ToRealEyes

Right! Well, maybe it'll all be just a fluke, and a simple leak or clogged air filter. Then again, basing all this on one single log probably isn't the most error-free approach. Our car is super well maintained, and we bought it new back in 2012. Just has 41k on the clock at the moment! But yea, I'm not sure how to simply diagnose a clogged cat without an actual CEL for 'cat below efficiency threshold' or something to that effect. I can imagine dealer service just saying it's within spec. I think it can be assumed that our PZEV cats are higher density than standard, so I can already expect a little less power. Maybe I can pull some logs reading specific parameters for the sensors on the cat. If I'm also logging very occasional misfires (haven't checked in a long time), maybe I'll consider adding a fourth item to my list: 4. Pull and replace spark plugs (Part Number: 22401AA731 ; 22401AA730; NGK #SIFR6A11) This is fun! Appreciate all your helpful thoughts.

Ah yes that clears it up a bunch. So, a small exhaust leak anywhere after the headers is likely to mess with and decrease that negative pressure, thereby creating backpressure like a big exhaust would. When I get a chance to take a closer look at the car this weekend, three things: 1. Air filter and intake path for obstructions 2. Exhaust leaks at each mating joint/gasket. 3. Blocked up cat (look for physical damage like a crushed cat, I guess) We're looking at some 110*F degree weather next few days. Not sure if I'd rather have our heat or the cold winters outside California.

Thanks for posting up the properties! I'll edit my custom car profile with these when I get a chance to do another clean virtual dyno pull. I think that's the newer one you were alluding to. Lots of things for me to check. I also ordered a WIX Filter 49012. Love your projects! I thought I read somewhere that the N/A Subaru engine likes a little bit of exhaust back pressure, and to avoid doing large piped exhaust mods for example. Turbo's being the opposite. Is that right?

Good points! Yep, I created a 'custom' vehicle in Virtual Dyno, and added in all the data. Only values I wasn't sure of was frontal area, which I used 24.01 ft^2, and C_d, which I used 0.34. I agree, this car and power level doesn't need a 4th gear log. 3rd or even 2nd would provide enough data points. I'm worried about the car, since there are many instances where we are pushing it at 100%. I'm also hoping to find symptoms early through this datalogging, etc. Re: the vacuum, I noticed that as well. I've got an OEM Subaru (Denso?) paper panel filter in there. Put in at 32k miles, less than 10k miles ago, and I just cleaned* it a week ago. *Clean meaning thwacking it against my palm to dislodge stuff.

It's all right, I mean, they're not really issues, just Subaru nuances that I think are worth improving (and relatively easy to do so). Hate to clutter your thread, but I remember seeing your post with the virtual dyno. Thought I'd take a look at how our's compared, being the same and all. So! Here's a virtual dyno of our car. 100% stock, 91ACN gas. 4th gear to ~5200 rpm on a very slight incline. Also adjusted for that day's barometric pressure and 105* temps. "Look at that NA power!" -CovertRussian

I found ours on a whim, got mad at local Mazda dealer for trying to pull a quick one on me for a brand new 2013 CX-5 6MT. It has always driven horribly, but I knew it just needs some work. Being a Subaru, and me being a Subaru owner. One year was rear sway bar, another year was suspension, alignment, and tires. This year marks our beginning into tuning, and your threads are a huge help!

I love cars101.com! Ours is a 2012, manual, and PZEV.

Good read. So the gist of it is, our PZEV has more expensive versions of the same-ish hardware (cats, injectors, intake). When it comes to tuning, ECM will 'rush' to heat up the cat to optimal operating temperature. After that point, my guess is it's no different. So far, it still drives the exact same on what I am guessing is the non PZEV (EE5K801W) map vs the PZEV (EE5K801U). Maybe I should still try to get definitions made for my PZEV map. I'd be interested in seeing where [else] the differences lie.

Yup, to make both the cats on the car and the cats in CA's ARB happy. Mostly the latter. Creates more pollution, but of the less harmful type as quickly as possible. I kind of dislike the rich fuel smell on cold mornings. I'm getting help with tuning the 2.5i. Let's see what happens....

