 2008 WRX subframe bushing inserts (KDT902) installed on my car. They don't fit perfectly. You need to trim them up, but they will go in and they make a difference.

I emailed Whiteline to see if the replacement bushings (KDT 907) for the WRX will fit the Legacy GT. I'm still waiting for a response.

Yeah there's no doubt you can pull a decent vacuum in the inlet.

I guess the point I was trying to make is that if there is significant vacuum in the inlet then that means that part is becoming a restriction. But, I tend to look at things from a hardcore drag racing perspective.

Yeah, there's nothing wrong with getting rid of the inlet breather fittings.

I ditched the PCV and run my valve cover breathers and crank breather to a vented catch can. Best thing I ever did. No more oily crap in any of my intake pipes.

If there is enough vacuum in the inlet to pull a vacuum in the crankcase then the intake is too restrictive. The lower the inlet pressure of the turbo, the higher the pressure ratio will be. Ideally, you want the inlet pressure to be atmospheric pressure. This means no vacuum. You want the biggest, least restrictive intake that will fit.

PCV and breathers routed to the inlet/intake manifold are there for emissions and smell purposes. Can't have all that oily blowby getting into the atmosphere, ya know.

Left lane on the timeslip.

Event: Test and tune

Location: Rocky Mountain Raceway

Date: 4/16/2014

11.836 @ 127.44 - (BKatter) (6MT)

Ambient Temp: 60

Elevation: 4200'

Weather: Clear

Car: 2007 Legacy spec. B

Tuner: Myself

Track info: 1/4 mile drag strip

Transmission: 6 speed

Peak Horse Power at RPM: 520 @ 6400

Peak Torque at RPM: 481 @ 4700

Fuel: 91 octane and 475 cc/min meth/water injection

Engine/Power Modifications: Metric Motors built engine and heads with Wiseco pistons, K1 conrods, heat treated crank, new case, ARP headstuds, GSC S2 cams, BC valve springs and retainers, Supertech +0.5mm stainless intake and Inconel exhaust valves, Rotated Garrett GTX3576 0.82 hotside @ 30 psi, TiAL MVR wastegate, TurboXS FMIC, TiAL QR BOV, Kamak ELH, Perrin rotated up/downpipes, QT electric cutout, FIC 900s, DW65c, Snow performance stage 2 meth kit

Driveline Modifications: ACT HDSS clutch, ACT Streetlite flywheel, Group N engine and trans mounts, shifter bushings, rear subframe bushings, rear diff. bushings

Suspension Modifications: Bilstein HD struts, Swift springs, Whiteline front and rear sways

Other Modifications: Enkei wheels, spare tire delete, 1/2 tank gas

Just thought I'd add it only took 3 days for the new CHRA to get to me from Taiwan.

Once I got it and installed it in the housings I found the turbine was rubbing on the housing. Apparently when the blade let go it messed up the housing too.

I emailed Bruce at Kinugawa and sent him a picture and he's sending me a brand new housing out.

I also have to add that he responds within a few hours of me emailing him. He'll even respond when I email late at night. I'm very pleased with their service.

25 psi.

I'm going to sell it when I get the new CHRA. Just bought a GTX3576R.

thanks, will try that before starting. and thats all ? after starting I can use the car as usually and drive with full boost ?

It's also a good idea to do an oil change before starting the engine with a new turbo. Then prime it. With the turbo installed and the drain hooked up you can poor some oil into the feed hole just to get something in there before you prime it.

Well, after three months of being run pretty hard, my STS TD06H 20G gave it up.

I was getting on the freeway the other night and got on it a bit. 1st gear pulled nice and hard, but as soon as I shifted and got back in the throttle in 2nd there was no response from the engine.

As I was heading home to see what happened, I noticed that the turbo would whine instead of whistle and it wouldn't build any positive pressure. I pulled it last night and found quite a bit of play in the bearings and a chunk missing from the turbine.

I contacted Kinugawa today and sent them the pic of the turbine and they are sending me a new CHRA. I don't even have to ship the old one back. So, I'm pretty pleased. I ran that thing pretty hard. I had an FP turbo fail in 6 months after running it at 32 psi on my last car. FP was also super good about rebuilding their turbo under warranty.

I think I'm going to run less boost just to get some more life out of this new CHRA. Then, when I'm at the track I'll turn it up for a few passes.