ScottFW

Never timed it but Tactrix flashing takes just a couple-few minutes. Not lightning fast, but not ridiculously slow either.

I replaced my butt element a couple of weeks ago. I had the part for almost a year, but didn't want to replace it during the warm weather so as to not put unnecessary butt cycles on the element and have it break any sooner. Upon removal it was obvious that the wire had burned through where the metal bar from the seat cover pinches into it. I used a new factory element, but I put some pieces of thick plastic tubing over the bars in the seat cover, to hopefully distribute the force over a wider area so it doesn't pinch the heater wire as badly. Who knows if it will do any good in the long run. The broken element that I removed will be repaired by soldering in some new thicker wire, so I'll have a spare ready to go if/when it fails again. The whole process took a little over 4 hours, including the extra time spent cleaning and conditioning the leather while I was at it. It's nice to have the butt warmer working, however to my chagrin, the lower back element still doesn't work. Not sure if I care enough to figure that out. The butt heater is the important one and it doesn't get that cold here anyway.

The FX300 kit will include a throwout bearing, NTN brand I believe was in mine. I succumbed to fear-based marketing and went with the TSK3 kit though. You should also replace the pilot bearing while you're in there, and I don't remember that coming with the clutch kit. I went with the 06+ WRX fitment SMFW which came with a new pilot bearing in it already. Since you need to get the flywheel resurfaced, you might as well source your new pilot bearing ahead of time, that way you can have the machine shop press that in for you. In theory, your ACT flywheel should work, provided the flywheel and clutch kit are both supposed to fit the same year & model of car. Whether it will work in reality, I guess you'll find out. Not sure what clutch you're running with it now, but the FX300 is slightly "grabby" on engagament. For the daily driving in stop-and-go traffic that my car sees I probably wouldn't choose to run it with a super light flywheel, but that's personal preference.

I have the CM FX300 and TSK3 kit. About 2500 miles on it, so far so good.

I did mine 100% solo. To keep the engine from rocking too far forward when re-mating the trans, I just used some scrap lumber wedged between the front of the engine and the back of the rad fan area, all on the driver's side. It's a little more ghetto than using a SST but it works and the force involved isn't high enough to stress or break any parts, at least it didn't on mine. There is no way I would have been able to do the job without the $9.99 four-piece pry bar set from HF. Obviously you'll want them to separate the engine & trans, but it helps for re-mating too. A long pry bar can exert some much-needed forward pulling force against the back of the bellhousing flange when you wedge the tip against part of the subframe. Just mind the hard lines down there. I anti-seized a bunch of stuff on reassembly including the dowel pins, but I hope to not find out its effects anytime soon. Nolmers, you have my sympathy. I'm going to shit if I don't get several years out of this TOB.

$623 for a torque wrench?!? I call that getting swindled and pimped. I call that getting tricked by da business. I used the small HF trans jack when I did my clutch. It's not the best, in fact it kind of sucks, but it did the job and only costs ~$60-70 if you use the ubiquitous 20% off coupon. The top plate has a piss poor range of tilt/articulation and it helps to have a selection of 2-by and 1-by scrap lumber to shim it up to the bottom of the trans. And the shape of the jack legs doesn't allow the casters to swivel completely (absurd design defect). But it will work well enough to support the trans and slide it back & forth.

^^^ Probably. Assuming you have a 4th gen (you should put your car info in your profile if you're going to ask for help) the switch in the center console sends a lower voltage output to the heater element. If it's not lighting up, it's probably dead on that side and not sending any voltage to the heater. The "vacation pix" have a couple of pages about the seat heater system and how to use a multimeter to diagnose if the switch is good or not. The good news is, it's easier, faster, and cheaper to replace the switch unit than it is to replace a broken heater element. The bad news is, the element may also be broken and need replacing. You can't know that until you know whether the switch is outputting voltage or not.

Good writeup and good info from other posters as well. I finally got around to dealing with this. I first pulled the heater element cloth out the back with the seat still in the car. All of the wires at the back of the butt element were still connected. Then I figured maybe mine weakened and burned through somewhere, so I took the seat out of the car, disassembled it a good bit and removed enough of the hog rings to look at the whole element. I couldn't find any evidence of a burned out section, but my multimeter didn't show continuity between the two ends of the loop so it must be broken somewhere in there. Looks like I'll be ordering a replacement butt element, and some hog ring pliers. I put the seat back in the car without the hog rings secured just so I can drive it in the mean time. It's not too bad of a job, but I was hoping it was one of the more common failure modes that was easier to ID and fix without buying a new element. Oh well.

^^^ Timmmaaaahhhhh! I've been neglecting mt.net since I've been working on sorting out this LGT and reading up on open source tuning. Little bit different than Megasquirt. I need to get caught up on the other forums soon. And now I have to poke around the driver's seat area and try to find the one map light module screw that I dropped yesterday.

Just did this mod (new LGT owner) and I'm loving the extra light up front. Instead of soldering the diodes directly to the wire that runs to the dome light, I used insulated spade connectors there in case I ever need to remove the whole module again. http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/sw126687/LGT/maplightmod1.jpg I also opted to swap the pins in the map light connector rather than cut & resolder. Trying to get those pins out probably made the whole mod take three times as long as it should, so I took some pics that might save some man hours for anybody doing this in the future. You just need a small flathead screwdriver and some patience. http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/sw126687/LGT/maplightmod2.jpg http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/sw126687/LGT/maplightmod3.jpg http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/sw126687/LGT/maplightmod4.jpg http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/sw126687/LGT/maplightmod5.jpg