amidroc

It may be worth checking your clutch fluid and see if it's dirty. I live in sunny california and had issues with my clutch getting into gear. I found that the fluid was dirty and there was a defect in the slave cylinder hose.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6054858&postcount=2633

Replaced my PCV valve and hose. It really helps to have the clic-r clamp tool. It was a pain to work in a such a confined space though.

Astro 9406F Hose Clamp Clic-R Collar Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MA0KBXE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VC76N714515AT0RRHJ3P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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haven't posted on here in a while. I haven't done much to the LGT over the years. I am finally getting around to installing the KONI inserts after a mishap with the stock suspension caused me to bend a rims. I had a heck of a time searching for a replacement.

In addition to the koni install, I will swap the lower control arm because the rear pancake bushing is ripped.

I had plans to pick up the parts today but when I was out getting coffee the clutch got stuck to the floor! I have a replacement on the way from the same parts counter.

Any tips on bleeding the clutch slave cylinder alone? Last time I remember bleeding it was when I did the clutch damper delete with GTEASER back in 2015...

We got our 2.5i back yesterday. Transmission feels a lot smoother and no longer noisy.

The SW showed us the cost for the repair and it was just shy of 7K. Plus the $800 for the rental.

They made this a painless experience!

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I called the dealer yesterday and they are still waiting on the parts to arrive. Dealer mentioned they are handling another customer with a similar issue. Parts for their's were order at the end of June and the part just arrived recently. So it will be about a month.

We are in a Hyundai SantaFe Sport SUV rental for the duration. SWMBO is starting to appreciate sitting up higher.

This warranty work may end up costing me after all!!!

Did the dealer recreate it in manual mode too? I feel they'd tell me just use automatic mode.

 

I forgot how to use the manual mode. Will it shift if I forget? What gear were you in?

When i put it in manual mode i used the paddle shifters. I got up to 4th gear using the shift up paddle. When coming to a stop I did NOT use the shift down paddle. I let the CVT handle it. When I got to the stop line i hit the brakes more firmly an then it stalled and died.

Hope this helps.

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I'll try that. What speeds should I be going prior to stopping?

 

Do you get these issues without using manual mode? I've never found a reason to use manual mode. I wish the gear ratio for manual mode was more like a sports car but I feel I can just stomp on the gas with the CVT and get the same results.

I was in a residential area, so around those speeds when slowing down. I have experienced the issue less frequently while in automatic mode as well. I was just able to duplicate them in manual mode.

Also this is my wife's Legacy. I have a LGT....I do get the sports car feel!

Are TSBs covered for free under this or only free under B2B? What TSB and what was it for? My issue is so sporadic so I'm not sure how to approach the dealership.

I believe they used the TSB as leverage to get the CVT repaired. My subaru dealer called back and said it was specifically the torque converter and that the repair will be covered, no charge to me. Repair will be covered under the warranty not the TSB. They should have it done by Friday.

I was able to recreate the stalling in my car. I kinda wish I got video of it. But the way I was able to get it to stall was:

Let me just preface this by saying, this worked on my Legacy. It may or may not work for yours. Please be extremely careful trying this. I won't be responsible for damage to you, your legacy or any other property. Find a place where you can try this. Open parking lot or something. Just be careful.

Okay....

Put the car in drive and drive normally for a about 15-20 sec.

Then put it in manual mode.

Continue to drive normally using the paddle shifter.

Find a stop sign. Preferably one where there's not a lot of traffic.

Coming up to a stop sign don't use the paddle shifters to lower the gears.

As you apply the brake to slow down, when you get close to the stop sign press more firmly on the brake, almost like a short stop.

When I did this the car shuddered terribly, stalled then died. I had to put it in park then restart the car.

Good Luck.

I just dropped my 2.5i na to the dealer. I had to make them aware of the TSB. The service advisor was actually surprised by it. He wasn't aware.

Looks like they are going to take care of me and my Legacy.

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INCORRECT. Every car in the campaign (starts with 2010 model year) gets the warranty -- regardless of mileage -- until July 31, 2018.

 

After 7/31/2018, then it is 10 years or 100k miles, whichever is first.

Agreed!! see page 3 of this article:

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jensen/2017/07/07/facing-complaints-subaru-offers-extended-warranties-on-1-5-million-vehicles/3/#504ef9a66492

 

Continued from page 2

 

The new warranty extends it to 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.

 

Vehicles that are already older or have higher mileage have a one-year extension, ending July 31, 2018.

 

The automaker also says owners who paid for transmission repairs after the normal warranty expired are eligible to be reimbursed.

I would make sure Subaru Canada is included in this campaign.

I just called to have my 2010 2.5i CVT checked out. It has about 62K miles and the original CVT. When coming to an abrupt stop the Legacy stalls and dies. I suspect this has to do with the TSB 16-107-17. For mine the torque converter specifically TSB 16-90-13R

I attached a copy of the "locked" TSB from STIS.

151725-151724-16-107-17062217.pdf

I'm finally getting around to installing my Konis I bought last year. One of my front struts requires a lot of force to move the piston and the other one moves quite easily. I can also at points hear air bubbling and I hear the oil sloshing when I shake the strut of the one that moves easily. I made sure the adjustment on both are set to the softest. This has got to be a defective strut right? What amount of force should be required to move the piston?

