kaitanium

Looking to do a big brake upgrade in the front at some point in my car's lifetime and was wondering if there are any considerations I should be aware of when choosing wheels? How will I know if a wheel will clear a particular caliper? Or is it a guessing game?

Its not final yet but im looking to get a set of SSR GTX01 on 225/50/r18 7.5in wide, et48 (mostly stock-ish specs here). Not sure if a conservative wheel like this would clear something like a sti brembo kit upfront. Or do I need more offset or wider or more concave wheel?

subierecycler looks like an incredible resource! no response from them yet...

been trying to read about why poly bushings arent recommended. Cant find a definitive answer. the whiteline sway bars i have on have those bushings and i find them just fine

Has anyone had experience with SPC Performance? Looking at their rear lower control arm (67660 EZ Cam) as im lowering my outback and wanted more adjustability when getting the car aligned. Local shop recommended that to me as a part that should fit but im not 100%. Or a more expensive Cusco 6ai474ln. Both of these arent listed as fitting a legacy or outback.

In any case, what lower control arms that dont use a poly bushing are you guys running? Whiteline KTA124 is a poly one but is also an option.

Looking to get my 09 outback lowered and need the standard items:

both right and left rear upper control arms and bumpstops

Let me know what condition they are in, how many miles on them and your location (avoiding rust belt if possible). Thanks!

bonus items are whiteline KTA124 and KCA399

You're right, Outback tires are slightly taller than Legacy tires. But I kept the Outback bump stops in the rear, so the tire compresses as high in the wheel well as a normal Outback would, matching the stock tire height. (Pictured in the shot fully loaded up.)

 

Correct, in the photo you referenced, the fenders were still uncut.

 

I cannot confirm if the JDM LGT is the same height as the USDM LGT stock height. They appear to be pretty close in height, but the spring rates and shock valving are firmer on the JDM parts.

Thanks for the info!

Wont that give the car a rough ride and hit the stops earlier if they are the larger ob stops? even with LGT control arms?

So what im reading in this long long thread looks like my original plans of going LGT struts/springs (wagon springs, heard those were stiffer or might do kings in the rear) and 225/50r18 should work out perfectly fine without rub or the need to roll or trim or use spacers.

Ideally i would love to reuse my OB springs but not sure what the ride is like or if the spring needs to be compressed too much to fit into the LGT strut/perch. My OB struts have 80k on them and i rather just change them out but the springs seems like a waste just to toss. I do usually have a car full of family and gear. User dan04103 seemed to have done the kings but i can no longer get a response from him anymore, seems like hes gone.

Does anyone know what the LGT control arm part number is? Want to verify that its 20250AE041.

Was dreaming of lowering the car when i bought it new 10 years ago. Now the inklings of it finally happening is making me excited!

With the stock wheel and tires' date=' they wouldn't allow it to leave the factory if there was ANY rubbing anywhere in the suspension travel.[/quote']

 

yes but thats if this was a legacy not outback with LGT struts. Or maybe I dont understand this statement. Arent outback tires larger than legacy?

 

Just to confirm, your first pic https://uniim1.shutterfly.com/ng/services/mediarender/THISLIFE/000061729827/media/43831234238/medium/1523936398/enhance, were fenders rolled/cut/trimmed to have no rub?

 

Is JDM legacy stock height any different from USDM?

 

i may ultimately have to stay conservative with a 18x7.5, et45 225/50 (i think toyota CHRs are running this and they look decent). Dont want to be cutting anything to keep some resale value. All my mods so far have been 100% reversible and Id like to keep it that way.

Tires arrived last week and was finally able to get them installed last Friday. Also, ruined my front lip coming off the flatbed. Looking to pick up some conveyor belt material now.

 

Firehawk Indy 500 235/40/18. Downsized Outback sized tires 245/45/18. So far I'm liking the feel of these tires much more than the Hankook Evo2 V12. I'm sure a lot of it comes from the sidewall height and a bit more tire stretch. Feels much more responsive, more sure footed when cornering and all around much more nimble. I definitely notice the difference in RPM cruising speed because of the difference in final gearing between the Legacy and Outback. It's punchier now and gone is the highway quiet cruising "luxury" refinement it had before. Almost as fun as my old E30 with the 4:10LSD rear. Also, didn't have much of it before, but it seems to be in the RPM droning spot, but then again I've been driving my wife's 2017 Outback and a V6 truck the past two weeks. So far I like and I'm happy.

 

TL;DR

What I like:

Tire responsiveness and nimbleness.

Thought that visually I'd prefer the meatier 245/45 tire but I think it looks nicer now.

More tire clearance, should I go lower.

 

Possible downsides depending on your preferences:

Maintaining highway cruising speeds are more of an effort.

More RPM drone, dependent on wagons, exhaust, bushings, etc.

 

My current mods that might affect the above notes changes:

Group N TransMount & EngineMount

Shifter bushings set

"Hogzaust"

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No issues with the stock tires:

 

 

 

 

 

 

But I cut the fenders pretty high under the stock Outback flares when I put the Enkeis on so I don't have a reference for those wheels/tires on stock fenders.

