psucaptainkickass

Hey Fairfax! My aunt and uncles family have lived in Fairfax since at least 69, cool. Had to tell you that, Im from Hampton. Are you thinking about getting a new Legacy? Man I cant say enough good about mine.

Man , since 69! They probably have seen the place change so much over time!

I had a 2005 LGT and put 165k on it. Sold it last October. Definitely a fun car , but Subaru lost me with the way the styling and lack of GT model in the current lineup. Plus , rattles.

I spoke with GrimmSpeed, who stated it is OBDII compliant. The cat is sourced to meet the requirements. Others have run the GrimmSpeed cat on the sniffer and passed with flying colors. Cores from GESi carry EPA stamp and run $400 if bought individually.

 

The CNT cat is around 200 cells, whereas the GrimmSpeed is 300 cell. I will boldy make the claim the CNT will likely not pass metered emissions.

 

I alluded that the CNT simply doesn't cut down enough on smell for me and as such I would like a higher quality unit that also produces legal levels of emissions.

Cool. I get that a higher cell cat will reduce the smell for sure.

I wouldn't be surprised though if the CNT did indeed pass emissions. If I remember correctly, MD is a idle sniffer test state. Just make sure the car is warmed up to operating temperatures, and it should pass just fine at idle.

What does OBDII compliant mean anyways? Does that mean you won't pull a CEL without tuning?

Up soon - CNT catted downpipe. Reason for swap: GrimmSpeed catted downpipe with a better-for-environment/OBDII compliant catalytic converter.

 

I should get the new pipe within a week and be able to sell after that. Pics will be available once I pull it.

What does being an OBDII compliant cat mean? Why does it even matter?

I have a feeling that there is some kool-aid being drank here claiming that one catted DP is "better for the environment" than another DP. I'll give you that there are differences in the quality of cats...that's always going to be the case when they come from different manufacturers. But what metric is being used to determine "better for the environment".

Anyways you look at it, that GrimmSpeed DP is modifying the emissions system and removing one cat in the downpipe from a system that was designed to have two cats in the DP.

The claim that it is 49-state legal is dubious...no where on the Grimmspeed website does it state that. The website does state:

"GrimmSpeed aftermarket downpipes modify OEM emissions control devices and are intended only for off-road racing applications."

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying don't go with a catted downpipe...but if you're replacing a perfectly good catted DP with another catted DP for the reasons stated, I feel that's a lot of work for zero gain. Unless I have missed something entirely.

Brand new, sealed Xbox ONE Day One for sale:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-xbox-one-day-one-cost-218224.html

Selling it not for profit.

Pics of sealed device incoming this evening

ipad air for sale:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-nova-ipad-air-16-gb-brand-new-217853.html

Great Thread. I am at 102K and started looking into buying parts. I fully intended to do this myself but for giggles I got a quote from the local dealer. They quoted parts at 1005.14 (belt, idlers, tentioner, water pump, thermostat), labor at $884 plus a coolant flush at $179.95. A grand total of $2069.09. My jaw dropped when I saw that total. Could this really be correct or did the service lady screw up? My transmission rebuild cost less than this! (done at a Subaru shop not the dealer of course)

 

Also, is there a place where I can rent a harmonic balance removal tool? Are these things a Subaru specific or are they pretty generic? What did everyone else use?

I notice you are in Bmore...is it convienent at all to get to Gaithersburg? I have no vested interest in DPS Tuning, other than getting great service there for my clutch job and timing belt job, at a great price.

To do the belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and gaskets my TOTAL was right around $960. That is HALF what your dealer is asking for.

Not sure if you need a coolant flush? Since I had recently completed my 90k service, I believe DPS just dumped my coolant and reused it since it was good.

Anyways, if going to Gaithersburg is good for you, I suggest giving them a ring.

So I am dropping this off to be done tonight...

In addition to the belt, these items are recommended to be replaced too:

Water Pump

Thermostat

Timing Belt Tensioner

The 4 Idler Pullies (If they look bad)

My question is...

The Water Pump I know of, I will replace that. And the Timing Belt Tensioner, I will replace that too. What about the T-Stat...is that necessary, or is it of such marginal cost, that it just makes sense to replace it anyways?

The pullies i'm at the mercy of the shop..."if they look bad"

Utica NY?

Sorry, Utica Michigan

I was up in the Utica, Michigan area this past weekend on M-59

Ran into a RBP LGT. Debadged (had some badge on the back...couldn't tell what tho, definitely wasn't stock), rims, RBS grill in the front.

I was the SWP, w/ Hids, Yellow Fogs, Rims, Tint, Debadged.

Alright, I am taking the metaphor too far...

I just the smaller version of the "pix". The one that outlines all the part numbers. Any help?

I was thinking of doing this, but I am worried the CEL would trigger. I do not want to risk them swapping out the ECU without my knowledge.

 

I wonder how long before the CEL trips for the catless DP?

I believe...that the CEL won't trip for awhile. When you flash, you are reseting all the sensors. The car needs to be driven for awhile for the sensors to gather enough data to accurately report something. I was concerned about this as well.

If you have a CEL thrown that is legitimate and something that is persistant, clearing with the AP will only remove for a period of time before it comes back again (indicating a persistant problem). But the point is, the CEL is initially removed...but then returns. It doesn't return immediately, because the sensors need enough input to register a fault.

Yeah I just unmarried it in the dealer lot, like msb suggested. I did that on the off chance that they had ECUs in stock and didn't call me before the swap out. My fan circuit is fine and the fan isn't constantly on, so this is a precaution more than anything.

VtspecB...you would need to unmarry the AP from the ECU. Reason being, the AP can only be hooked up to one ECU at a time. Unmarrying it isn't to get the car past the dealer, its to make sure that you can still use your AP if the dealer changes out the ECU.

Anyways...its at the dealer now...and they are going to look into my squeaky clutch pedal as well...finally... (I rarely go to the dealer )

Yeah I am just going to take it in. AP in my backpack just in case

..if they have to swap out the ecu, I'll tell them I will bring it back (they probably won't have ecus in stock anyways)

Wait...so replacing the relay is a precaution?

My car is in the VIN range, but I don't have the fan problem whatsoever. Flashed to Stg. 2...which from what I read isn't a problem if the fan isn't running.

So what they'll do is replace the relay, so that it won't short the ECM circuit in the future? It hasn't for a year and a half...likely that it will short it now?