That surely does not sound good. It should take significant force to move the piston by hand. Lucky for you Koni started selling the 8610-1453S again, but only for a short while. And unfortunately for you, they may not warranty it due to us using a WRX shock for our Legacy application. Worst case scenario is you have to buy a single 1453.

I also need get off my butt an install mine. should the front piston stay compressed after being pushed down?

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/amidroc/2010%20Legacy%20GT%20Premium/th_20160328_220250_zpsce9bwuqc.mp4

Ahh..my bad.

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for those that have the jdm bayson r lip, are you guys able to easily take off the front bumper if you need to? with the lip and bumper together?

When I initially installed mine the bumper was off and all the mounting points were on the bumper.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-P3tx5p3mQoN2RUeXpMazVEa0k/edit

Thanks for the input! I talked with Race Comp Engineering, they said the struts are under dampened for their springs... eibach does not even have a Legacy listed for their applications now. I am really just leaning towards the 20mm rear sway bar... maybe change out the end links... I would love to go Koni or bilstein route, but really need to stick with oe struts for now...

 

 

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Eibach still has the springs for $93

http://eibach.com/america/en/performance-suspension/closeout

scroll down to the bottom of that page. you have to call to place the order because if you purchase online you pay the full price.

Update. The TOB was the culprit and it was replaced. I am still not doing any launches (a failed one got me in this situation in the first place.) It was replaced with an OEM and I am happy with it. It holds my custom eTune just fine.

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just a day after the clutch is installed I am hearing and feeling a grinding noise going from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd. kinda from 3rd to 4th and hardly noticeable after that.

For me it only happens when the pedal is pressed all that way down. Which is currently how I and changing gears. My left leg muscle memory is still used to the heavy resistance from the old clutch. The new one it's very light.

I called the shop and tried to explain it the best I could over the phone. Best thing was to bring it back. One of the mechanics test drove it and was able to duplicate the anomaly quite easily. He diagnosed it even further that the grinding only happens around a certain RPM. We brought it back to the shop and had the owner take a listen. The two of us stood outside and had a listen...Couldn't hear a thing. The owner got in and he too was able to duplicate the issue. I still couldn't make out any grinding from outside the car.

He shut off the car, closed the hood and we went back inside. He scheduled me for a follow up appointment fro Jan 3, 2017 to have another look.

They suspect the TOB is the culprit but won't know till the get it on the lift.

Anyone else experience something like this shortly after a clutch replacement?

New clutch is waaaayyyyyyy easier now.

Parts installed

FJK1001 kit

12342AA090 flywheel

Motul Motylgear 75W-90 gear oil.

Have to relearn how to drive this clutch..Stalled it pulling away from FW MOTORSPORTS....

LOL

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As much as I would like to try out the Southbend. The current life expectancy for my clutch is very short. Driving on the freeway during rush hour today was downright scary. I felt like I had no control. I am afraid to do any heavy acceleration in any gear. What made it worse was my teenager was in the car with me.

I am taking the recommendation of my local independent subaru shop. I am going to stick with the OEM and replace the flywheel. The cost is also an issue. I can replace the OEM clutch, SMFW and TOB for about the same price as the Southbend clutch i was interested in. This is my DD. I need the clutch as effortless as possible. I am hopeful the clutch pedal will be as easy as my base model 2015 2.5i Legacy was.

Thanks all for your input.

That's the one I have bookmarked for when I inevitably get to this point myself.

 

As far as clutch weight, it looks like the slave cylinders are different- there's one that's used on the '07+ LGT/OBXT and the '08-current WRX, and a different one that's used on Foresters (turbo and N/A), '05 and '06 LGT/OBXT, the BRZ, '05+ N/A Legacy and Outback, and the '17 Impreza. I know there's a damper in the one on the GT (should restrict flow on pedal up, free-flow on pedal down), I wonder if that introduces enough of a restriction to make the pedal feel heavier? Other than the '11 WRX I test drove briefly, I haven't driven any other MT Subarus, so I don't really have any way to verify those suspicions.

I was told that the fingers get hardend over time and that's what causes the heavy clutch feel. As I mentioned before, the previous owner lived in San Francisco. So if they happened to ride the clutch or use it to hold it in place while on a hill could have caused the hardening and premature failure. :spin:

Who? FW Motorsports?

exactly.

Here's what I wanted to do:

replace clutch and flywheel

while the flywheel is off possibly replace the rear main seal

install the TSK3 on the transmission housing

I was told that the OEM clutch and flywheel should be fine since I didn't have any major performance mods. Just a Stage 1 tune.

the rear main seal probably didn't need to be replaced. But if they inspected it and it needed they would just charge for the part.

didnt recomment the TSK since the transmission case isn't damaged. they would install if i really wanted to. But they advise the clutch feel would be different and not OEM.

That was the jist of the conversation.

Since they work on Subaru's all day, I wouldn't have a reason not to take their advice. But I have you all and I may check with a different shop.

I just got off the phone with an independent Subaru shop here in NorCal and they recommend using the OEM clutch and flywheel. And didn't recommend the TSK3 kit.

Also I couldn't bring the parts to them. The would have to order it all.