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As for shocks, I got a set of stock JDM LGT Rev A Bilsteins from a JDM importer on ebay for $350 shipped. I've since changed the springs a couple times, but when it was on the original springs, it was very nice. Supposedly valved firmer than USDM Spec B Bilsteins, but not as firm as the aftermarket B8/B6's you can get on Tire Rack. I can confirm that they're stiffer than a USDM Spec B setup, just can't confirm compared to B8/B6.

 

This was that JDM LGT setup with the springs they came with, + 3/4" saggy butt spacer in the rear:

 

Stock Wheels:

 

Enkei TS-9, 18x8.5 +40, 245/45/18 Michelin PS A/S 3+:

Open question: what do people normally do with spare tires when they get new rims? Match the tire size exactly? Wondering if my spare is 225/55/17 if 225/50/18 on the running wheels will be ok. Seems to be same diameter.

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All my wheels are OEM, here's the wagon with the Spec B wheels with snowtires and its 17's.

 

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WORK XT-7 18x8.5 +46mm MGS w/ Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 245/45-18 on an '05 OBXT lowered 1.5" on Megan Racing Outback Specific Coilovers. No rolling required. Probably won't fit stock setup due to larger front suspension diameter. My vBGarage.

 

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii26/ScoobySTi07/New%20gear/DSC_7460.jpg

Anyone out there modestly lowered their OB like Scooby is or know of anyone lowered like him? With no rub issues and no rolling or trimming?

Seeing if LGT height shocks/struts and 245 or 235 /45/18x8 et45 wheels would work on my OB without any issues? Im thinking these tires/rim combo would be almost like Scoobys 8.5in wheels with et46. Thinking about getting gramlights 57transcends

And even if it works, im usually rolling with a full car load of kids and gear. Might have to get stiffer shocks too so that I dont sag as much to induce rub

I think in the wheel and tire forum there is a sticky that may have the info you want.

 

My 09 Spec B has 225/45-18' I run those on my lowered 05 GT wagon from time to time with no issues.

forgot about that wheel/tire forum, ill search there

What width is your rim? No issues at full lock in the front or hard bumps?

Rethinking how I want to lower my outback now that I've asked a million people about rubbing issues. Since I just want a more modest wheel arch gap without any hassle and thinking it would be more cost efficient and hassle free (does that exist? Haha) if I just get LGT struts/shocks. Couple of questions:

1. what upgraded size rims/tires/offset do LGT wagon owners typically run without rolling or trimming? is what https://www.wheel-size.com/size/subaru/legacy/2009/ is showing accurate?

2. what LGT wagon struts (other than stock) are preferred if I wanted something with less roll, more control (already have whiteline sways on front and back of my car)?

Thanks!

Are you stock height? if so, 245/45/18 should be fine. You may rub on the inner rear fender liner depending on wheel / tire width.

 

If lowered all bets are off. I was rubbing with the stock wheels. 235/45/18 is a better choice if you want to be sure of 0 rub.

Planning on bc racing coilovers. If you look up Instagram user 6mt_obk thats how low I want to go. Just a nice wheel arch gap all around. He's running 245/40/18x9 et40 with no rub and uncut liners and not rolled. Instagrammer karas_obxt is running 245/40/18x8.5 et44 with only rub in front right because of a nose dive problem(?), Uncut unrolled. Both running bc racing coilovers. Kara's is a bit lower than I'd like.

Stock wheels on a lowered car at et48 definitely sounds like it could rub on the inner tire or maybe at full lock on the fronts

would like to bump this up to see what else people are running on their OBs.

Thinking about running 18x8.5 on 245/40. Not sure about what offset is good if im lowering on BC racing coilovers.

The head unit they want you to use does not come in any US cars, to my knowledge. All US cars have all of the head units looking like their example with a red X through it, not the green check mark version. You'd still have to buy a JDM HVAC setup (or this Russian one?) if you wanted to completely replaced a USDM setup, then maybe you could use this LHD faceplate.

been warned by David to not buy the russian versions (seen on ebay right now). Not sure of the technicalities.

I saw that somewhat recently too. It is doable technically but you better be a professional electronics board maker before even attempting to do such a thing

dont even have confidence in wiring up my new head unit so ill stay away from that haha

It’s a molded unit I don’t believe they are swappable and it’s not really a big deal it just swaps the buttons not the actual temperature as previously mentioned. Crutchfield usually has the answers you’re looking for my 05 doesn’t have wheel controls.

molded, got it. which is why this thing wont work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-DIN-Car-Radio-Stereo-Faceplate-for-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-2006-2009-/153173386771?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

When I had the same question for Svxdc regarding the aux jack in the center console working, he basically told me to just nix that idea and just get a universal aux jack to replace the OEM one and it'll plug right into an aftermarket head unit instead of trying to make the factory aux jack work.

I see. however this AX5000 is spec'ed as not having an "aux in." I wonder if I can still do it. I guess overall it doesnt matter as it has bluetooth

im guessing one of these "universal aux jacks" looks like this? https://www.amazon.com/APPS2Car-Auxiliary-Expedition-Freestyle-Navigator/dp/B00N9WKTUM

as long as the steering wheel buttons work and sub works, im all dandy for the most part