MaStaMooN

Tossed some stuff.. sold the uppipe/downpipe for 800 (low but hassle free), sold the stock catback (120) and the jdm kit (200).

 

So all I have left is:

 

Injectors (DW740 sidefeeds bnib)

Fuelpump + Housing

JazzyMT kit

Tierod ends

shroud

stock springs

stock intercooler

vf40

 

So more than doubled my giveaway price. Not bad for a bunch of garbage nobody would want. If I can sell these injectors, the rest will probably just go in the trash.

no one is giving you $500 for that list. jmp will give you a few dollars for the turbo. the ap is bricked and no longer supported. the jdm dd & harness is, depending on condition, worth shipping. the walbro will sell. the dp will pay for the computer part...post up on craigslist or fb marketplace that trade...you'll have the part by nightfall.

 

the rest is garbage

 

So I should be asking more then??? Is that what you are saying cuz your post kinda contradicts itself.

 

You're saying the downpipe is worth one of those GPUs that currently sell for between 600 and 1600.. The jdm kit is worth selling, the walbro will sell, im sure the injectors will sell.. But nobody will buy it for 500? Which is it?

 

Look, I'm sure its all worth or not worth something.. I am paying for the convivence of somebody showing up with a truck and hauling it all away for me.

 

Maybe I will call the local junk yard tomorrow about the downpipe. Thanks for the advice.

 

 

Thanks for the replies

Hey Ya'll...

 

So my car was wrecked over a year ago and I had a bunch of stock parts and random other parts that I never installed or I removed from the car after the wreck.

 

I dont want to deal with ebay or shipping/selling them one off at a time. But I need to get them out of my garage(s). Take a look at the screenshot, this is the list of stuff I need to get rid of. Im hoping somebody with more time/energy would take this stuff off my hands.

 

Here is an album of all the stuff. Better or specific pics can be taken upon request.

 

I believe between the walbro, injectors, jdm kit and all these things, there is some value here. I am asking 500 bucks for EVERYTHING. No shipping or deliveries. I am located in Brick NJ, about a mile (if that) from exit 91 on the parkway. Stock exhaust is complete and in one piece but in a different garage, but still in brick, only another mile or 2 down the road. I think it has less than 30k miles on it.

 

Would be willing to trade for a current generation GPU (nvidia 30 series or amd 6700/6800/6900 series).

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zqvu44JXKJBdddMZA

(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻

Ok fixed! LOL

 

[ATTACH]229136[/ATTACH]

 

Further, we've got some fitment issues that I need to work out with CTSV.

 

So far the pad DOES sit above the rotor a bit =\

 

[ATTACH]229137[/ATTACH]

 

 

Yeah that doesn't look good at all. Hopefully it can be worked out because this looks like an awesome upgrade.. probably drive down the cost of brembo swaps also!

[ATTACH]229012[/ATTACH]

 

The caliper is in a similar position. As the STI brembo when mounted. So far braking feels pretty balanced with the stock rears. I may decide to put a STI brembo rear or Subaru 2 pot (JDM or USDM). we will see

 

Is it me or does it look like the pad is only contacting the outer half of the rotor? Is this what STI brembos also look like on our cars?

What is are the correct percentages of the TPS, when the car is off? I noticed mine wasn't near 0% nor near 100% last time I had Torque running and checking on things. My last car the percentages were like 5% and 95% with anything above or below that meaning a fault. I think mine showed like 15% and 75% or something possibly.

sunofabitch

MCM is the only thing on YouTube I consistently watch and check for new episodes.

Thanks to the OP for enlightening me to MCM... only show I actually watch consistently on youtube.

Spotted a DGM(i think) Spec.B on the GSP this morning, around the Brick area around 7:45am or so. Looked stock.

Decided to do a PS fluid change the 'easy' way by pulling out the old stuff, replacing with the new stuff and driving/running hte car for a bit. This is what I was pulling out vs what I was going to put in. Nasty. I did about half a quart on saturday, probably do the other half this next weekend. See what the fluid looks like in a week or 2. This was at 104k miles.

 

spotted panicrev (http://legacygt.com/forums/member.php?u=48833) this morning on Cedarbridge Ave in Brick. Has an unmistakeable license plate.. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f104/panicrev613/DSC00257.jpg

Welp, I got it back in. Ate some dinner then headed back out there... clipped the big clamp and pushed it back... saw why I couldnt get it back in. The part that the axle goes in was all cockeyed so no wonder I couldnt pop it back in. I felt the clip at the end of the axle was still in there, so I managed to monkey around with it enough to get it seated fully and then had to wrestle the strut back into place. Going to try and find one of those clamps and hopefully get it in there without taking anything else apart!

