bubbagump

Looking to possibly replace the grimmspeed TMIC on my 2008 Spec B to a FMIC.

 

Let me know what you got!

 

Is it bad forum etiquette to start lining up for the GS?

I think it will mess the dynamics as you're saying. I'd replace both since the LCAs are coming off anyway, why do it twice? Both bushings will be of the same age and wear level too. Just my 2c.

 

Thanks for reply. Realized I was likely having a brain fart. I was talking about the rear suspension bushings as in the rear of my car. Didn't occur to me at the time there are probably no year of STI that has the trailing arm type setup like the LGT's, so there would be no such thing as STI equivalents.

SOLD to bubbagump

 

Thank you so much! This is going to look sweet. I can't believe I waded into the CF bling pool. I guess I'll have to stop giving side eye to the stock 350Z with a CF hood I see running around town.

I know I almost brought myself to shoot it RBP but honestly I've always lusted after a carbon RBP version. Looks like one is available so I'm just going to scoop it. It totally breaks my rule of "don't put anything on the track car that won't make you go faster, stop quicker, or turn harder" but I'm gonna play the bling card just once

 

Same here, never thought I'd lust so hard after some CF bling but Madrig should have mine ready soon! It's "blue carbon", I am hoping it matches my Atlantic Blue Pearl good enough.

Thanks for bringing this thread back up to the top! What an, um, interesting read! Thank you OP, I am humored in a really weird way by all of this. In the end though, I am firmly in the "you picked the wrong car" camp. Hope you find what you're looking for eventually, sliding around is one of my favorite activities too. Just have to wait until some snow is on the ground and that car of yours will be the right amount of fun.

 

Bravo too if this is a troll thread, that electronic pedal comment was pretty good. I've got me one of those too!

I run STI LCA bushings. Firmer than stock, not as firm/noisy as WL.

 

Do you think it would be ok to run around with STI front bushings and my shot stock rear bushings or would it mess up the dynamics real bad to have the front and rear so different?

 

Eventually I want to replace like everything - front and rear subframe bushings, diff/trans bushings, rear suspension components with nice shiny aluminum things but for this summer I am trying to keep my OCD under control so I can actually enjoy the damn thing before it becomes winter again.

Yes, vf52 is what you want.

 

Call Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com and see what he can give you for a price, Tell Mike I sent you.

 

Or email my Tuner at tuningalliance@gmail.com he's named Mike too, He's the one you'll want to have tune your car, tell him your plans, may be he can get everything you need in a package deal. Also tell him I sent you.

 

He really is that one of the two best Tuners for these cars.

 

BTW, these cars came with a vf40. You will need to trim the opening in the trubo heat shield for the vf52, its easy with tin snips.

 

Max Capacity,

 

You say you're running stock pump and injectors with vf52 @ 21psi? That's awesome, I didn't realize it was possible to increase pressure so much with stock injectors. I was considering vf52 but decided not to because I was worried about costs getting carried away with fuel pump and injectors, and all the things I would break and have to replace along the way. I've also had my eyes on that GS intercooler.

 

Have you ever tried and been happy with an E-tune from either of the two tuners you mentioned above? I am interested in if e-tunes are generally almost-as-good as a dyno tunes. Next summer or so once I get things really buttoned up the way I want them to be I think I'll probably get an actual dyno tune but I have been considering an e-tune to get me by. There are no tuners right that I've been able to find right around me.

 

Thanks

I have a pair of brand new OEM outer tie rod ends, and a pair of freshy painted black calipers on hand. They came off my California car, and were removed in favor of Brembos.

send me a PM if your are interested.

 

Calipers : I already have some remans coming in from Rock Auto. Can let BoozeRS have them if he's interested. Thanks though!

Tie rods : Already have MOOG inner and outers on hand, thanks though!

 

Guess I should post on here before buying. Will take note. I'll have a bunch more stuff when I get to the rear end of the car I am assuming.

Has anyone used these knuckles? I am in the market for at least one knuckle but I'm drawn between junkyard knuckle and these. The price is sort of too good to be true, but it is a simple part, but it is also a very important one. Having hard time.

Got my car back on jack stands tonight. After joyriding my new turbo/downpipe stage 2 thing for a couple weeks and 1k miles I noticed how aged everything really is. LCA bushings shot, one of the tie rods had a little play.

 

Then I remembered I have Bilsteins from some JDM Legacy in my shed, along with some aluminum control arms (also with shot bushings it turns out).

 

Then I broke some stuff, so now it looks like basically everything will be replaced. Knuckle(s?), wheel bearing(s?), tie rods, control arms, control arm bushings, ball joints, caliper(s?), ummm I'm sure I'm missing something. It kinda sucks you can't buy just the caliper bracket for a decent price.