Any updates on tuning and findings? I don't quite understand most of this yet. Things such as IAM, many keep saying a low number could correlate to an issue. I did a ECU reset (pulled the battery and brought it in the house to float charge) a week/400 miles ago, and my IAM from two days ago is pegged at the lowest(?) possible while cruising: 0.0625. On 91ACN fuel. Ours is a PZEV running same exact stock rom version as yours.

I'm really impressed by that quality body work! Nice to have more Legacy/Outback peeps on board. I would swap out the springs first--they drop the car quite a lot. Have you considered the STI wagon-specific springs that are on japanparts? Your tire size of 245/45R19 runs appx 27.7" (inch) in diameter. I honestly think you can fit that +30 and +42 offset rim/tire combo on the car. We are running 235/55R17, appx 27.2" in diameter, on an (overall) +38 offset wheel setup on our wagon with no rubbing. If it helps, I can try to measure out the fender/tire gaps, etc. on our setup to find out exactly how much extra space we have. We are able to set rear camber at -0.5* while maintaining zero toe. I'd skip the camber bushings--installation is tedious. Tophat spacers are somewhat of a bandage solution. I'd also consider that a last resort. Here's the best pic I can find to illustrate the fender spacing...with bonus wife cameo! We're all here to help, keep up the great work!

Very nice pics, thank you for the quick look and writeup. It will definitely help me down the road!

It's firm, and I can imagine it being harsh with 18"+ rims and anything less than 50 profile tires. For my setup with 17" rims and 55 profile tires, it's not harsh at all. At speed (65-75 mph), it handles smooth surfaces with large dips and bumps very nicely, but going lower speeds (~25-40 mph) over potholes, cracks, and uneven pavement, you'll definitely not be able to sip your hot morning latte very easily.

Alignment update April 15. Requested -1.5 up front and -1.0 rear. Looks like they were able to reduce rear negative camber without additional adjustable hardware. Previous tech wasn't able to do so. Still, I'm not clear about what they mean by "rear camber set to -1.0 before lifting front end". Here's the hardware we're working with: OEM Outback toe arms (non-adjustable) SPC 67660 Lower control arms (rear) OEM Legacy Upper control arms (rear) http://i.imgur.com/cCGCKFf.jpg

It's fun to bump 2 year old threads! I think that my curiosity dictates I will always be messing with the suspension geometry, brakes, and tires (long before ever thinking about increasing engine power). Not long after installing the struts/springs and upper control arms, I threw on ISC 15mm spacers on all 4 corners to completely eliminate any potential rubbing on the front strut seat. Here's how we stand. The tires: Kumho 4X 235/55R17; 27.2" overall nominal(?) diameter; tire load index remains the same as stock, at 99. I run 10% higher pressure than the door-card prescribed 32/31psi. The springs: STI Pink springs for BR 6MT touring wagon; 15 mm (~.60") drop vs. stock Legacy. The dampers: GTworx by Bilstein. Biggest unknown. Works great so far, but I have nothing technical to reference with respect to these dampers. The wheels and clearance: ISC 15mm spacers; fit is great under the oem WRX 17" rims without needing to replace wheel hub bolts. Those wheels have pockets for the protruding wheel bolts. Anti-Sway and components: Stock front, which should be 26mm. STI OEM rear, 20mm. Geometry: 235/55/17 mounted on 17"x8" wheels +53 offset. Effective offset is +38 after wheel spacers. Alignment: Need to increase negative camber in front, and less on rear. Thinking of trying out -1.5 fronts (MacPherson setup tendencies), and -1.0 rear (multi-link). To achieve these numbers, I'll need to install either the adjustable toe bushing (came with the SPC lower control arm) or get the SPC 67655 adjustable toe arm. Of course, I want others to be able to drive the car without accidentally inducing oversteer, so I'll be making small, conservative adjustments.

