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kaitanium

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Posts posted by kaitanium

  1. Selling my 2009 Subaru Outback 2.5XT Limited with 5spd manual transmission. 96k original owner miles and looking for a new home to a person that will care for the car as much as I have cared for it. Asking $12,000 obo (or best offer)

    Most details as well as a google doc link with every detail you may want to know can be found here:
    https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/d/san-francisco-2009-subaru-outback-25-xt/7616240330.html

    I will definitely miss this car. Lots of memories. Still remember taking it off the lot and of course all the road trips I took in it through when I got married and now with kids. I need to sell because wife doesnt know how to drive stick (those long road trips are brutal not being able to switch off) and we need a larger car in general.

    Feel free to message me with questions.

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    https://i.ibb.co/FHPzD7q/outback-sale-055.jpgspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.pngspacer.png

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    • Like 5
  2. Not sure on the overhang issues you mention. For me this kit was more wanting to have a bigger pad to cover the unswept area that could be used to help stop. My brakeswap.com set up, bought used from a forum member on here, using my GT OEM rotor size, (11.3" if I remember?) gave me good wear since the pad had full footprint + some. I had mentioned my hopes that the caliper would cover more of the rotor face when I first installed it. Eric said it was a fair point, but this kit was designed to get someone into a good, non-floating caliper without breaking the bank, hence the OEM spec rotors. I ran the Napa Ultra Premiums with these as they were inexpensive and stood up to the street / track use my car was seeing at the time, especially for the money to replace them.

     

    yea and i think for what this kit was designed for (utilizing OEM rotors + non float caliper) it hits the nail on the spot. how many years/miles did you run the setup for?

     

    I do have pad overhang using wilwood pads. Maybe about 3mm. You can make it out in this pic. Pad is the gray thing sticking out with the small grooves marked by red arrows. yellow shows edge of rotor, blue pointing at rotor

    20220104-224938.jpg

     

     

    I guess most of my concern would be this where only 60% of rotor is used. Im NOT going to be tracking at all (car would be an embarrassment on the track). Wonder if prolonged street use over the years and heat in only this 60% and not the other 30-40% would cause issues. Overall Eric has told me no issues at all. And no one here has ever mentioned anything but liking the upgrade so...maybe all is cool! All in all i do not want any safety concerns.

    20220104-180822.jpg

  3. I suppose you could have them talk with Eric Wong at brakeswap.com as he was the one that originally spec'd and sold the kit. For the years that I ran it both on the street and at the track I had no issues running this set up.

     

    I’ve chatted with Eric myself too and obviously read through everyone’s thoughts here….seems ok and people like you have ran it w/o issues. I think I’m ok but Alas brembo itch is scratching again every time one person sows doubt

     

    I’m sure you’ve experienced the uneven pad wear due to the pads not covering the rotors but having overhang… what do you think of that?

  4. So i just did the wilwood brake swap on the front and LGT rears for my outback XT. The oversight was where i finished the night and let the car sit overnight and the brake fluid reservoir ran dry as there was a leak in a non-tightened brake hose

     

    So i must have bled and ran through 4 bottles of brake fluid by now and yet pedal is still spongy. Zero bubbles coming out of calipers.

     

    If the calipers arent bleeding any bubbles at all, would the pedal sponginess be a problem of air in the ABS or master cylinder or something else? Are my assumptions correct in thinking its probably not the master cylinder giving i ran so much liquid already through it? Probably the ABS and needing a Subaru Select Monitor (SSM) from what i read? Or something else?

  5. Resurrecting this thread. Just installed the wilwoods today and plan to bleed tomorrow. Got to ask, why can’t Wilwood just use the typical banjo fitting instead of some NPT to AN? Feels like my hose will just unscrew itself or leak.

     

    Anything else I may need to know for a safe installation?

  6. These are likely for the outback but im guessing the flanges and belts can work for other platforms.

     

    Bought these and dont need them anymore. Prices are shipped/paypaled.

     

    Hawk Street 5.0 HB432B.661 - $95 - upgraded my calipers and these dont fit anymore. brand new, never opened

    Gates Micro V K040332 and K050344 Serpentine belts - $30 - bought these and was stupid enough not to look at my own maintenance records that i had already changed them a few months prior...lol.

    Nameless Performance exhaust flanges - $20 - bought for a custom project but ended up finding the exhaust i wanted so no more custom project needed

     

    more pics: https://ibb.co/album/cDv1S5

    20210815_104809.thumb.jpg.0ffa2710213f28f9ccac0e6f12941452.jpg

    43032141_m78069578150_1(1).jpg.1885fada38271d5327c4a7f9a336b0d5.jpg

    20210901_085910.thumb.jpg.3a8b1083da15b33765e9ef71c6b5d037.jpg

  7. Ran this set up for a number of years before swapping in a StopTech Trophy kit F&R. Can’t help you much with numbers specifically but can say that I never noticed any serious bias issues. Generally ran Hawks street pads all around on the street and XP10 / XP8 F&R on track.

     

    Did yo know what the friction coefficient of those pads were?

     

    Im going to run wilwood BP10 in the front and stoptech streets in the rear. Mostly because wilwoods are cheap and easy to obtain, stoptechs seem rated well and cheap. im thinking this is a 0.45 up front and a 0.35 mu in the rear but unsure. Dont want to throw bias way off.

  8. still on the look out for this now. resuming the project. might go for a set of really used calipers or whatever is cheap so that i can use for a core exchange for new ones. Anyone have something thats not rusted shut?

     

    Been frustrating as everyone who ive contacted eventually goes dark or just isnt reliable with messaging. Thats 5 people now who initially said they have a car to part out but after the first message never get back to me. comon.

  9. <pic attached>

     

    I'm still procrastinating the subframe drop. Been dealing with engine and school stuff, but a quick measurement says 9.5" between the two mounting brackets. You might still have to add the length of the pieces in the blue rectangle to get the length of the full line though. Best I can do for now.

     

    Yea, no problem. I’ve been asking around and looks like lengths are give or take verified on this site that someone mentioned to me http://www.sunsongusa.com/Catalog

  10. oh trust me, moving from OEM floating caliper to a fixed 4 pot, its going to me more than just response and feel, you're bumping up in stopping power for sure and particularly maintaining that while your pushing it.

     

    so if upping stopping power in the front (since the rears arent changing), wont that affect brake bias is the question im getting to. again a n00b question thinking with n00b logic here :p Just want to understand this upgrade before i pull the trigger. Been wanting to do LGT brakes on my OBXT anyways. For daily driving, i dont need full brembos...although that would be some nice bling.

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