 

All done!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/13/9a9e6ahu.jpg**** my Life!

 

Driverside front went in without a hitch. Passenger side was much more of a nightmare... Removal and disassembly and reassembly of the strut went fine. Went to go put it back in and the strut seems almost too long, specially compared to the driver side. So I took it back out and double checked my work. All was fine, put it back together and tried to install again. Finally figured out how to wrestle it into place. Thought all was well, put the wheel back on, but as I was tightening the lugs I realized my wheel was spinning freely.... :::SCRATCH HEAD::: So I pull the wheel off to double check everything and it turns out the axle fell out of the hub. Ive spent about an hour now trying to wrestle it into place, took the strut back out.... still cant get it to go back in. Turning the rotor a bit trying to match up those splines is not working well.

 

WHY ME! Was going too easy. Does anybody have any idea how to fix this without taking the whole hub apart or popping the hub off the lower ball joint? FML FML FML.

 

Im guessing I will need to take the boot off at the very least. Does a place like AutoZone carry the weird clamps they use to hold the boots on?

Spotted blue 05-09 Legacy on 4/5/2014 driving past my house as I was in the driveway doing the rear shocks/springs on my Silver 05 LGT. Brick, NJ. Car slowed for a second maybe as he went by, but could be wrong about that.

I plan on doing my fronts this weekend. I will be using the pipe cutter mentioned a few posts down from the OP, pushing it up against the stock cap, but will still be measuring to be sure.

 

I also plan on painting them Koni Yellow to match the inserts and rear shocks. Apparently PlastiKote School Bus Yellow (T-29) is a pretty close match

I dunno if it's any better than the harbor freight unit, but the Kobalt electric impact I picked up from Lowes made quick work of my axle nuts.

 

...then again....Texas car FTMFW

 

Looks much nicer than the HF one I got.. specs are better also 350 vs 230ft/lb, but is almost 5x the price.

I snapped one of my adapters trying to get my 3/8" drive hex socket to work on my 1/2" drive torque wrench. Just went to the auto parts store and bought the one size I needed in 1/2" drive for a few bucks.

 

Yeah thats what Ill end up doing. Ive ended up with quite a few new tools for this install...

 

1. Harbor Freight Electric Impact (good for nothing so far).

2. Harbor Freight Impact Sockets

3. Propane Torch (good for nothing so far).

4. Harbor Freight PassThrough socket set (broken already but still works).

5. Pipe Cutter from Lowes (should be a good one).

6. Harbor Freight 3lb mini sledge hammer.

 

Really stinks that the Impact gun will end up being a wheel lug remover for the most part, but it was on sale for $35 and had a 20% off coupon so I guess it was worth it.

This sounds like a problem for future mastamoon, not present mastamoon.

 

#yoloswagwtfidontknowwhatimdoingwiththenumbersign

 

truth!

I never had an issue torquing that bolt to spec--and you only do it once with locktite, so not too big a deal.

 

I dont have an allen key socket that would fit my torque wrench. But its probably cheaper/easier to buy a single one of those for this than to buy a set of bolts.

 

Down the line I would think it would be easier to remove a rusted/stuck bolt vs an allen, but I guess I probably dont need to be concerned with that.

Has anybody found a replacement bolt for the front insert bottom bolt allen key thing? Id rather have a normal bolt on there for torquing and such.. the size that I have seen on forums doesn't seem easy to come by.M12 x 1.5 x 25mm Grade 8

M12 x 1.5 x 25mm Grade 8

So I took the car to a friend's shop to get the rear lower bolt loose. First he tried a snap-on 18v impact on it. Nothing. Moved up to a 1000 ft/lb air impact gun and after about 10 minutes per side working on the nut, they were free.

 

Rest of the rear install was a snap. Using a spring compressor is definitely the slowest part of the process. Should have just bought new rear hardware.

 

Going to run the stock front setup with the Koni/Eibach in the rear for a week since I ran out of daylight and energy today.

 

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Did you try using a floor jack with the breaker bar? Not a preferred method but it can be effective.

 

Yeah tried that on the nut side, ended up just lifting the car.

 

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presoak all components in PBlaster.

 

I was using that wd40 with "blue Torch technology" or some shit like that. 102k North East miles.. I dont think penetrating fluid is gonna make a difference honestly.

 

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