 

So, question...OEM or aftermarket bushings? Wouldn't want to increase noise much, if there is something that has some handling gain without giving up much comfort. Need to do some reading, feel free to leave any input though.

I had a similar issue years back and after some forum digging concluded the first thing I should do is replace the knock sensor. It is easy to get to and not very expensive. In my case it cleared the issue right up. For what it's worth, my valve train is pretty darn "clicky" too. Planning on having clearances measured/adjusted if needed soon.

You need the brackets I included in my sale, won't be able to mount the calipers without them. Idk where you get them either.

 

Part number on the brackets by any chance? I see a few different WRX bracket options at the link below. Wondering which one they might be. They all have different lengths listed. Maybe we could work backwards from there? I am interested in doing this upgrade down the road, maybe next summer.

 

https://www.wilwood.com/Hardware/Bracket

you could always email cobb and ask them?

or you could hire a tuner to get a matched tune?

 

I was able to find them thankfully, should have updated this thread. I was hesitant to reach out to COBB just because they seem to be pushing people pretty hard to the v400 tunes because of the "unnecessary" DTC suppression in the v300 tunes.

 

I haven't been able to find a good local tuner just yet, although my search has only started. What do you mean a matched tune? Is the OTS Stg 2 tune from COBB considered matched if I use their down-pipe and have everything else stock?

Does anyone have or have access to the CPBB AP v300 Stg 2 91 and 93 octane maps? I don't see anyway to download past versions from them unless you downloaded them at the time v300 was the newest. Unfortunately I only have the Stg 1 v300's.

 

Thanks!

It took a lot of time and a lot of money to get it all that clean... I will be drenching it in fluid film every 6 months... That's for sure!

 

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I can imagine so! I hope to be able to follow your example in the next couple years, unless I impulse buy another one from out west to give me a better starting point. She's been with me over a decade now though, so she kind deserves it. Putting on just my shiny exhaust components is making it more painful the rest of mine looks the way it looks.

I like that they don't rust... I don't care about the weight... If I did I would have found some aluminum rear trailing arms... Those cast ones weigh a TON!

 

and yes very shiny... Almost all new components or powder coated. Back is just as nice...

 

Car has 250 miles on it right now... LOL

body ain't perfect but drivetrain is mint now.

 

 

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You are my hero with that shiny underside of yours.

 

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Those that went with new aluminum LCAs from Rock Auto, what else is required when changing to them?

 

I saw mention of p/n 202216FA000:

 

 

I googled to see where that would go and came up empty. Anyone have a little more info?

 

Aluminum control arms from Rock Auto?! I had no idea! Awesome, I'm glad I came across your post.

I'll take some this weekend and attach to 1st post. This is a "for sale" thread per-se but I might make one soon. I got some good advice between this topic and the one I posted in the tri-state forum too.

 

I see that! It's a nice car, even a bit crunched up. Seems like there are other people in line, I'll take my ticket for now but I'm interested to see where this goes. Six speed swap has been a dream of mine for well over a decade now. I feel it coming sooooometime. Or I'll find a mint Spec B

Geezus that manifold looks brand new, I want one of those.

 

Brembo calipers are good and tight. I love extra brakes, both the bling extra and the stopping extra. Can't stop looking.

 

Cleaned up my old Wilwood superlites today too, which wasn't as bad as I thought and they appear to be in solid shape.

 

Yep, something like 22 miles on the manifolds! Bought the manifolds, center pipe thing, and up-pipe for something less than 300$. Came off 2014 STI. Had to get the heatshields separate.

 

Mmmmm. Brembo's. That is awesome!

 

Edit : Some more shiny heatshield porn

Found it! I should have spent a few more minutes looking before I posted.

Does anyone happen to know where I can find the settings to make the forums light again? I've tried clearing all my cookies/site cache etc. No other websites are affected, don't think it's a browser setting.

Do you have any pics?

 

Is your DP one of the newer Cobb GESI catted ones? How long did ordering/shipping take, assuming purchased new? Contemplating some stupid decisions based on market rate for my catted dp and I know they’re mostly listed as backorder rn.

 

If you do end up doing downpipe and don't already have a heatshield that will fit, I found this gem of a post below today (see link). I heard of a lot of people do it but not many pics to show where to cut.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=711156&postcount=2

Well, your engine runs under temp every time you start up. It's not the best for it, but I'm sure it won't hurt to take it out for a few minutes. If it can't get all the way to normal temp = your radiator is fine?

 

Edit : Do thermostats like sort of crap out? Like they will open, just not all the way? If it is absolutely stuck shut I would think your car would overheat just about instantly.

Trimmed heatshield for new downpipe. Wire brushed it while I was at it. Some high temp enamel perhaps?