2005 ABP LGT Wagon, modded grille, spotted from the 4 east to 680 south ramp. Doubt you're on this board, you drove like a reckless child. You prairie dogged all over the single-lane on-ramp, trying to get around the line of cars in front of you. I was two cars in front of you, and drove evasively on the 680 south to not get hit by you and your lane weaving. You exited at Sun Valley mall at 1:58 PM in the exit only lane, with your left blinker stuck on. Probably rushing to get to your retail job shift, but damn, simmer down the crazy. I was in the silver outback.

Prioritizing zero toe and zero cross camber. Need at least a camber kit for any hope of adjusting the rear beyond what it's at now. Tech even attempted the good ole loosen/wiggle the knuckle technique for the rear camber. Nonetheless, drives solid and tracks on the highway quite nicely. Tested before and after on Mt. Madonna portion of the 152. Got tailed by a newer black jetta on straights, and left him behind at every corner. of course, one of his headlight bulbs was out.

At the end of the day, this setup is definitely doable. Haven't gotten an alignment yet, but here are some quick shots I took earlier of the drop one can expect from this setup. About two fingers of clearance all around. That being said, I'll try to keep this thread technical, since it lives in the technical section..

So! Ran into a few small snafus with the install, but after taking it apart and reassembling multiple times with help from father in law and from a longtime good friend, I now feel comfortable doing this with my eyes closed. Wouldn't trade the experience for anything. For some perspective/context, this is on a: 2012 Outback 2.5i, 6mt Wheels are from a 2011 WRX, 17x8 +53 dimensions Tires are Kumho Ectsta 4x, 235/55R17, about two years old, 18k miles on them Suspension is stock everywhere except for a 20mm rear anti-sway bar and rear upper control arms from the same year Legacy Setup has settled for one week now, and have driven about 350 miles on it Clearance was very tight. Had slight rubbing on the front lower spring perchs. Removed, reassembled, and adjusted camber bolt for less negative, and we're now clear. First impressions: beefy tires are your friend. In brief, this combo/setup is compliant, but very assertive. I'll be measuring ride height on all corners this weekend and get some pics for your viewing pleasure. Measuring ride height because I'm slightly wary about one of the rear struts that caused us problems during install.

Yup, for BM/BR, 2010-2014. The rears I got are supposedly wagon-specific. Not for our 05, which has been running a koni/epic springs setup for a good number of years now. My expectations are that it'll bring our OB down a ton, but from a legacy ride height baseline, I'm thinking at least 15 mm in the front, and less than 15 mm in the rear. I'll use the circlips to address rear sag. I'll take before/after pics. I heard this setup has been done before, but I've yet to find any documentation...

Woohoo. Installed 20mm RSB and bushings in about 20 minutes. Haven't test driven yet. I should find a shop for the rest of the suspension stuff and alignment. Any suggestions? Thinking of taking it to M___ Eng_____ing in Santa Clara. A bit far away and seems slightly pricey though.

Wow way out in Brentwood huh. I will have a shop take care of the install and alignment. Legacy UCA, upper spring seats for front, 20mm OEM sway and bushings, and misc things should arrive this coming Friday.

Thanks for the tip! I work in downtown SF. Do you also live in WC or is it just for work? We don't have a garage, unfortunately, so that's the primary reason why I'm spending so much time getting all my pieces together.

Yup, a nice set-up he has there. I've seen it, and it looks like he went the coilover route. I wanted to avoid coilovers as much as possible. I can't tell what supporting suspension geometry modifications he added aside from the Legacy LCA. Some other people have gone with Legacy UCA instead. I'm starting to wonder -- why not both?

Finally got it to come loose today using some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil and exercising lots of patience. Here's one to small victories! Per mea902's clarification (thanks!), I've added some Legacy front upper spring seats to my shopping list. Officially called a Coil Spring Insulator, Part Number: 20323AG00B. Getting two. Since I'm not really looking for -2.0 or more of negative camber, I'm hoping the rears will be addressed through the SPC pieces (lower control arm and toe arm). Anyone have ideas for front? Whiteline KCA335? Camber bolts? The service manual seems to suggest that the front is much more adjustable from factory, but I'm skeptical it will be enough to compensate for the drop. Brainstorm time.