GTEASER

IIRC, they are not direct bolt in to 5th Gen USDM cars.

Part numbers shown on the Bils and Pinks please.

bumping this for JDMBR9 and looking forward to his pics on the damper location of a RHD car.

For future reference, please send PM's or ask these types of questions in a general thread, not someone's build thread. I ordered the MK3 from eBay. Your voltage still seems weird 12.3 and jumping to 14.2, it should be a pretty constant 13.6 regardless of what accessories you're running. I'll bet $50 that the voltage regulator in your alternator is going out. Ordering a voltage booster won't really help you, it will just mask the root issue. Make sure you have healthy equipment before you start adding accessories.

Wasn't in a financial situation to buy it back then, but I also knew it wasn't going anywhere. It's safe in my stable now.

The ZHP is finally mine! Needs a passenger window and a water pump. 144k miles and a clean CarFax, I'm the 3rd owner. Needs a few little things but not much. Only 3 door dings and 1 scratch besides the typical front end rock chips. Got her for a steal!

It's the rush of torque at 3000 rpms.

Eh, thanks I don't need them that bad.

I would bet that you either have a bad battery ground or your voltage regulator is on the fritz.

I'll take them. What did you pay for them?

What is the charging output of your alternator? I have never heard of an alternator not charging the battery correct because of LED bulbs in your lights. The LED's should actually ease the amperage draw on the battery and charging system over conventional halogen bulbs. Do you have an AGM battery? If so, it is not being charged properly by the stock Subaru alternator output setting, thus the need for a voltage booster like the HKB Mk3. I have one in my GT and one in my Lexus GX470. Works great to keep my AGM batteries healthy and easy to install, no need to disconnect the battery. Just replace the factory ALT-S fuse with the HKB Mk3. Below is my video of install on my GT.

Those plant stands are nice! What do you use for a planer?

Which line is which? You know....for future reference to help other members.

I would never put those in a road car. I want all the crash structure around me that I can get.

Seems like a lot of PITA for a button to start your car instead of a tradition twist of the key.

Pic of installed brace pleez?

If you have stock rear LCA's there should be no hesitating installing these because the removing the stock LCA bolt and putting it back won't affect your alignment.

Perfect!

KYB Excel-G shocks and Mevotech complete LCA's from RockAuto will be the cheapest, but solid replacements. I would also recommend that you pick up a full set of new 13-14 Legacy OEM springs, the 10-12 springs are way too soft and the 13-14 are a solid upgrade while retaining stock ride height. Timing belt is straight up standard EJ253 SOHC fare, easy. Replace the tensioner too. Do the water pump and thermostat at the same time, OEM, the aftermarket companies have been going cheaper and cheaper on the water pump bearings and they have been known to fail early at 40k miles. Accessory drive belt is easy as mentioned above.

FWIW, the trans on my Lexus GX470 doesn't have a dipstick or a filler, so doing a full fluid exchange is challenging and time consuming for a shade tree mechanic like me. This is the method I used to pump fluid back into the trans via the return line and it worked like a charm although it was slow. I pumped out and replace 2 quarts at a time for a total of 12 quarts replaced, running it through the gears with each 2 quarts pumped. Pressurized jug method at 2:30

Oooo! Pierogis! Haven't had a proper one since I moved from the Buffalo, NY area back in '79.

This is so wrong! Your understanding of a basic transmission pump system is greatly lacking. It's an open circuit, not a closed system. The pump pulls from a reservoir, which is the transmission pan, which is not directly connected to the return line. Your 2 bucket method of disconnecting the pressure line from the pump to empty the trans, and expecting there to be suction on the other side of an open system to then suck new fluid from another bucket is wrong. The transmission will not "suck" fluid in because the other end of the return line simply drops the fluid into the transmission pan, into an open unsealed air cavity, there's nothing sucking on it, in fact there's even a fresh air vent to that cavity so no pressure, either positive or negative, is present at that point in the system. Fluid needs to be replaced through the filler hole or pumped into the return line with an external pump. But whatever, thanks for your highly inaccurate input Mr. Know-it-all!

For fock sake! Your presentation is akin to an itchy asshole....annoying, bothersome and grating. You're skirting the edge of ban hammer my friend.

Gotta post a pic per the rules.

What do yo mean, it's only 2x the cost of the blast plates, plus the STi trans and all the incidental bits.