08SpecB_DE

American and German cars

I recently hit 100k and am now sitting at 100,300. It's been a great car for the last 40k, I bought it with 60k in 2012.

I've seen it a few times myself The t-stat housings are also prone to cracking. GM has had water pump issues dating back to the late 90s in the 3.1,3.4 and 3.8 engines. They also had major issues with manifold gaskets on those motors too. I could go on and on and on I'd have to be paid really well before I'd consider driving an "American" car.

That's sad.

Mine just passed 98k the other day. I've put the last 38k on it in since June 2012.

Not to mention how you drive the car. If you are a speed demon, especially around turns then I believe the 30k.

Rubber bushings going bad....been happening since the beginning of time. Be thankful if that's your complaint. I've seen just about everything go wrong on new cars that had under 30k. I'm talking transmissions, engines, water pumps, power steering pumps, ac compressors, etc. Where you live could play a part too. Every car on the road with this same design will need them at some point in its life.

I sound way out of place but I'd probably get a Tacoma. I bought a house about 18 months ago and could really use a bed. Subaru and Toyota are already in bed together so why not make a truck? If built well, I would buy one.

Chevy had issues dating back to 2002 due to a major design change that was flawed. I've never personally see an ignition tumbler go bad because of keys but that's not to say it can't happen and that it would be okay to have 40 keys on the ring.

Properly lubricating everything when doing the brakes should prevent any noises or issues. Guide pins usually get rusty due to torn boots that allow water in. Of course things happen over time like a rattling clip or squeaks due to brake dust but a simple inspection of the brakes is all you really need to do.

First day of below 20 degrees since I replaced the gaskets and she runs smooth!

I used a pick tool as well. The 2 on the driver side were a pita. I'm curious to know how folks pulled the entire manifold without disconnecting the fuel line. I could only lift the driver side up about an inch. I guess I could have been missing something but with some patience and careful maneuvering I got the gaskets to line up with the manifold and pushed down on it so they would seat.

I've been having this issue for the past few weeks now and never threw a cel until last weekend! I ordered new gaskets from the dealer but forgot to mention the part # to them. Hopefully they are the revised gaskets. I'm going to git'r'done sometime this weekend. Thanks for the nice write-up!

You can on a car that has the bearing pressed into the knuckle not on a car that has a bolted hub assembly. That looks like a bearing for a 2wd p/u that uses greasable bearings.

A member told me to avoid the silicone style because they can collapse. So, risk it with a silicone + do not have to remove manifold or get a hard pipe + remove the manifold?

sub'd

The Envigor is a directional tire. Had them on my old car and loved em! I only put about 10k on them before it got totaled but they were the best Yokohama tire I've ever had. It usually states whether the tire is directional or not somewhere in the description. If not, looking at the tread pattern is a good indication.

Mine was making a bearing noise when I was driving last night, but its gone now. Im hoping its not the diff. or something because the noise did not increase when i swayed in one direction or the other.

And that my friend, is the reason you are replacing that bearing.

Than what does a winter tire mean? I've always been under the impression winter and snow tires were the same. So, 2 feet of snow is not bad weather? It surely doesn't happen often, but to say we do not see bad weather is false. I do understand the advantages of winter tires, but in this area I think its overkill. I totally understand you needing 2 sets of tires given your location.

I plowed through 2 feet of snow a couple years ago in a front wheel drive vehicle with a set of Yokohama all-season Envigor tires. Now that I own an awd vehicle, I see an even lesser need of 2 sets of tires. A good set of all-season tires that are properly taken care of, will take care of you in a time of need. I have owned 4 sets of Yokohama tires and will buy some for the legacy when the time comes.

If its only $70, go with the oem. There is no guarantee it will last longer than an aftermarket part, but your odds are better. Many aftermarket parts use inferior metals and components.

Its a hub assembly and if they are using an oem subaru part, I could see that being the price. You could probably find one thats aftermarket for cheaper. With your car only being a couple years old, I do not see you having any serious problems with rusted parts. Torquing the axle nut is the most critical part of the job. Over torquing will cause the bearing to prematurely wear. After you get the hub out, clean the area free of any debris and apply a small film of anti-seize to the inside of the knuckle. This will help if you have to take it back out in the future.

I was thinking the same thing lol. Not to offend anyone, but I do not understand this. IMHO, this is a good definition of rice. Of course, it's your vehicle, do whatever you want, but I do not even see Honda owners doing something this silly.

08SpecB_DE Wilmington/Newark, Delaware 2008 Spec B diamond gray metallic